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Locking rudder counterweight nuts

GeraldC

Active Member
I just mounted the rudder counterweight to the counterweight rib, and it looks like once the top rib and fairing is installed, the counterweight screws will still still be accessible from the bottom, but the nuts will not be accessible from the top. I didn't expect to find hardware like this that could not be checked for torque after assembly.

Are there any recommended tips for hardware like this? I know that thread locker is generally discouraged as it throws off subsequent torque readings, but should it be used here? Or do I just torque it down and build on? What's everyone else doing for this?
 
In areas like this I prefer to see steel lock nuts. I will still put a drop of Blue loctite at the thread to nut contact point after torque and also use torque seal. :)
 
I suspect that soft lead eventually squishes thinner and reduces the initial torque. Wish I would have used blue or maybe even red loctite and/or covered the whole nut in pro seal or something. That said, no problems yet for me after 160 hours.
 
Wow, thanks for the link! That's exactly what I was concerned about. The lead could compress and loosen the screw, then the screw could back out into the gap between the rudder and the stabilizer.

Pro-Seal or Loctite sounds like a reasonable option, but it seems better if someone could turn the screw on the outside and actually tighten it instead of just causing the nut to spin. It would be easy to notch the countersunk holes in the lead weight to fit nutplates, then fabricate an aluminum strip connecting them together. Then they could be checked or tightened at any time. Would that be a reasonable method?
 
Something that that could be done for sure. Some are just attaching the cap with#6 screws making it inspection friendly/serviceable. :)
 
Wow, thanks for the link! That's exactly what I was concerned about. The lead could compress and loosen the screw, then the screw could back out into the gap between the rudder and the stabilizer.

Pro-Seal or Loctite sounds like a reasonable option, but it seems better if someone could turn the screw on the outside and actually tighten it instead of just causing the nut to spin. It would be easy to notch the countersunk holes in the lead weight to fit nutplates, then fabricate an aluminum strip connecting them together. Then they could be checked or tightened at any time. Would that be a reasonable method?

What about those click bond nutplates? Will they permanently adhere to the lead? Seems like a good idea if they never come lose from the lead.
 
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