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  #11  
Old 03-21-2011, 02:18 PM
Wayne Gillispie Wayne Gillispie is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: USA
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Default Good to have done one first then the other Bill.

I have been doing a little on one door, then a little on the other to catch up. More than one way to skin an RV. There both finally on and the friction is low enough on everything to open/close with medium hand pressure. It will either loosen as I work with it or I will use some rolled up 180 grit to bore the holes out some more.

Now on to the 110 lb strut then the McMaster seal or should I do the seal then the strut??? How did the rest of you do it. It is going to get dusty in here again and more fiberglass strips to build up as needed for approx 5/16" between door inner shell and cabin cover flange sticking up. That should compress the 3/8" bulb about 1/2 way down.
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  #12  
Old 03-21-2011, 03:35 PM
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rleffler rleffler is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wayne Gillispie View Post
Now on to the 110 lb strut then the McMaster seal or should I do the seal then the strut??? How did the rest of you do it. It is going to get dusty in here again and more fiberglass strips to build up as needed for approx 5/16" between door inner shell and cabin cover flange sticking up. That should compress the 3/8" bulb about 1/2 way down.

Take a look at Ivan Kristensen's Phanfare site. I don't have the link handy, but I'm sure google will find it. He has quite a few photos on the subject.

bob
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  #13  
Old 03-22-2011, 02:21 PM
Strasnuts Strasnuts is offline
 
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Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
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Default installation pics

Here is a great documented installation if it helps.

http://www.rvten.com/finish9.asp
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  #14  
Old 03-22-2011, 08:25 PM
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Bill.Peyton Bill.Peyton is offline
 
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I just finished completely installing Sean's kit PRIOR to bonding the door halves. It came out great, and took a lot less time. You just have to be careful with getting wild on the epoxy. I epoxied the stiffeners in place on the inside door prior to bonding the doors. I used masking tape over the rack holes and tied a string to each piece. After the door was on the fuse I pulled the string and removed the tape. Now I don't have a door to repair!
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  #15  
Old 03-23-2011, 03:58 AM
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rleffler rleffler is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill.Peyton View Post
I just finished completely installing Sean's kit PRIOR to bonding the door halves. It came out great, and took a lot less time. You just have to be careful with getting wild on the epoxy. I epoxied the stiffeners in place on the inside door prior to bonding the doors. I used masking tape over the rack holes and tied a string to each piece. After the door was on the fuse I pulled the string and removed the tape. Now I don't have a door to repair!
Bill,

I was looking at your photos on Kitlog. Without the holes in the interior door, how are you going to get the pins back in those rack holes? Just curious......

bob
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  #16  
Old 03-23-2011, 06:48 AM
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Bill.Peyton Bill.Peyton is offline
 
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Bob,
Believe it or not, once you get the middle rack attached to the rear piece of tubing with it's pin, you can get the rack installed throught the rear hole. You stand the door on end, hold it from the end, and it drops right in the rack assy. I still need to cut the .5" access hole to attach the front rack to the middle rack with it's quick release pin that is provided in the kit.
Bill
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  #17  
Old 03-23-2011, 06:56 AM
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rleffler rleffler is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill.Peyton View Post
Bob,
Believe it or not, once you get the middle rack attached to the rear piece of tubing with it's pin, you can get the rack installed throught the rear hole. You stand the door on end, hold it from the end, and it drops right in the rack assy. I still need to cut the .5" access hole to attach the front rack to the middle rack with it's quick release pin that is provided in the kit.
Bill
Those holes were the ones I was looking for......

bob
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  #18  
Old 04-13-2017, 11:02 AM
Bill Boyd Bill Boyd is offline
 
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Location: Landing field "12VA"
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Default Reviving old thread cuz I've arrived at this point

Cabin top is on. Doors next. Ordered Sean's latch kit a minute ago. Looks like I will attempt the latch kit install before the doors are sealed up.

Should I plan on adding any reinforcement to stiffen the doors, or are they generally deemed satisfactory as-is?

My other puzzlement is whether to roll my own overhead panel or give Geoff some well-deserved ROI on his tooling and development work. I want one, but have to hold the line on cost somewhere in this build. It looks daunting-but-doable to make my own plug, pull a mold off it and lay up my own overhead panel. What a learning experience that could turn into... might learn some new blue words I have settled on an AeroSport carbon panel, center console and throttle quadrant, and interior finish bits, seats from Abby, etc. But the overhead looks like something I could take a stab at - if my time were worth not much and the experience was considered part of the ride.

I'm wracking my brain for ideas of everyday items I can cobble together with blue foam and modeling clay to make a plug. Could end up with something that looks like Dr. Seuss-inspired impressionist recycled junk art. But it will be one of a kind
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  #19  
Old 04-13-2017, 11:34 AM
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ERushing ERushing is offline
 
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Several others have rolled their own. Look at Justin Twilbeck's build log. He's a recent example. It doesn't look insurmountable.

For me, I went with Geoff's overhead. I'm a slow builder to begin with and trying to do that on my own with rudimentary fiberglass skills while trying to make it look professional.... I might not have finished the overhead for months! Heck! I'm still working on the doors and cabin top after 3+ months!
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  #20  
Old 04-13-2017, 11:39 AM
rvdave rvdave is offline
 
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I think the only way I would roll my own overhead would be if the cabinet top were able to be placed upside down for fitting a mold or forming a layup. Otherwise Geoff's overhead is a nice piece of work and was a nice fit to my cabin top with minimal extra work.
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