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  #11  
Old 11-19-2008, 11:26 AM
noelf noelf is offline
 
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Location: Cary, N.C.
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Check out the AeroShell (Shell Oil Co.) web site,
Look for the Piston Engine Oils pdf in their AeroShell Book section...
and there you will find an 11 page document on oils, applications, grade differences (example: aviation grade 80 = SAE grade 40), and why one should not use aviation specified oils in auto engines...and also the opposite.
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  #12  
Old 11-19-2008, 09:17 PM
RScott RScott is offline
 
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Location: Estacada, OR
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I know someone who uses motorcycle oil, which I suppose is formulated for air cooled engines.

Personally, I agree with those who think that aircraft engines are too expensive to risk for the possible savings of a few hundred dollars over the life of the engine.

Also, think about resale value. If a buyer knows you have been using anything other than aircraft oil, do you suppose he/she will be willing to pay as much for the aircraft? You might lose all your savings and more when it is time to sell.
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  #13  
Old 11-19-2008, 10:37 PM
gasman gasman is offline
 
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Location: Sonoma County
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I just paid 4.95 per quart. Case of 12.This is what ECI uses as break in oil. And full time oil.

Phillips 66® X/C® 20W-50

X/C 20W-50 is the first approved multiviscosity aviation oil for opposed piston engines. It provides better engine performance than any single grade oil in all weather conditions. X/C 20W-50 is formulated with an ashless dispersant package allowing for cleaner engine operation. X/C 20W-50 is recommended for break-in. It provides a cleaner and quicker break-in than traditional all mineral single grade oils. Plus, X/C®is an operational oil so there is no need to switch oils after break-in. X/C 20W-50 utilizes all petroleum base oils which provide excellent solvency and is successful in preventing lead and lead salts.

Take advantage of X/C 20W-50’s multiviscosity performance benefits year-round for easier starts and quicker flow of oil to critical engine parts.

Package Availability: 55-gallon drums, 4/1 gallon jugs, 12/1quart.
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  #14  
Old 11-20-2008, 05:20 AM
1flyer 1flyer is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: St. Louis, Missouri
Posts: 135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RScott View Post
I know someone who uses motorcycle oil, which I suppose is formulated for air cooled engines.
Not really. A lot of motorcycles use an oil bath clutch system. The difference is "motorcycle" oil has additivies that help prolong the clutch and for easy of operation.
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  #15  
Old 11-20-2008, 05:38 AM
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f1rocket f1rocket is offline
 
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Location: Martinsville, IN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gasman View Post
I just paid 4.95 per quart. Case of 12.This is what ECI uses as break in oil. And full time oil.

Phillips 66® X/C® 20W-50

X/C 20W-50 is the first approved multiviscosity aviation oil for opposed piston engines. It provides better engine performance than any single grade oil in all weather conditions. X/C 20W-50 is formulated with an ashless dispersant package allowing for cleaner engine operation. X/C 20W-50 is recommended for break-in. It provides a cleaner and quicker break-in than traditional all mineral single grade oils. Plus, X/C®is an operational oil so there is no need to switch oils after break-in. X/C 20W-50 utilizes all petroleum base oils which provide excellent solvency and is successful in preventing lead and lead salts.

Take advantage of X/C 20W-50’s multiviscosity performance benefits year-round for easier starts and quicker flow of oil to critical engine parts.

Package Availability: 55-gallon drums, 4/1 gallon jugs, 12/1quart.
Be aware that Lycoming only recommends regular oil for engine break-in on only a couple of specific engine models. For everyone else, you should use mineral oil. I was researching the topic on the Lycoming web site as a result of this thread, FWIW. After break-in, I use the Phillips X/C 20W-50W and it is what my engine oil analyzer recomended too!
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  #16  
Old 11-20-2008, 12:26 PM
MarinePilot MarinePilot is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: PA
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Default Service Instruction 1014M from Lycoming

Here is Lycoming's Service Instruction on oil recommendations.

http://www.lycoming.com/support/publ...fs/SI1014M.pdf
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  #17  
Old 11-20-2008, 08:48 PM
the_other_dougreeves the_other_dougreeves is offline
 
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Location: Dallas, TX (ADS)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1flyer View Post
Not really. A lot of motorcycles use an oil bath clutch system. The difference is "motorcycle" oil has additivies that help prolong the clutch and for easy of operation.
And, for the Rotax flyers amongst us, motorcycle oil has anti-foaming agents that are helpful for the 912's gearbox, which uses the same oil system as the engine. Penzoil motorcycle oil works well, and the new AeroShell Oil Sport Plus 4 (what a name!) is a semi-synthetic that works well if you burn mostly mogas but some 100LL.

TODR
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  #18  
Old 11-21-2008, 06:13 AM
Steve Brown Steve Brown is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Alviso, CA
Posts: 401
Default Seems like a lot of FUD

Fear, uncertainty, and doubt

Why is this not about temperature, RPMs, and clearances? Oil doesn't know if its flying or not.

I'm not knowledgeable about oil or engines, and I don't find oil to be a major cost overall, so I'm not motivated to experiment.

Someone should though so we can all benifit

Tangentially related:
2000 hr TBO x 150mph = 300,000 miles

That's a low average speed for an RV. For all the whining about the outdated "Lycosourous", I'd like to see one factory auto engine that could run that many miles at the high power settings we use. Even if the average Lyco only went half that long I think its a major feat.
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  #19  
Old 11-21-2008, 08:43 AM
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GAHco GAHco is offline
 
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Red face Why would you think of that.

My last name is Brink, I am of Dutch descent.

Yes I can be cheap. But I still expect quality (that's the dutch part).

The long term economy is what I am after. I am not a lubrication engineer, but for the price difference in the oil, my belief is to go with the recommended tried and true.

Remember, surprises in aviation are typically not a good thing
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  #20  
Old 11-21-2008, 09:00 AM
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rocketbob rocketbob is offline
 
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Default food for discussion

I know some guys that ran Amsoil in their 540's, and after 25 hours when you'd expect the oil to start turning black it was still nice and clear.

With that said I was once told by a Phillips lubrication engineer that if we got rid of the lead in our oil, there's no reason we couldn't use a full synthetic oil. One reason for dispersants in our oil is for lead suspension.

I use Mobil 1 full synthetic in our cars, and in particular my diesel car, uses Mobil 1 Truck and SUV. The change interval with that stuff is 10K miles.

I for one welcome the demise of 100LL, so we can switch to more modern formulations. I think 100hr change intervals would be a good thing.
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