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wing root fairing channel and fuel line ?

JimWoo50

Well Known Member
I had a brain cramp or something and I cut my wing root fairings just a little too small to the extent the rubber channel just touches the fuse side. The fairings fit real nice they lay nice and flat and look good so I hate to make another set. So I am looking for a replacement rubber "h" channel with about a quarter inch longer flange. Does such a thing exist? I looked at Spruce and didnt see anything. Or should I just glue the doggone thing on and settle for that? I have read that the 3m weatherstriip yellow glue holds them on real good but will that prevent water from going down there? Another question while I am at it. What is a good way to secure the fuel lines to the floor so they don't get kicked around? I'm getting ready to mount my wings permanently and would like to clear up all these little items now. Thanks in advance. Jim.
 
Scrap and Replace

......I cut my wing root fairings just a little too small to the extent the rubber channel just touches the fuse side......
You will spend more time and quite possibly more money by attempting a work-around trying to find and use a different rubber channel that what it is called out for use in the first place. Order new wing root fairings....I did....and get it right the next time around. You can maintain a consistent gap on the fairing by cobbing together a simple "standoff" jig with some sort of a pointed awl affixed to it, I used a ground down drill bit...that you run along the fuselage side while at the same time scribing/etching a line into the wing root fairing below it. Use that line as a reference to remove excess material. Doing so will insure even consistency in the gap along its entire length between the fuselage and fairing. Using glue of any sort to hold the rubber channel in place is a cop-out and weak sister dead giveaway that you demonstrated less than skillfull craftsmanship when you to secured the rubber channel into place. This is an area that every casual viewer will see. I suggest you scrap the SOB's (Substandard Oversize Bloopers :)) order new wing root fairings, and try again. No big deal. Tip: Be sure to run an edge rolling tool over the outboard edge of the fairings before you dimple the holes to insure a nice tight fit like your first attempt did.

oa7iuf.jpg
 
RV-9A fairings

I feel for you guys who built RV-6 airplanes. The wing root fairing on my RV-9A fit perfectly from the factory. I guess all that CNC design and fabrication of parts at Van's factory made the difference.
 
I feel for you guys who built RV-6 airplanes. The wing root fairing on my RV-9A fit perfectly from the factory. I guess all that CNC design and fabrication of parts at Van's factory made the difference.

Yea, but with a bigger tail, and longer wings......

You had to install a lot more rivets! :D

L.Adamson --- RV6A
 
Fuel Lines

Here is how I ran and secured mine.

fuel2s.jpg


fuel1g.jpg


I used lots of Adel Clamps and didn't bother with the RV7 center tunnel cover that I bought as part of the 6/7 FWF kit.

Jim Sharkey
RV6 - Phase 1
 
Ditto!

You will spend more time and quite possibly more money by attempting a work-around trying to find and use a different rubber channel that what it is called out for use in the first place. Order new wing root fairings....I did....and get it right the next time around. You can maintain a consistent gap on the fairing by cobbing together a simple "standoff" jig with some sort of a pointed awl affixed to it, I used a ground down drill bit...that you run along the fuselage side while at the same time scribing/etching a line into the wing root fairing below it. Use that line as a reference to remove excess material. Doing so will insure even consistency in the gap along its entire length between the fuselage and fairing. Using glue of any sort to hold the rubber channel in place is a cop-out and weak sister dead giveaway that you demonstrated less than skillfull craftsmanship when you to secured the rubber channel into place. This is an area that every casual viewer will see. I suggest you scrap the SOB's (Substandard Oversize Bloopers :)) order new wing root fairings, and try again. No big deal. Tip: Be sure to run an edge rolling tool over the outboard edge of the fairings before you dimple the holes to insure a nice tight fit like your first attempt did.

oa7iuf.jpg

I agree - it'll be easier in the long run.

Jim Sharkey
 
Thanks for the advice I will order the new fairings because you guys are right its not worth the effort to glue them only to have to replace them later because they still won't be good. As for the fuel lines I would like to use adel clamps as depicted but my fuel lines come from and run to the sides making placing of the clamp different. Thanks again. Jim.
 
... What is a good way to secure the fuel lines to the floor so they don't get kicked around?...
Jim,

This is what worked for me.



After the Great Stuff hardened, I used a hacksaw blade to cut the excess off the top. The mold was even with the height of the cover and keeps everything from vibrating.

Simple and light.
 
Standard Practices

.....What is a good way to secure the fuel lines to the floor so they don't get kicked around?.....
It sounds to me like you are having difficulty figuring out how to firmly attach the fuel line to the floor stiffeners at a right angle. This is easily accomplished in a way consistent with standard practices outlined in AC43. I put together a very quick "mockup" to more clearly illustrate the technique so try to ignore the wrong hardware and "C" clamp holding everything together.

All you have to do is fabricate a small clip that is attached to the stiffener using AD4 rivets on one leg and a single hole on the other leg to attach the AN bolt (or screw) through an adel clamp. This example is but one in a long line of reasons why I prefer my pneumatic alligator squeezer over a "C" type squeezer 9 times out of ten. Still, getting in there to buck the 2 attach rivets with a gun should be child's play by now.

bezitf.jpg
 
Rick you read my mind thanks a lot! This is exactly what I will do. I have been thinking about this for a long time I even tried bending a clamp but this is a very nice solution.
 
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