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  #1  
Old 01-09-2019, 03:13 PM
AndrewBS AndrewBS is offline
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Belen, NM
Posts: 19
Default RV-8 style gear for RV-3?

Has anyone put an RV-3 on an RV-8-style spring-leaf main gear?

I know it would require the design/fab of a gear box, but would it be worthwhile? I'm building an RV-3 from scratch using 'legacy' plans (from the 70s, and yes, the B-wing mods are included), and have been thinking along these lines for a better gear or rougher fields.

Many thanks in advance for y'all's thoughts.
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  #2  
Old 01-09-2019, 05:01 PM
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JonJay JonJay is offline
 
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Why do you think itís better?

The gear mounting location is drastically different. Motor mount vs fuselage mount. I would think it might impact your cg dramatically. It would require a lot of re-engineering. I donít understand what there is to gain.

The one and only (minor) dislike I have about the 8 tailwheel is the location of the gear. It looks a bit awkward compared to other models. It just isnít as balanced in appearance. It still looks ok on the 8 with its long fuselage, but the stubby 3 might not sport it well.
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  #3  
Old 01-09-2019, 05:45 PM
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Larry DeCamp Larry DeCamp is offline
 
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Default Your search is over 😊

Contact HFS, he is building a 3B with Grove legs .
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  #4  
Old 01-09-2019, 05:48 PM
rv7charlie rv7charlie is offline
 
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Location: Pocahontas MS
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Can't address the -3's ruggedness, but the -4 is pretty tough. If you want really tough, why not see if the guys who make the Rocket gear would make you a set. IIRC, it's a titanium leg. You could get a longer gear in the bargain, if you have the mount's socket angles adjusted to keep the axles in the right place.

I'm not a fan of the -8 gear, either. Appearance is largely personal taste, but ask an -8 owner how much he enjoys checking those mount bolts at annual. At least some of the -8 owners I know consider the gear far less forgiving than the Whitman style gear on the other models. Then there's the intrusion into your 'personal space' in the cockpit. :-)

Last, I'd think that tweaking the stock design would be a lot more 'do-able' than such a radical change in all the load paths.

Charlie
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  #5  
Old 01-09-2019, 06:05 PM
Scott Hersha Scott Hersha is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Cincinnati, OH
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I agree with JonJ. The RV3 gear looks better, as do all engine mount based tapered rod RV taildraggers. Not only that, it is a better system I terms of maintenance and landing manners - in my humble opinion. I just finished an annual on my friends (JT) RV8 and had to torque those outer saddle clamps bolts from H_LL. The front ones were easy, relatively, but the aft ones took me almost 2 hours. This is a design flaw in my opinion. On my RV8, I’ve installed Bruce B’s bolt head clips that capture the bolt head in the landing gear tower weldment, with the bolt installed from the top down. I also installed them on my first RV8 after experiencing the agony of torquing these nasty nuts 3 times before making this easy mod. The clip holds the bolt head from turning, so all you have to do is torque the nuts from the bottom, as it should be. It takes me about 60 seconds to torque all four of these on my airplane. The bolt and nut is completely hidden by the upper intersection fairing - I have the Fairings, Etc fairings.

Sorry for the rant, but I think the designed landing gear for the RV3 (4,6,7,9) is fine as it is, and it looks better to boot.
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Last edited by Scott Hersha : 01-09-2019 at 06:11 PM.
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  #6  
Old 01-09-2019, 06:39 PM
ArlingtonRV ArlingtonRV is offline
 
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Location: Marysville, WA
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Default Not to hijcak the thread, but...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Hersha View Post
Bruce Bís bolt head clips
Would you provide some further information on these clips? Where, and indeed can, they be acquired?

Thanks - and now back to your regularly scheduled programming.
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  #7  
Old 01-09-2019, 07:13 PM
Scott Hersha Scott Hersha is offline
 
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Steve,
Iíll tell Bruce thereís an interest for some more. Heís sold several and he can spool up the machine to make more if thereís interest, so Iíll connect him to this post and he will get in touch. They work great. You have to pull the bolts out to insert them from the other direction and this can be done just sitting on the ground - try not to move the plane, and do them one at a time. You may have to Ďcoaxí the bolts out/in and I did that with a rivet gun and an offset driver set on the lowest pressure setting to just sort of Ďthumpí on them to get them into position. As you insert them from the top you may need to stop just short of engagement with the clip and use a 9/16 wrench to align the flats before pushing it home. Trust me, this is the last time you will ever have to get in that gear tower other than to look in there with an inspection mirror during your condition inspection to look for lost stuff. Itís taken the gear tower off my hit list for airplane design.
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RV6/2001 built/sold 2005
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  #8  
Old 01-09-2019, 09:11 PM
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DanH DanH is offline
 
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Ok, so a new gear tower structure for an RV-3 would put the nuts on the bottom. There, fixed.

No more bent firewalls. No more cracked mount tubes. No more wheels that wobble and wiggle and shimmy and shake.

Devil's advocate, over and out.
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  #9  
Old 01-09-2019, 09:15 PM
rmarshall234 rmarshall234 is offline
 
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Location: San Diego, CA
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What about gear shimmy with the stock tapered gear arrangement though? That was a constant problem with my -3. I think the Grove Gear would be a considerable improvement in regards to shimmy. Should also be gun-drilled, which eliminates the need for external brake lines. Those are two big improvements in my mind.
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  #10  
Old 01-09-2019, 09:47 PM
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Toobuilder Toobuilder is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanH View Post
Ok, so a new gear tower structure for an RV-3 would put the nuts on the bottom. There, fixed...
But if the -3 is like the -4 and Rocket and features the central keel, then you are going to have almost no room for your feet once you add the -8 gear towers. At least the -8 has the center of the floor free and its still intrusive.
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