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  #1  
Old 04-20-2010, 10:43 AM
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Phil Phil is offline
 
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Default Rudder Pedals: Long Bolt Trick

I'm installing the rudder pedals and I ordered the AN3-56 bolts for the standard long-bolt modification.

I was in the process of installing the bolts and found that the holes are not aligned.

Is the other half of the 'trick' bending the pedal flanges in to make the holes align and then filling the gap with AN960-10 washers?

Thanks,
Phil


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  #2  
Old 04-20-2010, 11:09 AM
Lars Lars is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil View Post
I'm installing the rudder pedals and I ordered the AN3-56 bolts for the standard long-bolt modification.

I was in the process of installing the bolts and found that the holes are not aligned.

Is the other half of the 'trick' bending the pedal flanges in to make the holes align and then filling the gap with AN960-10 washers?

Thanks,
Phil
That's how I did mine. Removes all the bind.
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  #3  
Old 04-20-2010, 12:36 PM
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marchudson marchudson is offline
 
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Phil

I would do as you suggested, bend the flanges in to make the holes align. Luckily, mine were aligned so no bending required. Good luck.
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  #4  
Old 04-20-2010, 12:52 PM
DGlaeser DGlaeser is offline
 
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Default An alternative

Yup - it's sheet metal, bend to align.
Being frugal (those long bolts are expensive), I took a piece of aluminum rod - don't recall where it came from or exact diameter, but it was big enough to drill and tap for the AN bolts. I cut it to fit inside the flanges - one really long nut for both bolts, with washers under the head and 'nut'. A drop of locktite on the bolt threads and you are good to go.
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  #5  
Old 04-20-2010, 01:33 PM
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I bent it to shape and everything looks fine....

but................

AN3-56's are too short for the RV-10 pedals.

I just bought $45 worth of bolts and now I am going to have to reorder if I want the mod.

Anyone need a good deal on four AN3-56's?

I might just scrap the long bolt idea and go with the standard factory setup. It stupid to spend $90 on 8 bolts.
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  #6  
Old 04-20-2010, 03:39 PM
jsharkey jsharkey is offline
 
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For what it's worth I just did the long bolt and return spring mod on my RV6.

I did the bolts first and they didn't make much difference. Adding the return springs was like going from night to day.

Jim Sharkey
RV-6
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  #7  
Old 04-20-2010, 03:45 PM
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BSwayze BSwayze is offline
 
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I saw in a previous thread on this subject that a long drill bit should be used to drill through to the other side, drilling both sides at once. This insures a straight hole for the long bolt and both sides will line up without any binding. That's what I did on my 7A and it works great. By the way, the AN3-56's were just the right size for my 7A, if anyone else is wondering.
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  #8  
Old 04-20-2010, 04:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsharkey View Post
I did the bolts first and they didn't make much difference. Adding the return springs was like going from night to day.
Hey Jim,

I'm having a hard time finding a source for AN3-58's, so I'm kinda excited that the bolts didn't make that much difference.

One of the lessons I think I learned in this exercise is that the bolt axis on each side of the pedal are clearly misaligned. This creates binding. I think you could bend them so they are aligned and then use the standard hardware and be fine.

Do you have any photos of your return spring mod? That sounds like a pretty cools option and affordable too.
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  #9  
Old 04-20-2010, 04:31 PM
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Low Pass Low Pass is offline
 
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You don't have to use bolts/fasteners. I used 1/4 dia spring steel (piano wire). Ground a flat on each end and used set screw collars. Loctite'd in place. No problem for almost 10 years. Total cost - nothing to me. I had this stuff laying around the shop. Maybe $8-10 if you had to go buy it.
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  #10  
Old 04-20-2010, 04:52 PM
jsharkey jsharkey is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil View Post
Hey Jim,

I'm having a hard time finding a source for AN3-58's, so I'm kinda excited that the bolts didn't make that much difference.

One of the lessons I think I learned in this exercise is that the bolt axis on each side of the pedal are clearly misaligned. This creates binding. I think you could bend them so they are aligned and then use the standard hardware and be fine.

Do you have any photos of your return spring mod? That sounds like a pretty cools option and affordable too.


McMaster-Carr part numbers below

6389K625 Nylon Bearing - 5 pack $2.26
9657K115 Steel Spring - 12 pack $6.00
9946K13 Aluminum Set Crew Collar - each $1.91

Less than 15 bucks with spares - Priceless!
For everything else there is ..............

PS - when I did the original installation with two short bolts per pedal I used some McMaster-Carr 95630A460 7/8" dia PTFE washers between the brake pedal and the rudder bar. This reduced binding considerably and perhaps accounted for the negligible effect of the long bolts when I eventually fitted them.

PPS - Did I say that the springs work really well?

Jim Sharkey
RV-6

Last edited by jsharkey : 04-20-2010 at 05:55 PM.
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