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PPG Epoxy Primer

RidiculousM

Well Known Member
Looks like the preferred epoxy primer for sealing/prepping fiberglass work is PPG DPLF then PPG K36. I have K36 and PPG Super Koropon epoxy primer. Will the Super Koropon work in place of DPLF? I have tried calling PPG tech help @ 1-818-627-3703 and unable to get answer/reply. If anyone knows the answer or a place I can get the answer would be great. I would simply order DPLF but TCP Global says its a no go in California.

Thanks

Mike
 
A word of caution on your intended use of PPG DPLF. This particular primer is not suited for use as a high build primer when trying to fill pinholes. The particular properties of DPLF provides for a pot life of up to 72 hours (temperature dependent), and can be top coated without sanding for up to one week.

If you try to sand DPLF before the one week is up, the sandpaper will gum up rapidly and leave the surface somewhat unattractive. You would be better off using a different primer for the pinhole work (I use K38...dries fast and ready to sand). I have not tried the K36 as I really like the performance of the K38.

Once the K38 (or K36) is sanded and you are satisfied with the surface prep, you are ready to apply the topcoat color. You can also shoot the DPLF on top of the K38/K36. Also as a side bit of info, the primers do not provide any UV protection. UV protection is in the color topcoat.
 
DPLF, K36, and K38 are all PPG epoxy primers. Each takes a different hardener, and the DPLF can also be tented and use a temperature dependent reducer. Check the data sheets to see which fits your intended application technique and environment.
 
Will the Super Koropon work in place of DPLF? I have tried calling PPG tech help @ 1-818-627-3703 and unable to get answer/reply.

Mike, keep trying the tech help guys at PPG. Personally I've good success there by email, and I'm a big believer in sticking with exactly what the manufacturer recommends. Read the tech sheets carefully.

DPLF, K36, and K38 are all PPG epoxy primers. Each takes a different hardener....

No, K36 and K38 are acrylic urethanes. Both use K201 hardener.

I'm not a big fan of anything with a solvent content for pinhole filling. There is always some product shrinkage as the solvents evaporate, the result usually being depressions at the site of each pinhole or divot, or the pinhole reopening. Neat epoxy is the same material as the base, offers superior adhesion, and has no shrinkage. However, I'll be the first to agree that almost anything with a solids content, up to and including river mud, can be used to fill a pinhole.
 
OK, I'm confused. The datasheet for K36 says nothing about K201...it says use either DCX8 or DCX61...is this the same stuff by a different name?

Hmmm, interesting. Where are you seeing that?

I've been using the online Deltron catalog pages. The K36 link is here:

https://buyat.ppg.com/refinishProdu...roductID=45347953-5f4e-4669-9651-7724e03b738f

Click "English" under "Tech Info" for the datasheet. Data sheet snapshot:

qzrcwm.jpg
 
I think I see what's happening here...bulletin P-169S is for K36 used as a wet on wet sealer and bulletin P-169P is for use as a primer-surfacer. I presume I really want the K201 hardener since I don't even know what a wet on wet sealer is....
 
The DCX series hardeners are used in some clears and DCC single stage basecoat. I wasn't aware that it was an option in K36 either. But I don't use K36 as a wet/wet sealer either. For what you want to do, I'm sure the the PPG tech folks would suggest the K201 hardener.

Dan is completely correct about the other stuff, by the way... DP is the only epoxy product... and anything with a solvent is going to shrink...

Back in the 90's when I started painting composite airplanes, I sent PPG some scraps cut off of a wrecked Lancair 320 to play with. Their suggestion, for best adherion was to apply a coat of DP__ first, then use K36 or K38. But they noted that the DP was optional and the K__ should adhere fine as the first product applied also..

Brad Simmons
Airframes Inc.
Milan, TN
[email protected]
 
Brad, I am glad to see your reply re: applying K36 by itself vs over DPLF. I was wondering why it was necessary (or desirable?) to spray DPLF first and then K36. Since I am using this over gel coat (cleaned and scuffed), is it best to apply DPLF first? Or does it matter?
 
Their suggestion, for best adhesion was to apply a coat of DP__ first, then use K36 or K38. But they noted that the DP was optional and the K__ should adhere fine as the first product applied also..

Ahh, nice, thanks Brad. That's almost exactly word for word what the PPG field rep told me when I went PPG circa '06. I asked because a previous, late 80's composite project had peeled at the interface between the well-sanded glass surface and a then-popular polyester high-build surfacer. I've been cautious ever since.

Anyway, the word was that you don't need DPLF under the K36, but for maximum adhesion spray DPLF, then spray K36 as soon as the solvent flashed.

There's a nice little side benefit. Use a different shade of DPLF under the K36 and it becomes a sanding guide. Stop blocking the K36 when you can see the DPLF through it on the high spots.
 
Looks like the preferred epoxy primer for sealing/prepping fiberglass work is PPG DPLF then PPG K36. I have K36 and PPG Super Koropon epoxy primer. Will the Super Koropon work in place of DPLF? I have tried calling PPG tech help @ 1-818-627-3703 and unable to get answer/reply. If anyone knows the answer or a place I can get the answer would be great. I would simply order DPLF but TCP Global says its a no go in California.

Thanks

Mike

Check with the SCAQMD, their strict rules have exemptions for single users operating with limited volumes.

TCP Global may just be following the rules for commercial users.

If you like reading rules...:rolleyes:

https://www.aqmd.gov/rules/
 
Mark, Dan is again correct regarding the "why"... K36 will adhere, but DP__ will adhere better. Also, a nice tip about the color difference.

Over gelcoat, it probably isn't a "must-do"... more work, weight, and cost, plus it's something else you can screw up. On the other hand, if you don't properly prep or clean, or don't know how to properly prep or clean... it may protect you from yourself... ;-)

Most of the time, on customer's planes, we do not use it first. But I always discuss the option with the customer and let them make the call.

Brad
 
I'm late but can I jump in your sand box? Just shot DP 90 LF epoxy primer on the pants, wholly Molly this sure does amplify pinholes! I used this on the emp fairing and found it extremely sensitive to temps while shooting, runs. On the other hand, it does wet sand nicely :D
 
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