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Missed some rivets on aileron, any hope?

1001001

Well Known Member
I began closing up my left wing aileron this evening and after I triumphantly set all 45 rivets that secure the upper skin to the spar, I flipped the aileron over to install the bottom skin and found that I had missed setting some of the rivets that hold the nose skin to the ribs. Specifically, the five AN426 rivets that hold the skin to the outboard and inboard ribs on the bottom. I had apparently set the ones on the middle rib but missed the outboard and inboard.

There is no way I can access these to set these nose rivets short of drilling out all 45 top skin rivets and the 9 pulled rivets that hold the spar to the nose ribs.

I am trying to decide whether there is an acceptable pulled rivet that can be placed in the spaces I have missed. I know the forward most two rib rivets on the top nose skin are pulled rivets (I pulled those already) and wonder if the MK-319-BS rivets used there can also be used on the bottoms inboard and outboard ribs. From what I have found on those rivets, they have a shear strength of 258 lbf and a tensile strength of 292 lbf (source: http://fasteners.oemfast.com/item/all-categories/pop-open-end-rivets/md319bs). The shear number is comparable favorably to an AN426AD3 rivet but I think the tensile strength falls short?

Any ideas? I really don't want to have to drill out all these rivets if it's not necessary.
 
I would check with builder support at the mothership, but I'm reasonably sure they will tell you MK-319BS are fine. If you use them, a #33 or #34 reamer or bit will size the hole up for the rivet. They sit slightly proud in a standard dimple - if skin is thick enough a slight countersink will fix that (again check with builder support). Of course a CS4-4 as someone else suggested requires a #30 hole and appropriate size countersink (or dimple but that doesn't apply in your situation). I'm not sure if the rivets you link to are the same as MK-319BS - they have a different designation. Van's sells the MK-319BS and my understanding is that they are structurally strong.
 
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If I find I cannot get in for an AN426-3 rivet without risking a bucky ding, I use these

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/CCC32cherryRivets.php

They will not be as strong as a bucked AN426, however I would rather have a properly pulled Cherry, nice and snug than either drill out and re rivet or not get an AN set correctly.

We are talking of a few rivets here and there.... not building the whole project.

Build on !

I think I actually have a few of these in a box somewhere...I?ll check with builder support but this looks like a good option.

Thanks for all the replies!
 
If I find I cannot get in for an AN426-3 rivet without risking a bucky ding, I use these

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/CCC32cherryRivets.php

They will not be as strong as a bucked AN426, however I would rather have a properly pulled Cherry, nice and snug than either drill out and re rivet or not get an AN set correctly.

We are talking of a few rivets here and there.... not building the whole project.

Build on !

I don't think these come close to MK-321BS in strength. MK-321BS is monel which is a very strong steel-like alloy
 
An A&P/IA friend has recommended the following rivets for this application:

20181124_112220-2132586620-576x1024.jpg


SkyGeek carries them, but Aircraft Spruce and Wick's do not appear to.

https://www.skygeek.com/cherry-aerospace-cr3214-4-02-rivet-blind-flush-hd-100pk.html


For the inboard rib, where the rib thickness is only 0.025" the -1 grip length is probably needed:
https://www.skygeek.com/cherry-aerospace-cr3214-4-1-rivet-blind-flush-hd-100pk.html
 
I don't think these come close to MK-321BS in strength. MK-321BS is monel which is a very strong steel-like alloy

They are pretty close... 4% less in tensile and 11% in shear - slightly less because they fit the same #40 hole.

They are stainless.
 
My project had the ailerons closed when I bought it, but they had not been inspected, which in Canada is a nono. I had to open them. It was a non event. Took an hour. I center punched each rivet and drilled them out with a #41 drill, not a #40. I used a punch to snap off the heads. I did not elongate a single hole. Re-riveting will go quickly. That is the easiest solution believe it or not.

Builds character and you'll be more careful before you close the next surface. We've all done it . Well except me of course. Hey, why is my nose growing??? :p

Oh actually I had to open both ailerons, both elevators and the rudder! I dreaded it, lost sleep, then had it done in an afternoon.
 
My project had the ailerons closed when I bought it, but they had not been inspected, which in Canada is a nono. I had to open them. It was a non event. Took an hour. I center punched each rivet and drilled them out with a #41 drill, not a #40. I used a punch to snap off the heads. I did not elongate a single hole. Re-riveting will go quickly. That is the easiest solution believe it or not.

Builds character and you'll be more careful before you close the next surface. We've all done it . Well except me of course. Hey, why is my nose growing??? :p

Oh actually I had to open both ailerons, both elevators and the rudder! I dreaded it, lost sleep, then had it done in an afternoon.

Yeah, I have gotten quite adept at drilling out rivets, but I prefer not to risk any damage if I don't have to.
 
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