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What should I ask my painter?

rv8ch

Well Known Member
Patron
I've chosen a reputable aircraft paint shop, and I'm looking for any advice you might have about what I should check, confirm, get in writing, think about, etc to avoid any issues. First time I've contracted to get an aircraft painted.

I'll have to deliver my RV8 in parts using a trailer or flatbed, if this changes anything.

Thanks!
 
Paint jobs are expensive, so everything should be in writing, including:
Prep work. What kind of surface prep will he do? Alodine? Will he fix minor dings? How many (it's common to see 'up to 5 hours of labor' or similar restriction).
Primer and paint brand and type, colors. Make sure there's a drawing if any stripes, etc., are involved.
Who will re-assemble?
Completion date. It's very common to see an estimated date, but, imho, you should agree on an absolute date, and what happens if it's not done by then. You don't want to rush a painter, but you don' t want him holding your airplane forever, should someone get sick, or a major lucrative job come his way.
Warantee or other guarantee: in writing.
 
General Questions

Here are my questions, but no experience with what is normally done and if it is itemized in the price.

I am particular about the "bodywork" aspect of the fiberglass to ensure that there are smooth contours, even gaps, and even repair of poor work on my part that shows up when wet block sanded.

Will they let overspray handle the ribs and spars that will show through gaps?

Who will handle rebalance of the elevators etc?

Will flap skuff tape be painted around or replaced?

Is wing walk painted around or removed and reinstalled?

How is the paint plexiglass handled? Is the edge painted over or stop with aluminum?

Are pull rivets holes filled or not?
 
Paint Questions

After having one plane painted by a pro and painting a second myself I would ask:

1. What kind of paint? Urethane? Aero or Auto? Single stage or Basecoat/Clear coat?
2. What kind of primer? Urethane? Epoxy? Chromate? Sandable?
3. Any prep work? Write down major things.
4. Any buffing?
5. What will you do about drips? Dry spots? Unclear edges?

Answers should be:
1. One manufacturer's system of paint.
2. Primer to be part of the system and should include 2 kinds. First a mechanical bond primer and then a sandable primer
3. Should be some prep filling. Just note it.
4. Some buffing where paint needed repair or shinning up
5. Cut n buff drips and imperfections

Have Fun
 
Ask the bottom line questions

It's like going into the Verizon/AT&T/Sprint store. How much will MY BILL be when I walk out the door?
 
Great tips!

Thanks guys for the tips. It will be a couple of weeks before I haul the RV8 down there - need to finish my wingtips, which means putting the wings back on - will be a tight squeeze in the garage.
 
Whatever you do end up with, if you have a QB kit, make sure once it is painted and cured you get some ACF50 or Corrosion X into as many places as you can.

The factory wash primer is definitely not enough and we are seeing too many examples of lap joint tin worm on QB structures after a couple of years.
 
The factory wash primer is definitely not enough and we are seeing too many examples of lap joint tin worm on QB structures after a couple of years.

@mike this is really an alarming post to a QB builder. For clarification, who is "we" and how many examples did they find and can you provide some details? Thanks for any additional info.
 
We have had problems on ours which resulted in us re painting the whole airframe after 5 years. Initially along seams on the wings - particularly behind the tanks where internal condensation is greatest. Then on ailerons and finally on the fuselage lap joints behind the canopy. The empennage is as good as new....:rolleyes: The aeroplane was finished in Mipa 2k auto paint (German), etch primed, base primed and top coated. It was a reasonable coat but not as heavy as I have seen on some aeroplanes. Personally, I would have tackled the local areas, but I was overruled by the group and one member volunteered to strip the aeroplane and had access to a professional car shop at a very advantageous price :D

I have seen maybe 5 or 6 cases in the UK where tin worm is starting from lap joints.

That said, all kits are different and are prepped differently.

What I am saying is the problem is coming from within the structure, not from without because the tracks start at the joint and work outwards. Those who have taken the time to fully prime mating surfaces on slow build kits will probably not be affected as we have seen on our empennage.

It isn't going to happen to all, it isn't going to particularly affect amateur painted aeroplanes, but the evidence is there. I think a relatively inexpensive application of a suitable spray corrosion inhibiter should stop it completely.

Location will be bound to affect it - we are in a warm, cold damp ish environment away from the coast but we get big temperature changes in the hangar and see condensation a lot.

Don't panic, but awareness will always help prevent an occurence and after all, we love our aeroplanes and want them to last a long time.

Our RV14 is a slow build kit and is getting fully primed on mating surfaces. It will also be sprayed with ACF50 on completion.
 
I presume Tin Worm corrosion is the UK term for Filiform Corrosion? :)

fili-3.jpg


Is that the case?
 
Whatever you do end up with, if you have a QB kit, make sure once it is painted and cured you get some ACF50 or Corrosion X into as many places as you can.

The factory wash primer is definitely not enough and we are seeing too many examples of lap joint tin worm on QB structures after a couple of years.
The paint job on my 7A which was from a quick build kit was like new after 8 years. The only paint issues I had was some minor chip on the wheel pants from rain.
 
Another thing to look for on a QB is what ever oil base stuff they put on these things for corrosion prevention for the boat ride back needs to be cleaned out of every lap joint. I discovered this after my first primer coat, the wings were mechanical scrubbed with maroon scotchbrite and dawn soap-water mix, water rinse, grease and wax remover and that was not enough, I went back and used brake clean followed with compressed air at all the lap joints and started all over. Also ask what length of time each piece of aluminum will see from prep to primer, corrosion starts in a few hours and will cause adhesion problems. I also did the green lock tite trick on the tank rivets and pulled a vacuum, been painted 4 years now, so far so good!
 
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