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  #21  
Old 04-21-2010, 08:00 PM
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GAHco GAHco is offline
 
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Post AN3-58's Best Wishes!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil View Post
Hey Jim,

I'm having a hard time finding a source for AN3-58's, so I'm kinda excited that the bolts didn't make that much difference.

One of the lessons I think I learned in this exercise is that the bolt axis on each side of the pedal are clearly misaligned. This creates binding. I think you could bend them so they are aligned and then use the standard hardware and be fine.

Do you have any photos of your return spring mod? That sounds like a pretty cools option and affordable too.
AN3-58's Best Wishes!

An AN3-57 is nominally 5 and 7/8" long plus a little for the washer. So the next length is 6 and 0/8ths long, correctly called out as an AN3-60.

The last number in your basic AN bolt never ends in 8 or 9, since the lengths are octal based. Just a lil info.
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  #22  
Old 04-21-2010, 09:09 PM
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Ha! That explains it.

I never thought of that before!
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  #23  
Old 04-21-2010, 09:50 PM
OceanBob OceanBob is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GAHco View Post
AN3-58's Best Wishes!

An AN3-57 is nominally 5 and 7/8" long plus a little for the washer. So the next length is 6 and 0/8ths long, correctly called out as an AN3-60.

The last number in your basic AN bolt never ends in 8 or 9, since the lengths are octal based. Just a lil info.
Thanks Tom for that reminder lesson......!

Bob
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  #24  
Old 04-22-2010, 12:17 PM
FredMagare FredMagare is offline
 
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Not trying to hi-jack a thread but I had a quick question that's pertinent here: Rather than spend $90 on bolts, would it be feasible to cut an appropriate length from an appropriate diameter rod and cut threads to accept nuts (locknuts or cottered) on both ends? Seems a simple matter to fabricate something more suitable ourselves after all the other stuff we've built.

<standing by...>
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  #25  
Old 04-22-2010, 09:00 PM
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GAHco GAHco is offline
 
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Talking Each option has it's cost.

Quote:
Originally Posted by FredMagare View Post
Not trying to hi-jack a thread but I had a quick question that's pertinent here: Rather than spend $90 on bolts, would it be feasible to cut an appropriate length from an appropriate diameter rod and cut threads to accept nuts (locknuts or cottered) on both ends? Seems a simple matter to fabricate something more suitable ourselves after all the other stuff we've built.

<standing by...>
We are airplane builders, with the right tools and materials we can fix anything. How well depends on skill and materials, and oh yeh, time too.

Somethings I do the long way for the challenge and it beats being at real work.

Other things are great to just install right out of the factory package.
Each option has it's cost.
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  #26  
Old 04-23-2010, 10:08 AM
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Fred,

Read the earlier post on the top of pg 2 for this thread. That's exactly what I did.
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  #27  
Old 04-24-2010, 10:49 AM
FredMagare FredMagare is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trib View Post
Fred,

Read the earlier post on the top of pg 2 for this thread. That's exactly what I did.
Thanks! I should have spent more time reading all the posts. Any problems with your fabrication and setup? Has the brass rod held up well?
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  #28  
Old 04-24-2010, 07:37 PM
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Only 55 hrs on it at this point, but it looks like new
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  #29  
Old 04-25-2010, 10:54 AM
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Default Ref post #10 from Jim in this thread

I am still building a RV-8. I put some half round aluminum brake extensions (like the long bolt idea) on the bottom of my brake pedals. Was wondering if the spring thing would be worth while (or even works) on the 8? Does anybody know by chance? Thanks. Dave
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  #30  
Old 04-29-2010, 06:54 AM
Airhead Airhead is offline
 
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Thanks Jim, you made it easy. I googled McMaster as you suggested and cut and pasted the part numbers and presto, compiled an order. Total current price $15.90. I think I'll try the springs and then see if I can thread 3/16" brass rod.
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