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Okay all you polish guru's...I have a question

cjensen

Well Known Member
Calling all polish guru's!! I have Nuvite F7, C, and S. Here's what my skins look like to start...I roughed up the rivet lines with maroon scotchbrite long ago because I thought I would paint.

5-16-09-002w.jpg


Here are several pics after two passes with F7...see the problem? These are all pics of the same spot...

5-16-09-003w.jpg


5-16-09-004w.jpg


5-16-09-005w.jpg


Close up...

5-16-09-006w.jpg


Nuvite sent me some sample sizes of other grades. The next course grade down from F7 is F9. So I tried that, and pretty much got the same result...

5-16-09-010w.jpg


Everything but the rivet lines looks fantastic so far...I need some help here because I really want to polish...:confused:
 
I had similar areas and what I found helped was to get to the point of wet sanding with 1500 grit sandpaper then use the F9 abrasive polish, then F6, then S. It really made a difference but I still cannot get it perfect.
 
That is the compound step...F7 and F9 with the compounding buffer-straight from the perfect polish website...
 
Last edited:
Chad,
I am certainly no guru, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn last night. :D
I just helped a friend polish a hummelbird. We had to wet sand the grain out of the aluminum (not alcad) and get rid of some deep scratches. Some of it we did rough up with some scotchbrite and in order to get it to polish, we had to sand the scratches out with 400, then 600, then 1500 then 2000 before it would polish. It was extremely labor intensive as you can imagine, but it did finally polish out.

I feel your pain, it is not fun.
 
Eventually it will come out but takes work. I did exactly the same dumb thing many years ago - scotchbrite rivet lines. It will come out.

Steve
 
Eventually it will come out but takes work. I did exactly the same dumb thing many years ago - scotchbrite rivet lines. It will come out.

Steve

Any thoughts on what grade to use? F7 over again several times?
 
Hate to have to tell you this Chad, but after two passes of F7 you are just getting started. 6 or 8 is usually a bare minumum, and 10 or 12 is closer to the mark.

Occasionally I have used coarser grades, but at this point I have pretty much settled on compounding with F7, cyclo'ing with F7, and finishing with S on the cyclo. I pretty much don't use anything else, and even after the F7 cyclo the finish is pretty good.

The plane Grady just finished on Friday is mine.

Pat
 
Hate to have to tell you this Chad, but after two passes of F7 you are just getting started. 6 or 8 is usually a bare minumum, and 10 or 12 is closer to the mark.

Occasionally I have used coarser grades, but at this point I have pretty much settled on compounding with F7, cyclo'ing with F7, and finishing with S on the cyclo. I pretty much don't use anything else, and even after the F7 cyclo the finish is pretty good.

The plane Grady just finished on Friday is mine.

Pat

This is great info Pat!! Being that this was my very first shot at this, I was worried that this wouldn't come out. I'll give it another 4 or five passes with F7 and go from there.

How much are you using? I'm putting about a fingertip's worth on each side of the pad, then smearing over the area, then an inch per second at 1650 rpm. Haven't run the cyclo over it yet...

Also, how often are you reapplying? After each section? Every two sections? I've just about memorized the info on the Nuvite website, but first hand info is always best!

:cool:
 
Chad,

When I compound, I apply the F7 directly to the aluminum. Just a dot of polish every two or three inches over an area of a foot square or so. A quick pass with the buffing wheel should make the area a more or less uniform gray. Then, if you have just the right amount of polish, a one inch per second pass should result in a mirror look just at the center of then pass, with lots of gray on each side of the centerline. I then keep working on the area until all of the gray is gone. Then fluff the wheel with a cleaning spur. If I am satisfied with the area, I can now move on to a new section, but I will keep working the same area for a considerable amount of time on the first polishing of that section.

A couple of important points I have learned: Slow the buffer way down. If you think it is turning a little too slowly, halve the speed and you should be about right. Second, try to have several buffing wheels. They work much better when they are fluffed up, and after about an hours work I find I can't keep it fluffed even with a cleaning spur any more. With three buffing wheels, that means I can work for about three hours on compounding, which is a pretty good session.

Don't try to simply apply anyone else's techniques without any deviation. Experiment a little, because everybody has thier own little tricks, and sometimes what works well on one piece of metal does not work as well on a different one. Find out what works best for you on the part you are polishing.

Pat
 
I agree with Pat.

Be very careful about how much polish you use, too much and it just won't cut. F7 many times. I don't use sandpaper at all, just re work it with slow buffer until it comes out, it will. Also on final use cyclo with S using their flannel cloths. If you use micro fiber, you will have small scratches. The flannel cloths are very important to the finish. After I have cycloed an area where I think it looks good with S, I go back and wipe it with Minerial spirits, then buff again with cyclo & flannel. It turns black for about 30 seconds, then goes absolutely brilliant. Experiment, you'll be surprised at the result, but nothing happens fast. I polished my whole 6 top & bottom, it just takes many days (or weeks). Good Luck.
 
After another session this morning, I kinda am thinking that I'm not using enough polish...there is so much talk of using too much, that I think I'm shorting myself. If you are using a dot every two to three inches Pat, I'm definitely not using enough.

After 5 or 6 passes with F9 today, I still have this...the scratches are SUPER smooth, but still visible...

5-17-09-001w.jpg


I think next time I'll try F7 with more polish...I really hope I can get the scratches out...:(
 
Chad,

Try some G6 on the scratches. It will take them down pretty fast.
Don't use much and then the F7.

I have seen some deep scratches come out. Ones you can feel
with a fingernail.

Lookin good.

Boomer
 
I think next time I'll try F7 with more polish...I really hope I can get the scratches out...:(

Chad,

With F7 and the proper pad at the correct speed, you should be leaving plenty of swirls, but I don't see any. Here's what worked for me:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=90820

Run the buffer at 1000 rpm. Any faster and you'll heat/flash the polish.

With an EQ-143 backing plate and EQ-140 pads:

http://www.nuvitechemical.com/Products.asp?ProductID=16

Tony
 
Chad,

Try some G6 on the scratches. It will take them down pretty fast.
Don't use much and then the F7.

I have seen some deep scratches come out. Ones you can feel
with a fingernail.

Lookin good.

Boomer

Hmmm...I have some sample size G6, but didn't try it because according to Nuvite, F9 is courser and works for abrasive pad damage...

NuShine II Grades: NuShine II - S Final Finish -For the "Nuvite Look", Light Oxidation Removal, Polish Upkeep & Repolishing, Paint Finishing NuShine II - A Light Oxidation Removal, Polish Surface Reconditioning NuShine II - C Repolishing prep of already polished metal, Removal of Cloudy Look, Oxidation Removal NuShine II - G6 ?Smart Abrasive? - Quick Cut, Reduces to Fine Finish For Initial Polish of New Metals to Prep for Final Finish NuShine II - F7 Removing Light Corrosion, Blending Scratches & Pitting NuShine II - F9 Removing Serious Corrosion, Surface Blemishes, & Repairing Abrasive Pad Scratching in all metals. Also recommended for Prep of Non-Clad Aluminum Surfaces. * Specialty grades are available beyond those listed - Contact Nuvite for Information

Chad,

With F7 and the proper pad at the correct speed, you should be leaving plenty of swirls, but I don't see any. Here's what worked for me:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=90820

Run the buffer at 1000 rpm. Any faster and you'll heat/flash the polish.

With an EQ-143 backing plate and EQ-140 pads:

http://www.nuvitechemical.com/Products.asp?ProductID=16

Tony

I'll try a bit slower on mine...it runs a max of 1650, which is what I've been using. I have the EQ parts you mentioned...but probably need another pad for G6. You're right though, I don't have many swirls, but I'm also not getting the gray film like Pat is talking about...it goes on, turns black and disappears quickly. That's why I think I don't have enough polish...

I'll keep trying...:)
 
I'll try a bit slower on mine...it runs a max of 1650, which is what I've been using. I have the EQ parts you mentioned...but probably need another pad for G6. You're right though, I don't have many swirls, but I'm also not getting the gray film like Pat is talking about...it goes on, turns black and disappears quickly. That's why I think I don't have enough polish...

I'll keep trying...:)

If you can get a 12" x 24" area to turn black, then you have enough polish. It should stay black for one or two passes, then start to dissipate. If it stays black any longer than that, you used too much polish. Wipe most of it off with a rag and hit it with the buffer again. Be sure to slow it down to 1000 rpm max. And look for swirls.

Tony
 
Chad,

What Tony said will work.

I have never used the F9 so if it works, thats good. Try some G6 if
you can and see which one works the fastest.

If you get a glazed look you are going too fast and/or need a new
pad.

Keep polishing because you will like the look.

Boomer
 
Jumping in here...
What is the secret to getting the aluminum clean after polishing? I saw that mineral spirits were used. I tried wiping down with naptha and ended up with streaks.
 
Don,

As was mentioned earlier, you've got to experiment and find what works best for you. What worked for me was to use a Wen model 4000 4" orbital polisher for all the polishing with grade S Nuvite. Just couldn't make myself spend the big bucks for a Cyclo. Yellow flannel rags from Walmart or the local auto supply store were cut into 6" squares and attached to the Wen with a rubber band. When finished with the S grade, a pass with a clean flannel square took care of any remaining residue. To be sure there was none remaining, I went over the area by hand with a folded up microfiber towel. Then a bath with Nuvite Citricut (aircraft and operator). When you can see individual arm hairs, you're finished:

http://picasaweb.google.com/tonyboytoo/Sonex#5140822613545655346

Tony
 
Jumping in here...
What is the secret to getting the aluminum clean after polishing? I saw that mineral spirits were used. I tried wiping down with naptha and ended up with streaks.

On corporate aircraft we have always used baby powder or flour to remove the black residue after polishing. Dust it on and wipe off by hand with clean cloths. Works MUCH better than any liquid and besides with the powder it smells good. :D

Don
 
<snip>Just couldn't make myself spend the big bucks for a Cyclo.<snip>

Tony

Me either...but just a note to others...watch ebay well in advance of when you plan to start polishing (do a saved search on the bay). I grabbed (stole) this OLD Sears Roebuck polisher...EXACT same thing as the cyclo...for $25!!! And it works great!

4-30-09-007w.jpg


:cool:
 
Polish

Chad,

One of our Chapter members just ordered his 8 kit and was asking me about doing a polished finish instead of paint. I told him about you being in the process and he wondered about stopping out to see yours and talk to you about how difficult it is. I owe him an RV ride anyway so if you are around one day this week let me know. Thursday would work best for me but I am flexible.
 
Hey Pete!

We have our Chapter meeting this Thursday at 7pm, and we usually meet for dinner at 5:30 at CJ's...you guys are more than welcome to come down anytime! Thursday is fine if you can be down here around 4:45 or so. You're also welcome to stay for dinner and the meeting as my guest if you want! My hangar is across from the Chapter hangar, and there's plenty of room to park there. The program is a presentation on a Chapter member's Seawind...

Other than that, pretty much any evening is fine! Lemme know...

:cool:
 
Polish, me to!

I thought, gees..... East-block country, only just entered the European Union a couple years ago and now they are already called "guru's" ?
 
De Hammer has is on the final wipe off.
I use corn starch and a microfiber cloth and it works
great and there is no clouding or film left.

All the other chemicals, mineral,naptha, mek and others
will cloud the finish.

Polish ON !!!!!!!

Boomer
 
I have some polishing notes here:

http://blog.bowenaero.com/?p=25

Your first pass with grade C and hand drill should leave some real obvious swirls. I would think that first step would address those rivet lines.

Polishing is fun and rewarding, until you remember the underside of the plane needs to be done too! Ouch, my arms!!
 
Tonight was the 180 I needed!!! Thanks for all the tips so far guys!!

I started off with two passes of F9...with the proper amount of polish this time, and ended up with this-

5-18-09-005w.jpg


It looked really good, but the scratches are still there...albeit faintly...

5-18-09-007w.jpg


So, I decided to do a pass with G6 (thanks Boomer!), and ended up with this!

5-18-09-008w.jpg


The difference between yesterday and today was NIGHT and DAY!!! Here's an overall shot showing how good the flap is looking...swirls and all!!

5-18-09-010w.jpg


GREAT motivation tonight, and I'm on the right track again!! Gotta order some G6 (only have a sample size right now), and get this thing SHINING!!

Now...can I go from G6 to C, or is F7 still gonna be needed? :confused:

:cool::cool:
 
Well, after 15.5 hours (about 4 of that was the learning curve), I have 1/4 of the wings polished!

5-31-09-001w.jpg


5-31-09-002w.jpg


That is Cyclo'd Grade C...and that's where I'm stopping on the bottoms of the wings. Of course, the rest of the airplane will go all the way to S, but I am really happy with this finish!!

:cool::cool::cool:
 
L@@king good.

Told it would work.

Keep at it. It WILL pay off.

See ya,
Boomer
 
polished plane

polished planes always look great !!! I plan on painting mine as it would be a FULL TIME JOB keeping it shiny in 99% humidity in Florida,also I flew in Dick Martins 8 and the glare off his wing in flight was blinding and it was far from shiny. Keep up the good work.
 
Looks, FABulous, Chad. Have you figured out how you'll polish out all the drool marks when you take it to fly-ins? :D
 
Looks Great!!

Chad,

I will say it again, I think you may just be nuts. Although, I will add, it looks awesome! Keep it up.
 
polished planes always look great !!! I plan on painting mine as it would be a FULL TIME JOB keeping it shiny in 99% humidity in Florida,also I flew in Dick Martins 8 and the glare off his wing in flight was blinding and it was far from shiny. Keep up the good work.

Thanks g! Good thing I only fly when it's cloudy! ;);):):D

Looks, FABulous, Chad. Have you figured out how you'll polish out all the drool marks when you take it to fly-ins? :D

You'll have to come with me as security! :D

Chad,

I will say it again, I think you may just be nuts. Although, I will add, it looks awesome! Keep it up.

Well I know I'm nuts! Thanks man! Get that rotary started!! :cool:
 
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