Mike S
Senior Curmudgeon
My buddies -10 nosewheel got real loose after only 35 hours. Apparently this in not unusual for the -10, as he has at least one other friend with the same problem.
Upon taking it apart, the wear showed up in two places------between the fork and the spacer, and between the spacer and the bearing race. The spacer is actually starting to round over and match the radius of the bearing race.
[img=http://aycu04.webshots.com/image/15883/2005030809895304923_th.jpg]
After a lot of head scratching we determined that the main problem is the contact area---actually the lack of contact area----between the spacer, and the race. In addition, the rubber facing on the seal contributes to a lousy contact when considered in the context of setting, and maintaining a correct bearing preload/clearance. The main cause of a lack of contact area is the radius in the bearing race, where it contacts the spacer. Notice the contact area in the old bearing, compared to the bearing in the new wheel.
After a lot of phone calls, Steve finally decided to switch to a Grove wheel, and make a couple of modifications to the Stock Vans setup, as shown below.
The flats machined on the spacers are for anti-rotation, they mate up with a piece riveted onto the fork-------second photo shows this fairly well. In addition, the set screw locks the spacer to the inner "axle" piece, so there is no possibility of the parts turning inside the forks.
Due to the design of the -10, a screw through the fork, as in a previous thread, wont work -----------the spacer doesn't have the "mushroom" shape needed to give you a place to mount a screw. Besides, this way, there is no screw that needs to be removed to take out the wheel.
I hope this helps some of you out there, just showing one of many possible ways to skin this particular cat.
Mike
Upon taking it apart, the wear showed up in two places------between the fork and the spacer, and between the spacer and the bearing race. The spacer is actually starting to round over and match the radius of the bearing race.
[img=http://aycu04.webshots.com/image/15883/2005030809895304923_th.jpg]
After a lot of head scratching we determined that the main problem is the contact area---actually the lack of contact area----between the spacer, and the race. In addition, the rubber facing on the seal contributes to a lousy contact when considered in the context of setting, and maintaining a correct bearing preload/clearance. The main cause of a lack of contact area is the radius in the bearing race, where it contacts the spacer. Notice the contact area in the old bearing, compared to the bearing in the new wheel.
After a lot of phone calls, Steve finally decided to switch to a Grove wheel, and make a couple of modifications to the Stock Vans setup, as shown below.
The flats machined on the spacers are for anti-rotation, they mate up with a piece riveted onto the fork-------second photo shows this fairly well. In addition, the set screw locks the spacer to the inner "axle" piece, so there is no possibility of the parts turning inside the forks.
Due to the design of the -10, a screw through the fork, as in a previous thread, wont work -----------the spacer doesn't have the "mushroom" shape needed to give you a place to mount a screw. Besides, this way, there is no screw that needs to be removed to take out the wheel.
I hope this helps some of you out there, just showing one of many possible ways to skin this particular cat.
Mike
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