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  #121  
Old 11-10-2018, 11:39 PM
charosenz's Avatar
charosenz charosenz is offline
 
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Location: Longview, Wash
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rv7charlie View Post
To be sure we're on the same page, when you say bypass, do you mean from the water pump output back to somewhere on the block, without going through the radiator? If the answer is yes, is there any chance that when the pump starts working harder at higher rpm, more of the water is taking the path of less resistance, back through the block instead of through the rad?
Sorry I did not get back to your questions sooner....

There are two bypasses on this engine. One for the Heater Core, and one for the transmission cooler. They are both connected internally in the block. I am using one of them. They pass water through the engine even when the thermostat is closed. It is only about a 1/2" in diameter so while it is important to make sure the head does not develop hot spots before the thermostat opens.... I don't think it is as significant at this point because I am not currently using a thermostat. (I plan to put one back in after more testing).

Due to some progress recently I am cautiously optimistic it was trapped air but more testing is needed before I really feel comfortable I know what is the full cause of the issues.

Thanks.!

Charlie
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  #122  
Old 11-11-2018, 08:27 PM
Tomcat RV4 Tomcat RV4 is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Jacksonville,Fl. 32246
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Yes I had totally stock 2.5 imprezza subie, 165 hp,with SDS and 950lbs empty weight, turned out to be a rocket ship, way to much for someone my age, so in
Process building zenith 701, definitely use auto eng in it ! It went to good home
in S. America . Tom
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  #123  
Old 11-11-2018, 10:05 PM
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charosenz charosenz is offline
 
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Location: Longview, Wash
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomcat RV4 View Post
Yes I had totally stock 2.5 imprezza subie, 165 hp,with SDS and 950lbs empty weight, turned out to be a rocket ship, way to much for someone my age, so in
Process building zenith 701, definitely use auto eng in it ! It went to good home
in S. America . Tom

I would really like to learn more about the radiator set up in it do you have pictures you can share? Were you happy with it ?

Charlie
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  #124  
Old 11-12-2018, 03:00 PM
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charosenz charosenz is offline
 
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Default SOLVED!!!! (cooling gremlin)

My cooling troubles are SOLVED!

I do believe that 90% of it was just like Ross and others suggested, BUBBLES! Trapped air.

Super thankful to Ross, Bill, Andy, Jon, Jeff, RV7charlie and all who gave advice and support.


I ran it at 4800 rpm and about 28" MAP - for more than 10 minutes, which is kind of harry on a teststand in my parking lot at home.....and it held at 185*F outlet, and about 159*F inlet temp. This was with NO thermostat and the bypass open.

I will add the turbo back on and see how that goes. I have read different theories on the routing of turbo water cooling lines. These are on the sides of the turbo housing. Some say both should point up to allow water to pool to aid in cooling after shut down, some say one up and one down and some say both down.

Ross, if you are reading this, I know you have a ton of experience at this. what is yoru advice on the turbo water cooling lines. I have mine on banjo fittings. So they either have to point up or down. I have had them both pointing up and this does allow for water to "rest" in the turbo housing after shut down. But since my turbo is really up high on the block, they have a tendency to encourage air to get trapped in the top after shutdown. I can try to find a pic to show you what I mean.....

Charlie
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  #125  
Old 11-12-2018, 03:11 PM
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rv6ejguy rv6ejguy is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charosenz View Post
My cooling troubles are SOLVED!

I do believe that 90% of it was just like Ross and others suggested, BUBBLES! Trapped air.

Super thankful to Ross, Bill, Andy, Jon, Jeff, RV7charlie and all who gave advice and support.


I ran it at 4800 rpm and about 28" MAP - for more than 10 minutes, which is kind of harry on a teststand in my parking lot at home.....and it held at 185*F outlet, and about 159*F inlet temp. This was with NO thermostat and the bypass open.

I will add the turbo back on and see how that goes. I have read different theories on the routing of turbo water cooling lines. These are on the sides of the turbo housing. Some say both should point up to allow water to pool to aid in cooling after shut down, some say one up and one down and some say both down.

Ross, if you are reading this, I know you have a ton of experience at this. what is yoru advice on the turbo water cooling lines. I have mine on banjo fittings. So they either have to point up or down. I have had them both pointing up and this does allow for water to "rest" in the turbo housing after shut down. But since my turbo is really up high on the block, they have a tendency to encourage air to get trapped in the top after shutdown. I can try to find a pic to show you what I mean.....

Charlie
Glad you solved it and those temps look much like mine now.

If this is a journal bearing turbo, I'd leave the water lines disconnected and just run a good synthetic oil like Mobil 1. They are a liability in my experience.

If it's a BB center section, you need the water lines. A slight up slope in the fittings from feed to exit should help move air through and thermo syphon water through the center section.
__________________

Ross Farnham, Calgary, Alberta
Turbo Subaru EJ22, SDS EFI, Marcotte M-300, IVO, RV6A C-GVZX flying from CYBW since 2003- 426.1 hrs. on the Hobbs,
RV10 95% built- Sold 2016
http://www.sdsefi.com/aircraft.html
http://sdsefi.com/cpi.htm



Last edited by rv6ejguy : 11-12-2018 at 03:31 PM.
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  #126  
Old 11-12-2018, 03:28 PM
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charosenz charosenz is offline
 
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Default turbo cooling

Ross,

I have used mobil synthetic from the beginning. This turbo is a journal, as I consider myself still in the proof-of-concept stage.

Thanks again, great support and help as always.

Charlie
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  #127  
Old 11-12-2018, 03:30 PM
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charosenz charosenz is offline
 
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As a follow up....my next step is to install the turbo, and then a thermostat.

LESSON LEARNED: To all who may venture on a project like this...It is imperative to take a lot of extra time and effort to set up a system that will ensure all the air bubbles are out of the cooling system. I am amazed that it took hours, and more importantly, a weird (to me) set up where the top line could feel back to an open funnel to allow bubbles to evacuate out of the system as it was running.

ALSO, I think it is very important to have a temp probe to test the coolant temp as it leaves the block/head AND another one to test the temp of the coolant as it reenters the engine from the radiator. If I had not done this I would have missed the fact that these temps were diverging instead moving up lock-step as the water getst hotter. I will definitely keep a dual coolant gauge on my plane.

I think a catch-can style auto bleeding set up may be in order. I have some ideals....

Charlie

Last edited by charosenz : 11-12-2018 at 03:33 PM.
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  #128  
Old 11-19-2018, 09:36 PM
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charosenz charosenz is offline
 
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Location: Longview, Wash
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Default ENGINE MOUNT (Early Stage)

I am very happy with the progress of the engine testing. The cooling was my biggest challenge. I was finally able to evacuate the air and things are running quite well now, considering it is on a test stand with a small radiator.

I am beginning the next phase which is to build an engine mount. Below is a link to a picture of the mount in the jig. It is chromoly tubing. I will be working to fine tune the fit and migrate it over to the engine and tack weld it and then mate it up to the airframe and tack weld that.

Once it is fully tack welded I will install the custom cowling and cross my fingers and hope for a good fit.

http://www.halie.com/o7t.jpg I would appreciate someone to let me know that the link I provided actually opens up for you OK.

Also, for those who have not seen a video of the engine running on the test stand, below is a link of a video I made today of it running at 4000 RPM at 30" of MAP using a 68" 3 bladed warp drive prop and of course the SDS EFI. It is up-fitting with a T3/T4 Turbo and the Viking Aircraft Engine gear box. Sorry for the sunlight washing out the pic when I walk around the engine, it was late in the day.

https://youtu.be/YEKzTym9DaM

(hope the link works for you all.).

Thanks for all the support and encouragement.

Charlie

Last edited by charosenz : 11-19-2018 at 09:39 PM.
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  #129  
Old 11-19-2018, 10:17 PM
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rv6ejguy rv6ejguy is offline
 
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The photo shows up fine. Lots of time spent fitting those tubes. I remember this step well on my 2 planes.

The power setting in the video is about where I run my Sube in cruise- 25 inches and 4200 rpm. The Honda sounds nice and smooth there. Keep up the good work.
__________________

Ross Farnham, Calgary, Alberta
Turbo Subaru EJ22, SDS EFI, Marcotte M-300, IVO, RV6A C-GVZX flying from CYBW since 2003- 426.1 hrs. on the Hobbs,
RV10 95% built- Sold 2016
http://www.sdsefi.com/aircraft.html
http://sdsefi.com/cpi.htm


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  #130  
Old 11-19-2018, 10:49 PM
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charosenz charosenz is offline
 
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Location: Longview, Wash
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rv6ejguy View Post
The photo shows up fine. Lots of time spent fitting those tubes. I remember this step well on my 2 planes.

The power setting in the video is about where I run my Sube in cruise- 25 inches and 4200 rpm. The Honda sounds nice and smooth there. Keep up the good work.
Thanks Ross. Yes, I will feel a bit of relief when I take it out of jig and try the fit to the engine and airframe. I expect a few minor tweaks and that is why it will be tack welded for the trial fit.

It will be a big day for me when I can hear and see that engine run while I am sitting in the plane!

Thanks

Charlie
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