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Another new oil filter

Tony_T

Tony_T

Well Known Member
Patron
Rotax has a new oil filter part number 825 016. The previous one was 825 012. There was also one before the 825 012 that came on my new engine in 2010. The original one could be pre-loaded with oil whereas the 825 012 cannot. Now the latest 825 016 I found can be pre-loaded again. This newest one is made in Italy and it has a green gasket. The 825 012 that I just removed for an oil change has a black gasket and is made in Austria. The new one is very slightly longer.
The latest one now has 8 flutes and the 825 012 had 14 flutes, if that matters to anyone. I still had my original 8 flute cup type tool and it fits the new filter. I never found a cup tool with 14 flutes and so used a band tool for those filters.
i-4ZjdVM4-L.jpg


Anyway, this is a lot of words for a mundane subject, I guess I'm kinda an oil filter nut...:eek:
 
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Explain how you pre-load the oil and it doesn't run out when you turn it sideways to install...
 
Piper J3 said:
Explain how you pre-load the oil and it doesn't run out when you turn it sideways to install...
Click to expand...

I fill it about 80% full, letting the oil settle into the filter materials. Hold a blue shop rag under the mount and quickly turn it up and screw it on. You don't lose much oil at all. Works for me and I'm clumsy. Try it :)
 
Tony_T said:
I fill it about 80% full, letting the oil settle into the filter materials. Hold a blue shop rag under the mount and quickly turn it up and screw it on. You don't lose much oil at all. Works for me and I'm clumsy. Try it :)
Click to expand...

Maybe I'm missing something - why do you say the 825 012 can't be preloaded with oil. What would the difference be?
 
Piper J3 said:
Maybe I'm missing something - why do you say the 825 012 can't be preloaded with oil. What would the difference be?
Click to expand...

The 825 012 won't accept much oil poured into the center hole, maybe a small amount, but not enough to pre-load the filter. The internal structure is different. You can see they are different internally just by looking into them.
i-KvPC2jR-L.jpg

I'm going to cut my just removed 012 tomorrow for inspection. I'll photograph the internals.
 
The old filter that was replaced this year 825-012 had a check valve inside and could not be pre-filled. This newer filter 825-016 does not have the check valve and can now be pre-filled and it should. You can top it off 3-4 times and it will not spill out while screwing it on. Before you start the oil change procedure go ahead and fill the filter. It will soak into the filter media and out into the hollow canister.
Just a side note*
I have seen many filters lately over tightened. When the filter is over tightened it pulls the plate with the holes in it forward from all the torque and that causes the inner failure of the filter and by-pass spring. Remember to put it on until it touches. I know this is a little subjective. Then tighten 270 degrees or 3/4 turn. The filter will get tighter while in use. Do not use the jawed type pliers on the canister. Only use them to grab the metal ring at the base. You can easily punch a hole in the canister with these. Strap wrench's are okay, but hard to get in tighter spaces and harder to use for overly tight filters. The best wrench on the market right now is that new stainless one that the service centers offer. It is perfect in tight areas, takes the most over tightened filter off easily and will not damage or crush the canister. It's somewhere around $25.
 
Jolly said:
The old filter that was replaced this year 825-012 had a check valve inside and could not be pre-filled. This newer filter 825-016 does not have the check valve and can now be pre-filled and it should. You can top it off 3-4 times and it will not spill out while screwing it on. Before you start the oil change procedure go ahead and fill the filter. It will soak into the filter media and out into the hollow canister.
Just a side note*
I have seen many filters lately over tightened. When the filter is over tightened it pulls the plate with the holes in it forward from all the torque and that causes the inner failure of the filter and by-pass spring. Remember to put it on until it touches. I know this is a little subjective. Then tighten 270 degrees or 3/4 turn. The filter will get tighter while in use. Do not use the jawed type pliers on the canister. Only use them to grab the metal ring at the base. You can easily punch a hole in the canister with these. Strap wrench's are okay, but hard to get in tighter spaces and harder to use for overly tight filters. The best wrench on the market right now is that new stainless one that the service centers offer. It is perfect in tight areas, takes the most over tightened filter off easily and will not damage or crush the canister. It's somewhere around $25.
Click to expand...
Jolly,

Do you have any of those new wrenches for sale?
If so, I?d be interested in purchasing one. Please provide price (including shipping) and ordering address.

Thank you for the information. You are a great resource here.
 
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