VansAirForceForums  
Home > VansAirForceForums

- POSTING RULES
- Donate yearly (please).
- Advertise in here!

- Today's Posts | Insert Pics

  #1  
Old 03-08-2018, 07:32 AM
Timberwild Timberwild is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 19
Default Flap actuator bar

Would anyone send me a photo of their flap actuator bar installation? I'm doing electric flaps but doesn't matter- what I see is conflict with the angled gussets on the rear wing spar carry through bulkhead. The actuator bar, when installed in the blocks, will strike both sides of the angled lower part of this bulkhead when extending flaps. This must be very simple but I'm not sure if trimming these angles is ok. I'll call Van's if necessary but a photo or description will certainly work for me.
Thanks for any advice.
__________________
Wyn
RV-4 in progress
Donated 2018
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 03-08-2018, 07:42 AM
Larry DeCamp's Avatar
Larry DeCamp Larry DeCamp is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Clinton, Indiana
Posts: 645
Default Gusset contact

Wyn,
I am just building my 4 and will await answers also. I ASSUME the gusset is the lower limit of travel corresponding 40* flap and the arm comes UP for 0*.
__________________
Larry DeCamp
RV-3B flying w/ carb & Pmags
RV-4 fastback w/ Superior EXP 0360 /AFP & CPI
Clinton, IN
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 03-08-2018, 08:07 AM
Timberwild Timberwild is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 19
Default

Doesn't seem to be that way on mine. I've installed the nutplates for the blocks and temporarily fitted the actuator bar (I have the manual and the electric bars) and rotating them downward as needed for flap extension I contact the gussets well before 40 degrees.
__________________
Wyn
RV-4 in progress
Donated 2018
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 03-08-2018, 08:18 AM
rv4ross rv4ross is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Locust Grove, GA
Posts: 49
Default

Yes, the triangular gussets will have to be trimmed to allow full travel for the flaps. I remember seeing this noted somewhere and may be in the “Builders Manual”.

Ross Scroggs
RV4. #3911
Finishing stage
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 03-08-2018, 11:47 AM
Timberwild Timberwild is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 19
Default

Thanks, Ross.
__________________
Wyn
RV-4 in progress
Donated 2018
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 03-25-2018, 08:02 PM
RepmikeBrown RepmikeBrown is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Tahlequah , Ok
Posts: 143
Default

Wyn, this was early on in the build. I can send you some more pics tomorrow. I’ve git the floor plates pulled and can get you finished pics. One thing I’d do different is the floor plate. I did platenut it down, but I’d cut out around the nylon hold down blocks because you will be taking this off and on many times fitting things. The two piece floor plate would be a lot easier if it was in more sections. Your original question- I did have to cup out the flange on both to get full down on flap bar




I had my grandson print these flap rod fairings on his 3D printer. I covered the top with aluminum and a leather slit out. I should have printed the top also and then cut out the peanut shape for the flap rod. A piece of foam glued to bottom seals up around rod nice.
__________________
RV4 Built/flying
repmikebrown@yahoo.com
Mike Brown

Last edited by RepmikeBrown : 03-25-2018 at 08:48 PM. Reason: Added copy and pics
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:15 PM.


The VAFForums come to you courtesy Delta Romeo, LLC. By viewing and participating in them you agree to build your plane using standardized methods and practices and to fly it safely and in accordance with the laws governing the country you are located in.