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Brake pedals sticky, problem?

Sig600

Well Known Member
I'm installing the rudder pedals, and installed the brake pedals today. They seem to be really right, and I didn't wrench down on the bolts. Question is, will this be a problem? Is there enough rebound in the brake actuators to overcome this or is it a potential problem to cause the brakes to stick?
 
There has been a lot of info on this issue over the years, one of the fixes is to use a single long bolt to go through the pedals. As things are now, the tabs can be misaligned enough to make things bind up a bit.

Try searching for this.
 
IMHO, after you assemble your rudder pedals, and before you attach them to the brake master cylinders, they should "flop around freely", with essentially no friction, throughout the intended range of movement.

Keep fiddling until they do.
 
You can also search for 'brake return springs'
for another view on the problem.
I thought my brake pedals were free, but on
my first inspection my right side brake pads
were worn more than the left side. I added
return springs and now have even wear.
Tom
 
I fussed with mine for a long time getting them not to bind. including installing return helper springs. Then I went with the long single bolt through both mounting tabs. I used all thread, the correct length AN bolt would be better. Works good, no binding.

Agree that they shoud flop freely. It takes very little resistance to hold pressure on the cylinder and drag a brake.
 
I bought a finished RV-9A and was amazed at the high amount of brake drag.

I did both the single long bolt and the return spring thing and they now work great. Those two "upgrades" are easy.

That said, it would be a lot easier if the builder would have done them during the build.
 
I built mine per Vans. I don't have very many hours on them yet, BUT no binding or drag. I did however take my time to ensure the bolts were installed in alignment.
 
Tried searching, probably didn't hit the right key words.

Thanks for the advice... looks like I have more work to do...
 
Tried searching, probably didn't hit the right key words.

One thing a lot of folks miss in searching, in the box labeled "options" re-set the time to "any", as it defaults to a year ago or less.

Be sure you are using the advanced search also.
 
The thing that is really binding them up us using a washer between the tab and the edge of the pedal. If I lose that washer am I at risk for anything?

I'll also have to cut my cotter pins, is safety wired acceptable?

I'll have to figure out how to make this work... all I can think of is to break out the scotchbrite and remove some material to narrow the pedals just a bit so there is no rubbing.

I like that return spring setup, who sells those?
 
sig, Pretty sure I found an appropriate spring at Pep Boys. Its a fairly common size for hardware store stuff.

Fly on
 
Still good information after all these years.

Just to kick this thread down the temporal road a bit - I had to remove my -7 rudder pedal assy and was checking for complete release of the Matco masters while at it. It turned out that, the pedals were quite tight in the pivots, installation of the long bolts with a little axial clearance left them really floppy - just right. I applied low pressure air to the inlet side of the master cylinders and then depressed the brake pedal and released slowly. Both sides always returned to allow airflow, meaning they fully uncovered the fill ports and will prevent dragging. I have return springs on hand, but will not add them since this seems to have avoid any issue.
 
That's normal for me because, when taxiing, I have to drag the right brake a lot to counteract torque/p-factor.

I think you likely have something else causing a turning tendency because Pfactor/torque induced turning tendency at taxi speed is nearly non-existent.

You likely have a dragging left brake of a main wheel alignment issue.
 
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