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What color should I paint my engine?

Mark Burns

Mark Burns

Well Known Member
I'm about ready to assemble my 0-360-A1D and I'm having trouble deciding on a paint color. Any suggestions? Photos?

Thanks,
Mark
 
Paint it light

Paint it a light color so you can easily see oil weeps and cracks in castings. Also, with the cowl on, when you shine your little flashlight in there, the light won't be eaten by the dark colors...it'll bounce around a little. JMHO
 
Probably No help here

Mark Burns said:
I'm about ready to assemble my 0-360-A1D and I'm having trouble deciding on a paint color. Any suggestions? Photos?

Thanks,
Mark
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I about drove myself crazy over this when I ordered my TMX-IO360. I went down and looked at color charts at the paint store and all that. Finally I just asked 'em to paint it whatever their standard RED GOLD package scheme is. If I had previously settled on an exterior color scheme I'd probably have color coordinated it. Problem is, all you guys keep coming up with all these really cool paint jobs and I keep changing my mind. I may have to just go with polished aluminum!

BTW the engine came "Corvette Red" with white valve covers. Maybe I'll paint the plane red to match the engine?

I would suggest painting the engine a color that will allow oil leaks to show up easily, though.

 
Alodine

Mark Burns said:
I'm about ready to assemble my 0-360-A1D and I'm having trouble deciding on a paint color. Any suggestions? Photos?

Thanks,
Mark
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Click to expand...

My Vote is to leave it ALODINE Treated on all of the Aluminum parts for better heat transfer and lightly paint the steel cylinders with High Temp Flat Black paint or better yet get the cylinders coated with Black Heat Dispersant coating. Forget about what it looks like and go for the cooling benifits.

Paint is like putting insulation between the walls of your house to prevent the heat or cold from coming into or out your home.

I don't want to hurt anyones feelings, but these are AIR COOLED engines and not Show Cars with water flowing in and out of the block and heads. :eek:



Think of your Cylinders / Heads as the same. The case I feel can be painted and it'll look pretty.
 
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Someone on here once said that anything painted will eventually need to be repainted. I say paint on an alodined aluminum engine is a giant waste of money and time. It's a motor, not a dang Easter egg!
 
Bob Brown said:
Paint it a light color so you can easily see oil weeps and cracks in castings. Also, with the cowl on, when you shine your little flashlight in there, the light won't be eaten by the dark colors...it'll bounce around a little. JMHO
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I spoke to Bart at Aerosport about this. He said the colour doesn't matter for picking up oil leaks. If you have clean oil (and you WILL have clean oil I hope) it is very difficult to pick up minor oil weeping on any colour. The answer is to pass an ultraviolet light over the engine. It shows up the oil well on any colour...and may in fact show it up better on darker colours.

As for the theory about paint insulating the cooling fins. I'm not sure that there's much merit in that argument. Builders wanting to learn more about this might like to read the following which suggests that painting an engine may actually increase cooling efficiency.

http://www.sacskyranch.com/paint.htm
 
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Thanks for the input guys

I still haven't decided but when I get it painted I'll post a photo here.

zilik, It definately won't be pink however.

Alan, I can't alodine it beacause I was only able to get about 98% of the old black paint off. It's in the pores of the casting. It was some kind of epoxy paint I thnk. I really don't want to bead blast the case halves.

Thanks,
Mark
 
Engine paint ?

If you want to impress most people, paint and chrome away.
If you want to impress those that know, then keep away from polishing your engine. That is the worst in terms of heat transfer.

A natural alloy finish is good, but a THIN coat of a dark color , preferably black will enhance the engine's ability to transfer heat to the passing air.
This was proven back in the 1930's

Martin in Oz
 
Harvey said:
If you want to impress most people, paint and chrome away.
If you want to impress those that know, then keep away from polishing your engine. That is the worst in terms of heat transfer.

A natural alloy finish is good, but a THIN coat of a dark color , preferably black will enhance the engine's ability to transfer heat to the passing air.
This was proven back in the 1930's

Martin in Oz
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Martin me mate, sorry to do this to you....but

For absolute best cooling efficiency the best reciprocating engine colour is...wait for it....white!!!

Black is not optimum because black has high emissivity but low reflectivity.

Natural alloy is not optimum because it has high reflectivity but low emissivity.

White has both high emissivity and high reflectivity.

The reason white has the same emissivity as black on engines is because most of the heat emitted by an engine is in the invisible infrared portion of the spectrum....and ANY colour that uses non-metallic pigments IS black in the infrared spectrum (including white).
 
We went with gold, new Lexus color :cool: which seemed like a very appropriate color choice after writing the check....nobody would ever confuse the dollar amount and the description in the register for a "Gold Engine" for that price it shoulda been gold!! :p
 
Captain Avgas said:
The reason white has the same emissivity as black on engines is because most of the heat emitted by an engine is in the invisible infrared portion of the spectrum....and ANY colour that uses non-metallic pigments IS black in the infrared spectrum (including white).
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Isn't most white paint pigmented with titanium, which is metallic?
 
Low temperature latex and oil-base paints are, yes - but most high-temperature epoxy-style paints like would be commonly used for engine paint are made exclusively with organic pigments.
 
OK, I can't wait !

I said I would post a photo of my engine once I had it painted.

I painted the first pieces last night. It's hard to tell what color I chose :D

More later!

engine41207004sciq4.jpg
 
Those reds and gold are real purdy!! but flat black will be your best energy emittor (blackbody radiator). Semi-gloss Lycoming gray is a decent compromise for cleanability and darkness, IMO. The rattle spray cans work very well, actually. Drys fast and hard.

2 cents
 
airguy said:
Low temperature latex and oil-base paints are, yes - but most high-temperature epoxy-style paints like would be commonly used for engine paint are made exclusively with organic pigments.
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I have frequently been told by what I thought to be reliable sources that there are no organic white pigments. Can you give me an example of one? I've got a can of white epoxy primer in front of me that contains titanium dioxide.
 
szicree said:
I have frequently been told by what I thought to be reliable sources that there are no organic white pigments. Can you give me an example of one? I've got a can of white epoxy primer in front of me that contains titanium dioxide.
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We're getting way off track here...however.

The white pigment titanium dioxide (TiO2) is not a metal....it's a white powder. In fact virtually EVERY tin of paint you buy, regardless of colour, contains titanium dioxide (I exclude black here because black is not a "colour"). Titanium dioxide white pigment is added to the colour mix to make it opaque. Red, blue, yellow, grey, pink.....they all contain white pigment and that pigment is almost certain to be titanium dioxide.

Incidentally TiO2 is also commonly used in sunscreens and, believe it or not, it is a very common food additive (it's used a lot in dairy based drinks).
 
Captain Avgas said:
We're getting way off track here...however.

The white pigment titanium dioxide (TiO2) is not a metal....it's a white powder.
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Yes we are, but how can it contain the metallic element titanium and not be metal?? Because it's white? I am so confused now.
 
Looks Great!

Rivethead,

Your engine looks great. I like the Gold and Grey.

I'm thinking of painting my cylinders black, with red rocker box covers and pushrod tubes.

I like to see others overhauling also! It takes a lot of time but it's fun!

Mark
 
More important than COLOR

Consider leaving the heads bare and the jugs black. However I highly suggest getting the Sacramento Sky Ranch Engineering manual for Lycs and Conts. It has a part about painting. They suggest you bake the paint on. I guess with some modern epoxies baking is not needed? A rattle can is probably not ideal?

With that said, PREP is so critical.
 
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They suggest you bake the paint on. I guess with some modern epoxies may be this is not needed? A rattle can is probably not ideal?
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Seven years ago my O-320 case (it was very clean after returning from the crankcase overhaul facility and being alodined or whatever it is they do to the cases) was painted with Chevy Red engine enamel from an aerosol PlasiKote can. The paint has held up beautifully with no chipping or peeling over the course of 650 hours.
 
Masking?

Mark Burns said:
I said I would post a photo of my engine once I had it painted.

I painted the first pieces last night. It's hard to tell what color I chose :D

More later!

engine41207004sciq4.jpg
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Mark... are the holes for the Accessory Case mounting bolts meant to be painted or masked?

I thought the convention was not to paint anywhere a bolt or nut goes, but haven't seen a specific document stating the standards.

Can one of our professional engine builders help here?

gil in Tucson
 
Paint at contact points of bolts and nuts.

az_gila said:
Mark... are the holes for the Accessory Case mounting bolts meant to be painted or masked?

gil in Tucson
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From what I've learned, read, done, been taught, please do not paint any area where there is a nut, bolt, washer, etc in contact with the surface of the metal...

Very critical on the cylinder/case through bolts where torque of the bolts can be lost after time with the paint under the bolt head, nuts, etc.
MEK on a Q-tip to remove the paint in this area would be best to not loose torque on the bolts.

Depends on how much paint was applied, overspray I see no problem, but if the paint is several thousands of an inch thick, say .005", is not good.

Attention to detail whether painting or assembly is the key to a good leak proof engine and for longevity.

Just my opinion. :eek: BTW
 
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Paint at contact points of bolts and nuts.

Gil and Allen,

I agree with both of you. You can see that I did mask off the ones on the sump, but not the accessory case. I got lazy and tried to convince myself it wouldn't matter on these "low torque" bolts. It's a lot of trouble cutting those little circles out of masking tape!

Ok, I'll get the paint cleaned off of those areas and do better from now on. Thanks for pushing me to do it right.

Mark
 
Use washers or bolts

Mark Burns said:
Gil and Allen,

I agree with both of you. You can see that I did mask off the ones on the sump, but not the accessory case. I got lazy and tried to convince myself it wouldn't matter on these "low torque" bolts. It's a lot of trouble cutting those little circles out of masking tape!

Ok, I'll get the paint cleaned off of those areas and do better from now on. Thanks for pushing me to do it right.

Mark
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Hi Mark,
Heres a trick that I do and it's quick and easy with no masking tape. Any area that you would not like painted like a bolt hole, place a washer or a bolt in place then paint. The accessory case you painted looks awesome and love the color, red is my favorite, red means FAST :D
 
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szicree said:
Yes we are, but how can it contain the metallic element titanium and not be metal?? Because it's white? I am so confused now.
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Steve, when elements that have "metallic qualities" form chemical compounds with other elements the result is usually a non metallic substance. Examples are copper sulphate, zinc phosphate, silver nitrate.....and of course....titanium dioxide.
 
I don't know if this is overkill, just right or bad technique but before painting my engine I washed everything to be painted with MEK. Once that dried I masked all areas not to be painted then sprayed lightly with Zink chromate and allowed to dry over night. I then sprayed with enamel and baked the dry (once again over night) painted parts for 1.5 hours at 200 degrees. Painting really does add some time to an engine build.
 
Ferrari Yellow or Red.... RED my vote!!!

mark manda said:
72906468ve2.jpg


They have been painting FAST engines red for a long time. NOW, really fast engines are Ferrari Yellow!
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Hummmm,,, Ferrari RED my Vote!!! Picture 512 Ferrari, and Vette in my shop,,,,, Note my Lyco engine in the background, it is Alodined, Gold and Black with a touch of Ferrari Red for kicks and giggles. The Ferrari tops out at 198mph versus my RV-6 at well over this! :D Dang kids and the TOYS!!! Speed thing I guess, I love the Ferrari Yellow, but RED is still my favorite. :D :p

dsc04114dd2.jpg

dsc04098zp0.jpg

dsc04099yh6.jpg
 
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Ferrari yellow? It looks and awful lot like my Penske yellow. The cylinders were supposed to be Lycoming gray, an approximation of the silver of which part of the exterior will be. They gave me charcoal gray cylinders instead, now it looks like a bumble bee.

Engine02.jpg

RV10_Paint7.jpg
 
Ok, I'm getting there now!

Installed the cylinders today. Whew!
I've had a blast overhauling the engine but I've gotta say...I'm ready to get back to work on the airframe!

And, I've got to say thanks to Allen Barrett of Barret Precision Engines for taking the time to answer my questions.

engine5607069pf5.jpg
 
White engine case?

It's an old thread, but I'm interested if somebody has a engine case painted white? Or does anyone has objections to a white engine case?

From my point of view it would have several benefits:
- visibility of cracks
- visibility of oil (I think I would see even fresh oil better on a white casing than on a grey - without using UV light)
- heat transfer should not be too much affected (radiation of casing seems to be a minor contribution)

I'm just wondering why it's not used that much? Anybody out there with a white engine case?
 
paint

Summit Racing has POR engine enamel at $22 a pint. Bill Hirsch Automotive in Newark NJ area has their own brand engine enamel guaranteed to 700 degrees F. Around $35 a quart. I was going to use Imron until I checked the price, now I'm going to try Hirsch.
 
i saw a dvd by victor engine company who i believe is one of the top engine companies around. there data shows black is the best color for heat removal. never seen a white engine though, most seen to be gray, pick whatever floats your boat and be happy. the pink guys, we are wondering about you.
 
Engine paint

I love some of the red ones, looks great.
But for me, I like the Lycoming grey, when the front cylinders start to wear off some paint after a few hundred hours you can buy Lycoming grey in an spray can for tough up.
Bill Becker
 
Lyc must have a good reason for....

.... painting their engines grey...?

We hung the engine last week and I noticed that the grey colour looks and feels rather thin and kind of "rough"...?
(Engine was bought fram Vans in April this year)

Maybe this is so heat-dissipation increases? Anyone knows?


 
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So how many spray cans does it take to cover an engine and cylinders?

Anything wrong with using plain old Krylon Engine enamel, or does it have to be special aviation grade paint?
 
Just finishing an engine on a Cherokee.

One spray can will easily do the case, accessory case, sump, etc. My cylinders came back painted, and I'm not so sure I could have done all four with the remainder in the can - it would be close.

I used the Lyc gray from Aircraft Spruce - although I think you could use any high temp paint.

Dan
 
Fastener holes...

Easy hole masking tip, use the paper hole reinforcement stickys they sell at office supply stores. Makes it easy to mask off the holes for paint.
Tim
 
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