Extent to deburr edges

Hello All.

I've read many a thread to try to get a sense of how far to go in deburring. The opinions seem to vary anywhere between: (a) as long as you can't cut yourself you're fine OR (b) round all edges very smooth.

To get to all edges very smooth and rounded can take me hours for a handful a ribs when I'm dealing with the flange relief cut notches and trying to get a tool in there to shape enough material. Using the emery cloth strip shoeshine approach.

One thing I can't wrap my head around is the transition from the flange side surface to it's top cut edge. In the pics below, you can see the area I'm wondering about. I've used the horizontal stab flange to illustrate it as clearly as I could.

I think it may have something to do with the end of the alclad on the flange side face. If I run my fingernail up from there it does catch every so slightly. But to remove this it seems like I need to do endless deburring and keep whatever tool/abrasive I'm using at a very shallow angle.

This particular stab flange edge has already been deburred on the large scothbrite wheel in bench grinder.

What does everyone think, do I need to remove any signs of a catch of the fingernail?

Thanks in advance for your help!

You should not be able to "catch" a fingernail. You should be able to run your finger along any edge in any direction and it should not feel scratchy.

Insufficient deburring is the most common thing I find during Tech Counselor inspections.

Mel, Ok thanks.

It seems like I've got to figure something better out with my technique then. On long continuous flanges like the horizontal stab in the pictures it would probably go relatively quickly.

On the ribs, for the flange relief notches on the inside transition on the circular area and the inside transitions along the sides of the rib flanges I can't even seem to get shallow enough with the emery cloth strip to get this to the point of absolutely no slight nail catch. Same with swivel deburr tool. Just seems like it's where the alclad ends on the corresponding surface.

Sumit

sumitku said:

Mel, Ok thanks.
It seems like I've got to figure something better out with my technique then. On long continuous flanges like the horizontal stab in the pictures it would probably go relatively quickly.
On the ribs, for the flange relief notches on the inside transition on the circular area and the inside transitions along the sides of the rib flanges I can't even seem to get shallow enough with the emery cloth strip to get this to the point of absolutely no slight nail catch. Same with swivel deburr tool. Just seems like it's where the alclad ends on the corresponding surface.
Sumit

Click to expand...

A chain saw sharpening file works great for the small notches in the ribs.

Great thanks for the tip!

I have tried a set of needle files I've got that seem like effectively equivalent as a tool to a chain saw file, but perhaps I just need to perfect my technique.

I've had great results in tight corners with this stuff:

https://www.amazon.com/Mitchell-Abr...&qid=1500925476&sr=8-4&keywords=abrasive+cord

second the rope

I used the rope and flat strips and they worked well. I am not sure how this can be shortcut-ed. For the spar flanges I used a butterfly deburring tool and a sanding block with 220 grit. YMMV

Thanks guys.

I also just got a dremel rubber polishing tip that should be able to get into tight spaces so I'll see how that works or otherwise order some abrasive cord.

https://www.dremel.com/en_US/products/-/show-product/accessories/462-rubber-polishing-cone-point

It's very hard to explain. The only way to feel a "catch" is to run your finger up the side of the flange at a very shallow angle until you approach the edge and then it "just catches" every so slightly.

Filing this or using an emery cloth strip at anything more than say 15 degrees of angle seems to do nothing to address it.