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  #51  
Old 11-17-2019, 01:08 PM
lon@carolon.net lon@carolon.net is offline
 
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Location: Santa Monica, California
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Tony,

Thanks for this. Two questions:

1. Is D-Sub pin 13 now an open unused pin, or would the new fuse wire share that pin with another wire that's already attached?

2. In your photo, it looks as though the Ignition Harness is routed through a black tube, just below the red shrink wrap, and that the black tube is much narrower than the D-Sub. If so, how would I get the Harness out of the plane and then back in again. Or is the "tube" actually part of the D-Sub itself, so that once I get access to it, I'll be able to take it out without passing it through anything?
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  #52  
Old 11-17-2019, 01:57 PM
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Tony_T Tony_T is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lon@carolon.net View Post
Tony,

Thanks for this. Two questions:

1. Is D-Sub pin 13 now an open unused pin, or would the new fuse wire share that pin with another wire that's already attached?

2. In your photo, it looks as though the Ignition Harness is routed through a black tube, just below the red shrink wrap, and that the black tube is much narrower than the D-Sub. If so, how would I get the Harness out of the plane and then back in again. Or is the "tube" actually part of the D-Sub itself, so that once I get access to it, I'll be able to take it out without passing it through anything?
1. Pin 13 is a used pin. It is the connection that carries the voltage from the 1 amp fuse (that burned out) to the Master Switch. When the master is ON that voltage then goes out through Pin 14 to the VR sense wire. Pin 13 has a white/yellow wire. The new fuse wire could be spliced to that wire and the D-Sub's at either end of the harness would not need to be disassembled.


If I were doing this I would disconnect the battery first. Use a ohmmeter to check continuity from the new fuse wire to pin 13 and also pin 13 to pin 13 on each end of the harness. The pin numbers can be read on the end of the connector but they are really small. Be careful reinstalling D-Subs so as to not bend any pins.

2. There is no black tube, just a D-Sub connector at each end of the short WH-00030 harness. The red shrink wrap just goes into the D-Sub.

P.S. If you are new to this it would be good to review Section 5-21 (Electrical) of the KAI which is downloadable from Van's website.
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Last edited by Tony_T : 11-17-2019 at 02:11 PM. Reason: Additional info
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  #53  
Old 11-17-2019, 02:31 PM
lon@carolon.net lon@carolon.net is offline
 
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Tony,

Thank you again. Your posts make the procedure really clear.
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  #54  
Old 11-19-2019, 10:28 AM
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engineerofsorts engineerofsorts is offline
 
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Default My soldered-in fuse experience

On one of our student-built planes, the notorious fuse discussed above blew during flight, such that the amps display went negative. We diagnosed the root cause and did the work around of tying the C input to the battery, sacrificing the master switch light function in the process. Several months later, the main battery voltage and amperage displayed on the Garmin G3x went non-functional. This was traced to yet another blown soldered in fuse in the AMPS A or AMPS B signal on the same AV-5001 module. This motivated us to replace all three soldered-in fuses on the board with small ATM fuses placed on the edge of the card for easier replacement if any were to blow again. We did not un-do the workaround--kept the C input jumpered to the battery--this jumpering is the preferred wiring in the Rotax engine manuals, and we didn't want the voltage regulator going non-functional if the fuse ever blew again.
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  #55  
Old 11-19-2019, 11:35 AM
lon@carolon.net lon@carolon.net is offline
 
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Location: Santa Monica, California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by engineerofsorts View Post
On one of our student-built planes, the notorious fuse discussed above blew during flight, such that the amps display went negative. We diagnosed the root cause and did the work around of tying the C input to the battery, sacrificing the master switch light function in the process. Several months later, the main battery voltage and amperage displayed on the Garmin G3x went non-functional. This was traced to yet another blown soldered in fuse in the AMPS A or AMPS B signal on the same AV-5001 module. This motivated us to replace all three soldered-in fuses on the board with small ATM fuses placed on the edge of the card for easier replacement if any were to blow again. We did not un-do the workaround--kept the C input jumpered to the battery--this jumpering is the preferred wiring in the Rotax engine manuals, and we didn't want the voltage regulator going non-functional if the fuse ever blew again.
Did you, by any chance, take photos of the board after you installed ATM fuses on its edge? If you did, I'd love to see them.
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