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  #1  
Old 12-26-2017, 03:42 PM
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LettersFromFlyoverCountry LettersFromFlyoverCountry is offline
 
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Default Drilling out CCR264SS-3-2 rivets



RV12 Section 21. Page 21IS/U-5.

Unbeknownst to me, the nutplate had fallen off as I pulled the CCR264SS-3-2 rivets.

These are those hollow rivets (once pulled) that are used for nutplates and they don't seem to drill out as easily (if it at all) as regular CherryMax rivets, plus they're steel . And because they're small and the hole is mostly hollow, they spin like a sonofofagun.

Who's done this before and can recommend a procedure?
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  #2  
Old 12-26-2017, 03:44 PM
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This ..

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...driv-03368.php

Works great!

Edit: Not sure why someone gave it a 2-star review, it has different sizes for different rivets and I have never scarred anything using it correctly.
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Last edited by bkervaski : 12-26-2017 at 03:46 PM.
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  #3  
Old 12-26-2017, 03:53 PM
rv7charlie rv7charlie is offline
 
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Got a pair of flush cutting 'dykes' (diagonal wire cutters)? If you've got a pair that are old and no longer great for wire cutting, you can use them as a combo gripper and wedge to hold the head while drilling. Won't make it easier to drill, but will help prevent spinning. The jaws will either grab the head, or wedge between the head and the material (bulkhead, skin, etc) which will increase friction to reduce spinning. Go slow with the drill & use a sharp (and sacrificial, in the case of stainless) bit.
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Old 12-26-2017, 08:20 PM
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I second the blind rivet removal tool. Its made by ATS and works very well. The tool head bites into the rivet head and holds the rivet from spinning while you drill out the center. Id give it five stars.
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  #5  
Old 12-27-2017, 12:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rongawer View Post
I second the blind rivet removal tool. It’s made by ATS and works very well. The tool head bites into the rivet head and holds the rivet from spinning while you drill out the center. I’d give it five stars.
How well does it center on a flush countersunk rivet?

The Spruce description says - The serrated nosepiece fits over any button head, round head, or universal head rivet

No mention of flush rivets.
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  #6  
Old 12-27-2017, 05:37 AM
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Or.....

Just launch what you have left into the trash and use CCC-32's.

We stopped using them them very early in the build.
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  #7  
Old 12-27-2017, 08:13 AM
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Quote:
How well does it center on a flush countersunk rivet?
It works the same. On flush rivets I start the hole with a tiny bit just to make sure it starts centered. On dome rivets a centering hole isn't necessary. Really does work well, you just have to make sure you use the appropriate sized head (most common ones are included) so the "teeth" only grab the rivet and not the surrounding skin.
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  #8  
Old 12-27-2017, 10:14 AM
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As noted, it does work on flush rivets. The serrated nose piece bites in well, just place it firmly before you start the drill. The more expensive tool that ACS sells comes with the serrated tips; I’m not sure about the less expensive one.

It makes easy work of removing rivets; while solid flush rivets do come with a drill punch, I still use this tool to ensure the bit stays centered and no more elongated holes.
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  #9  
Old 12-28-2017, 07:57 PM
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To conclude, it came out fine with the modified side cutters and a new drill bit.
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