What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

New Builder and Trailing Edge Question

PatrickN

Member
Hello All,
I'm a new RV-14 builder - yes, no 'A' and little wheel in back :). I am working on the rudder and have a question for the community. Sorry if this was answered, but I couldn't find any information from searching.

On page 07-09 - steps 1 and 2, the instructions say to use adhesive to bond the trailing edge. However, on page 07-10 - step 2, the instructions say "The trailing edge will have to peeled slightly ...". I was planning to use the 3M F9460PC VHB tape as specified in section 5. Looks like the 3M tape is a permanent bond, so why would we bond the trailing edge, then attempt to peel it apart again? Won't peeling the edge apart potentially damage the skins? Has anyone used the 3M tape for the trailing edge? Looks like Van's used to recommend using fuel tank sealant.
Thanks!
 
This is an error that has been noted previously but I guess not yet corrected.

The intent is that you bond the T.E. to the right skin, and then add the VHB tape to the left skin but do not pull the backing off.
Then follow the steps regarding rolling back the skin to rivet the stiffeners.

Once finished, you carefully pull the backing from the second piece of tape and allow the left skin to contact the tape.
 
I had very good results using the VHB tape on my -9 rudder trailing edge. I bought a ~ 4' piece of aluminum angle from Aviation Depot. This angle was mounted on the front of my work bench, flush with the bench top. Then drill / cleco the skins / wedge to it. Tape goes on, one side at a time, using the "peel back" method Scott describes.

I'm not sure what the -14 manual has in it, but I believe the above is a the recommended / common approach to these types of TEs.

Take your time with it.
 
If you can get away with it, a granite counter top in the kitchen makes a great flat surface for making very straight trailing edges. Home politics is the builder?s responsibility :)
 
If you can get away with it, a granite counter top in the kitchen makes a great flat surface for making very straight trailing edges. Home politics is the builder?s responsibility :)

I used two pieces of 2?x2?x1/8? steel angle, the angle surface covered with a piece of packing tape. I also used a 3M two part epoxy instead of pro-seal, but pro seal is fine as well.

One angle hanging over the table edge, the control surface edge on the table and wood shims under the rest of it to keep it at the same height of the trailing edge. Epoxy and a cleko in every hole, then the second piece of angle on top of the control surface just on the other side of the clekoes.

This worked well for the RV-10 and RV-14 control surface trailing edges. They all came out straight as an arrow.

Carl
 
I'm at the exact same step as you are Patrick. I got a 5 ft. long 1 x 2 x 0.10 steel rectangular tube to hold the edge straight, but I'm a little unsure as to exactly how to use it. This weekend will be spent reviewing Section 5 in detail before I proceed. I'm a little nervous about messing this up.

Good luck on your trailing edge.
 
Our method was to use proseal on the trailing edge and cleco it together to bond. We peeled the skin back for the rivets then re-clecoed it. A few days later, we set the rivets. It turned out nearly perfect. There is more than one right way. Definitely read ahead as you are obviously doing. Sometimes you can save a ton of hassle by doing things out of order. Especially if you are priming parts before assembly.
 
Back
Top