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  #11  
Old 12-16-2017, 11:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rv7charlie View Post
Was that a response to my post? If so, I don't think I mentioned torque. C/S-ing a thin skin can compound the misalignment issue.
I see more misalignment if you use the Vans method of a screw in a reference nutplate and drill though the ear holes - rather than using a true nutplate jig.

The holes in the K1000 nutplates are spec'd at 0.098 +0.005 -0.000 inches, and most I have used tend to be a the high end of the specification, which is almost a #37 drill size.

Using a #40 drill though the platenut holes will give more misalignment that hand countersinking a hole made with a platenut jig.

The cost and stocking is negligible, you only really need the -3 and -3.5 lengths - anything that needs a longer rivet is thick enough to countersink.

I find them much easier to use, replacing 4 dimpling operations with two countersinking ones and never dimpled a single nutplate in my RV-6A

PS I forgot all the holes are now pre-punched, but it's still easier
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  #12  
Old 12-17-2017, 08:57 AM
rv7charlie rv7charlie is online now
 
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Gil,

My comments were specific to prepunched kits (-7, in my case). The slop in the #40 holes in the skin plus the ears of the nutplates can let the nutplate drift out of alignment enough that after riveting, screw insertion becomes...problematic. Dimpling the (pre-punched) skin and the nutplate ears seems to force the nutplate into alignment.

My experience, anyway.
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  #13  
Old 12-17-2017, 09:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by az_gila View Post
The cost and stocking is negligible, you only really need the -3 and -3.5 lengths - anything that needs a longer rivet is thick enough to countersink.
Since this location is skin, fitting rib, fitting nutplate, I think if you're going to do it this way, why not just countersink the rib flange to accept the dimple from the baggage floor skin? You'll need a longer rivet than 3.5, of course.
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  #14  
Old 12-17-2017, 09:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greghughespdx View Post
Dimple the things. Depending on your dimple dies you might have to/find it useful to grind down one side of the die so that might otherwise interfere with the nut part of the nutplate when squeezing. The ears will probably bend a little. They bend back.
Right, which an RV-12 builder would have done by this point anyway since instructions on the emp kit required the dimpling of the nutplate ears with this advice.
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  #15  
Old 12-17-2017, 09:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LettersFromFlyoverCountry View Post
Since this location is skin, fitting rib, fitting nutplate, I think if you're going to do it this way, why not just countersink the rib flange to accept the dimple from the baggage floor skin? You'll need a longer rivet than 3.5, of course.
I think I misstated a little....

If it's thicker, then no need for the small head rivet, simply use a standard AN426 rivet.
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Half completed RV-10 QB purchased
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Grumman Tiger N12GA - flying
La Cholla Airpark (57AZ) Tucson AZ
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  #16  
Old 12-17-2017, 09:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rv7charlie View Post
Gil,

My comments were specific to prepunched kits (-7, in my case). The slop in the #40 holes in the skin plus the ears of the nutplates can let the nutplate drift out of alignment enough that after riveting, screw insertion becomes...problematic. Dimpling the (pre-punched) skin and the nutplate ears seems to force the nutplate into alignment.

My experience, anyway.
Yes, but I put most of this down to the larger holes in the ears.

I usually squeeze one rivet a bit, then set the second rivet and go back to the first. This lets the first rivet center itself in the larger ear hole and keep the main hole/nutplate alignment correct.

Since these small rivets don't need a lot of force, I hand squeeze all of them so the above steps don't really take any extra time. Clecoes can also push the nutplate out of alignment so if gravity and space allows I use a piece of stick tape to hold the rivets in place and hold the nutplate with my fingers for the initial small squeeze.

A nice bevel on the main holes helps a bit too with later screw insertion.

Building the -6A and using nutplates to hold down the baggage floor and seat panels instead of pull rivets gave me lots of practice.
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Gil Alexander
EAA Technical Counselor, Airframe Mechanic
Half completed RV-10 QB purchased
RV-6A N61GX - finally flying
Grumman Tiger N12GA - flying
La Cholla Airpark (57AZ) Tucson AZ

Last edited by az_gila : 12-17-2017 at 10:00 AM.
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