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  #11  
Old 04-20-2010, 06:04 PM
trib trib is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Virginia Beach, VA
Posts: 470
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One of the most useful tools during my build was a 3/16" chainsaw sharpening file- craftsman. Anytime I had a tightly fitting AN-3 bolt, a few quick passes with the file made a perfect fit. I used this on my brake peddle assemblies to get a straight axis. Just pass it through both ends of each assembly at the same time and it will then pass the bolt smoothly. Instead of the AN bolts, I used 3/16" brass rod cut to length and then threaded on each end using a die. I installed castellated nuts and cotter pins to capture them and not put any compression on the assembly. This worked very smoothly. The local hardware store had the brass rod at 3' for a few dollars. These also made great alignment pins for the wing spar when fitting it up!
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  #12  
Old 04-20-2010, 06:29 PM
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schristo@mac.com schristo@mac.com is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: WA
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Default very little rotation

i don't think that there is much potential for binding from rotation here... when the brakes are filled and free of air the total movement of the pedal is around a quarter of an inch... pretty much an imperceptible amount of rotation at the bolt. if there is brake drag additional spring force on the brake cylinder arm to fully close the valve is likely a more effective solution.
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RV7 powered by a lycoming thunderbolt IO-390
turning a whirlwind HRT prop

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Last edited by schristo@mac.com : 04-20-2010 at 06:52 PM.
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  #13  
Old 04-20-2010, 06:43 PM
jsharkey jsharkey is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Bennington, Vermont USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schristo@mac.com View Post
i don't think that there is much potential for binding from rotation here... when the brakes are filled and free of air the total movement of the pedal is around a quarter of an inch... pretty much an imperceptible amount of rotation at the bolt. if there is brake drag additional spring force to on the brake cylinder arm to fully close the valve is likely a more effective solution.
Yup - Bingo - Bravo - etc

That's my experience - you just need to pull the master cylinder back a smidge to relieve the pressure on the brake rotor. It relaxes on it's own over time but the springs sure do help.

Jim Sharkey
RV-6
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  #14  
Old 04-20-2010, 06:47 PM
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Phil Phil is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Waco, Texas
Posts: 1,600
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I'm going to add the springs and you caught me just in time as I'm currently installing the master cylinders...

BTW: I can't fit an AN-3 bolt through the hole in the shaft of the Matco cylinders. I'm assuming you should ream the hole out.... Anyone else run into that problem?

I'm headed to Lowes at the second to see if I can find some springs and collars..

Phil
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  #15  
Old 04-20-2010, 06:50 PM
jsharkey jsharkey is offline
 
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Location: Bennington, Vermont USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil View Post
I'm going to add the springs and you caught me just in time as I'm currently installing the master cylinders...

BTW: I can't fit an AN-3 bolt through the hole in the shaft of the Matco cylinders. I'm assuming you should ream the hole out.... Anyone else run into that problem?

I'm headed to Lowes at the second to see if I can find some springs and collars..

Phil
That surprises me - so open it up as little as needed.

PS - Google McMaster-Carr on line - they market way more than Lowes or Home Depot
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  #16  
Old 04-20-2010, 06:54 PM
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Phil Phil is offline
 
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Location: Waco, Texas
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Yeah you can fit the threads through, but when you get to the grip segment of the bolt it's a solid fit. You can't squeeze it through.

Unless someone else has an idea, I'm going to open them up with a #12 reamer and see how that works.
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  #17  
Old 04-21-2010, 09:56 AM
trib trib is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Virginia Beach, VA
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I had the same problem with getting the bolt thru the master cylinder. Like I mentioned, the 3/16" chainsaw files works wonders! I used it to get the bolt to fit.
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  #18  
Old 04-21-2010, 10:15 AM
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jjconstant jjconstant is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Oakland CA
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Default dumb question time

How do you get the spring on an already flying plane? My brakes drag a bit. Not so much that I can't get it in and out of the hangar.

Jeremy Constant
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  #19  
Old 04-21-2010, 10:18 AM
Lars Lars is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Davis, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjconstant View Post
How do you get the spring on an already flying plane? My brakes drag a bit. Not so much that I can't get it in and out of the hangar.

Jeremy Constant
My guess would be that you lie on your back in an unflattering position while removing the master cylinders, installing the springs & collars, then reinstalling the master cylinders. But that's only a guess

BTW, I sent you a PM.
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Last edited by Lars : 04-21-2010 at 10:25 AM. Reason: added second line
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  #20  
Old 04-21-2010, 11:44 AM
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jjconstant jjconstant is offline
 
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Location: Oakland CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lars View Post
My guess would be that you lie on your back in an unflattering position while removing the master cylinders, installing the springs & collars, then reinstalling the master cylinders. But that's only a guess

BTW, I sent you a PM.
I "assumed the position" just recently to un-install and then re-install my auto pilot. I view it at one of the more advanced RV yoga postures, but the real masters know all of the appropriate words for the RV yoga chants and mantras

Jeremy
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