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Wing jig

HeliCooper

Well Known Member
For those who have been working on the wings did you build a wing stand/jig to hold them? Would you recommend building one again? Do you have any plans?

Thanks,

Jim
 
Jig

Maybe the 14 doesn't need a jig. I wouldn't have built my 7 wings without one. Mine is in my blog. I used plans from another builder. Rock solid.
 
Prepunched

Are the ribs and skins pre-punched on the seven?

Yes they are pre-punched. I know the wings can be build without a jig and many do it but the manual recommends a jig. The wing can be twisted with clekos in place quite easily so it may be possible to build in twist. That said, I'm no engineer nor did I stay in that hotel recently.
I'm a bit over cautious so mine will stay in the jigs till the bottom skins are riveted. I may just leave them there to work on ailerons and flaps too.
 
I Believe the -10 wings are very similar and no jig is recommended.

I used 4 saw horses to support the spar. Shimmed everything up to square using a digital level. I haven't flown yet but when I rigged the wings onto the stubs, I didn't need to adjust the rear spar hole at all and I couldn't find anything more than 1mm or 0.1deg out and I measured it to within an inch of its life!
 
For those who have been working on the wings did you build a wing stand/jig to hold them? Would you recommend building one again? Do you have any plans?

Thanks,

Jim

No jig is required. You can build them on horizontally on a bench. I did find it was easier to rivet the bottom skins vertically sitting in the cart. You will need a car/stand to store your wings until the fuselage is finished.

FP16112010A000CK.jpg
 
No jig required for the 10 wing..

..and I've heard the 14 wing is similar. However, as Bob said above, I secured mine when working on my bench(es) - req'd 2 end to end.. This way, nothing moves, the spar stays straight, etc. Once the skeleton was riveted, I found it was easiest to work with the wings in their stand (same as Bob). In fact, my wings are still in the stand waiting for me to rivet on the bottom skins.
 
I used independently adjustable (in rotation) stands at each end. Every time a wing went onto them, I leveled both ends to ensure no twist in the spar.
FP29052012A0001R.jpg


Inboard detail:
FP29052012A0001S.jpg


Outboard detail:
FP29052012A0001T.jpg
 
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