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Old 08-07-2018, 08:44 AM
j-red j-red is offline
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Lewes, DE
Posts: 239
Default 8/05/2018 Update

Finally had a chance to get my engine built and hung. This is the second lycoming i've assembled and it was definitely much less intimidating this time. Just follow the overhaul manual carefully and check off each step as it is accomplished.

The engine assembly isn't completely finished, but done enough to get it out of the church gym so that VBS can commence next week!

List of things to do include:
  • Purchase 5 shorter pushrods for valve clearance
  • Install intra-cylinder baffles then oil drain tubes
  • I'm going to hold off installing the superior cold sump until a new fuel pump gets here... should make it a little easier to keep the plunger in the right spot while putting the pump in.

Next major job: the cowl!

Had my son take a few obligatory pics for the FAA

Rebuilt RV-6A N94CR
RV-8 In Progress
2017 Dues Paid

Last edited by j-red : 08-07-2018 at 07:41 PM.
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Old 08-22-2018, 07:37 AM
j-red j-red is offline
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Lewes, DE
Posts: 239
Default 8/22/18 Update

The cowling is nearly finished! With the engine hung, a whole world of new jobs opens up and this is a big one that needs to be done before all the engine systems installation jobs that will come next.

First up was the front fuselage top skin. There's a lot of staring into the fuselage before starting this to make sure that any little jobs related to the wiring, brakes, etc. are finished. Access is going to be much more difficult after this is done. Assured that all was as finished as it could be, the skin was riveted on.

2.25" spacers cut from pvc pipe hold the spinner disk at the correct location (I sincerely hope!) for the Hartzell propeller. The top cowl was held in place by using a 3/4" thick block of wood cleco'd to the cowl and to the spinner to center it in front and provide the proper 1/4" gap.

The top cowl is held to the firewall with Skybolt fasteners. These are super easy and really make removing and reinstalling the cowl a snap!

I'm going with hinges on the lower cowl except for the very bottom where it meets the firewall on either side of the exhaust. I've riveted some .063 aluminum stock which will get nutplates since I've read of the hinges breaking over time due to vibration in that location.

Aside from riveting the aluminum skin, I've got about 15 hours in the cowl so far. The side parting lines have been trimmed on top and bottom and tomorrow I'll start on the long hinges that connect the two cowl halves together on the sides. This part of the build really has been fun, and I'm pleasantly surprised at how well it looks and how easily it's gone together. I don't at all relish the thought of all the filling, shaping and sanding that's going to be required though, especially around the inlets...
Rebuilt RV-6A N94CR
RV-8 In Progress
2017 Dues Paid
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Old 08-22-2018, 05:33 PM
F1Boss's Avatar
F1Boss F1Boss is offline
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Taylor Texas
Posts: 678
Default You're not quite done with that cowling

Round inlets, Amigo. It's a 'pay me now or pay me later' sort of thing. I fought temps for almost 9 years (head as hard as granite!) then put on the round inlets. It's like a MIRACLE happened. No other changes; no speed loss - tho that is still a secret.

Your oil cooler will also thank you.

Once you get those inlets in place, you will find your outlet getting smaller and smaller...

DanH can coach you thru the process...unless your head is as hard as mine....

"Not everyone needs a Rocket. Some folks, however, shouldn't live life without one.
You know who you are."
Budd Davisson, 1997
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Old 08-23-2018, 03:14 PM
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dwrichey dwrichey is offline
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Reedley, California
Posts: 66

Round inlets are NOT needed for good engine cooling. My RV-8A has an IO-360 with high compression pistons, and stock Van's delivered oil cooler. Cylinders in cruise range from 340 to 358 degrees, never reach 400, even in climb, with oil temps in the 180 to 195 degree range. Just sayin'. Round may be slightly faster, that's another story, but not absolutely necessary for adequate cooling.
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Old 08-31-2018, 08:25 AM
j-red j-red is offline
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Lewes, DE
Posts: 239
Default 8/30/18 Update

Cowling is structurally pretty much done. I've got a dreadful lot of filling, sanding, and sealing to do yet but it is done enough to move onto other more enjoyable things.

I fabbed up a hidden hinge that worked fine, but had more flex on the hinge side than I liked. I just couldn't bring myself to spend $50 to buy the currently marketed one, so I went with the plans based piano hinge method. It works perfectly and looks fine. Could have saved two hours of work doing it this way to begin with. Picture is of my cobbled-together hinge. The cutoff piece of the cowl will be bonded to the door for stiffening.

Next, I started on the baffle kit. I understand the need to have a single baffle kit that fits every airframe and that the 8 has a distinctively different cowl than the others due to the width of the cabin. All considered, it's a good starting point, but those instructions.... without the help of online kit-logs I may have never figured it out!

Five hours over two days and most of the big pieces were in place.

The next day, I finished out a few angle brackets in the center section and then jigged up the top cowl a fixed distance above the lower. A sharpie fastened to a popsicle stick that same distance was used to transcribe the shape of the top cowl onto the baffles. Two colors in alternate turns were used, and the cut made between the lines just to be safe. Testing the top cowl after reveals a nearly perfect fit aside from the back two corners which will need to be trimmed some more. Tomorrow, I'll get out the paperclips and get the gap fixed at 1/2" all around.

*Final note: I love the Skybolt fasteners on the top, but boy am I glad that they were ONLY used on the top cowl!!! The baffles require installing and removing the lower cowl about a thousand times, and the hinge pins are so quick and easy when it comes to holding the cowl with one hand and fixing it in place with the other. YMMV
Rebuilt RV-6A N94CR
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Old 09-17-2018, 07:42 AM
j-red j-red is offline
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Lewes, DE
Posts: 239
Default N Number Reserved 9/17/18

Lots of work has been happening resulting in the baffles, vertical air intake housing (snorkel), and windscreen attachment/fairing all being very near completion. Will post pictures when they are finished which should be toward the end of this week.

Update today is that I've officially reserved the number N801DR, and begun getting paperwork together to be sent off to the FAA for registration. EAA says to do this 3-6 months out in case of any delays. I'm really hoping to have the airworthiness inspection sometime in January/February, which means that this is just about the time to start all that.

Goal by the end of October is to have the fuselage ready to take to the Hangar. This will mean:
  • Prop hung and spinner fitted
  • Cowl joints and "gaps" filled and sanded including oil door recess
  • Horizontal cowl pin securement (is that a word?) figured out and completed
  • Fuel and oil hose fabrication/installation
  • CPI ignition system installation
  • Slick harness modification for auto plugs (ala G3i instructions)
  • Engine monitoring sensors/wiring completed including starter, alternator, and engine grounding cables.

Pretty aggressive schedule, but I've been getting 2-3 hours work done 6 mornings a week, so I believe it is do-able.
Rebuilt RV-6A N94CR
RV-8 In Progress
2017 Dues Paid

Last edited by j-red : 09-17-2018 at 07:46 AM.
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