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  #1  
Old 04-13-2017, 06:58 PM
olderthandirt olderthandirt is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Lopez Island, Wa.
Posts: 174
Default Ducati regulater alternative

I have found a place that builds regulator/rectirier units in the U.S. and they say they are way stronger and less susceptible to faults than origainals...and when I asked they would make them so that failure was covered and not smoke in cockpit...now how good is that...I'm working with them as we speak for my RV regtulator...and they have the Ducati in for inspection...will keep all posted as I know everyone would like a improved unit over Ducati...
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  #2  
Old 04-14-2017, 08:38 AM
John-G John-G is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Northeast Ohio
Posts: 382
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by olderthandirt View Post
I have found a place that builds regulator/rectirier units in the U.S. and they say they are way stronger and less susceptible to faults than origainals...and when I asked they would make them so that failure was covered and not smoke in cockpit...now how good is that...I'm working with them as we speak for my RV regtulator...and they have the Ducati in for inspection...will keep all posted as I know everyone would like a improved unit over Ducati...
Older –
If you are having a company custom make a regulator for you I would suggest you have a few small details made in your favor.

First, make sure the company you are working with realizes that the regulator also needs to have built in rectification that can handle inputs as high as 240 volts AC … see paragraph 20 in the following reference:
http://www.rotax-owner.com/pdf/UNDERSTANDING%20THE%20914%20ROTAX.pdf

The total heat sinking capacity of the Ducati regulator is IMHO … anemic. I would have the regulator’s total current capacity designed to be higher than the Ducati regulator. As an example, the Silent Hektik regulator is rated for 47 amps. That does NOT mean the Rotax engine will supply 47 amps because it won’t … according to the Rotax documentation the internal electrical system on the ROTAX 912 only puts out 18 amps, so that is the max per Rotax. However, having the extra current capability worked into the design means the regulator will be designed to dissipate heat easier.

The Ducati regulator uses a potting resin on the base of the unit which does not make an even contact with the mounting surface. I would ask for the regulator to have a smooth aluminum bottom so it can dissipate heat through the bottom mounting surface as well as from the cooling fins … here again like the Silent Hektik regulator which has both a smooth bottom and well over 2X the cooling fin surface area compared to the Ducati unit.

I would also be curious to ask your manufacturer about the feasibility of soldering the high current devices with silver bearing solder which has a somewhat higher melting point. Some of the Ducati regulator photos looked to me as though the circuits were getting hot enough to melt regular solder.

As a side note: It has been suggested vibrations may also be a factor. I purchased high temperature silicone standoffs which I was going to use by piggy backing the regulator on a large heat sink and suspending the assembly on the silicone standoffs. But have not tried them out because I'm in the process of moving the regulator into the radiator's air duct and off the firewall shelf so don't think vibration will be as much of a factor at the new location compared to the firewall shelf or instrument panel base.

Good luck on your endeavors and keep us posted,
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Last edited by John-G : 04-14-2017 at 01:59 PM.
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  #3  
Old 04-14-2017, 10:12 AM
E. D. Eliot E. D. Eliot is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: San Pedro
Posts: 808
Default Standoffs

John - I am interested to know what your source for the standoff is - also the catalog numbers if you can find them.

I have reached the conclusion that as soon as I have my aircraft certification in hand, I will will make another set of fins which will be bolted to the bottom of the Bugatti. I will mount the whole setup inside of the cabin using standoffs. May even place a computer blower there as well.

Maybe overkill but the Bugatti needs all the help it can get in my opinion. My backup VR will be the European design for the 912. Time will tell if this works.
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  #4  
Old 04-14-2017, 12:22 PM
John-G John-G is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Northeast Ohio
Posts: 382
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E. D. Eliot View Post
John - I am interested to know what your source for the standoff is - also the catalog numbers if you can find them.
Ed –
The vibration isolators I was referring to were procured from McMaster-Carr. They are listed as Extreme-Temperature Vibration-Damping Sandwich Mounts. Not knowing what style I would ultimately use, I ordered two varieties. Mc master Carr part number 4403K133 and 4403K277 … one is male- female and the other is female –female. They have a Durometer hardness of 30A, are rated to 25 pounds each at a temp range of -80 to 300 degrees F which I figure would suit the engine compartment nicely.

The only downside is they are only available in 1/4 - 20 threads meaning the original nutplates can’t be used without fudging. I purchased the female-female versions thinking I could make a 1/4” stud with 1/4 -20 threads on one end and 1/4-28 threads on the other so the original mounting nutplates can be used. I did a lot of Internet searching and could not find any isolators that were available with 1/4- 28 threads that were rated for higher temperatures .

Then I decided it best to just relocate the regulator altogether and get it totally away from the outflow of the radiator and the vicinity of the #4 exhaust pipe. The idea being to relocate the regulator to the far left side of the firewall shelf and mount the regulator on isolators using a heat-sink back to back with the regulator and obtain cooling air using a scat tube from the radiator’s air duct.

I have since begun working on mounting the regulator inside the lower cowl’s air duct and will post photos on the forum if that pans out as well as I hope it will ... admittedly, it is a lot of extra work to do what I'm planning.

I still think that mounting the regulator on the far right of the firewall shelf, cooling with a scat tube and using isolators is a good idea if one wants to keep the regulator outside of the cockpit area. I would also add a small heat shield to prevent the radiator’s outflow from wrapping around to the regulator … and I will do just that if the lower cowl mounting option does not pan out as I hope.
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www.dogaviation.com
RV-12 Wings, Empennage, Fuselage, Finishing, Avionics and Powerplant kits all completed
Now Flying!!

Dues paid until September 2017
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  #5  
Old 04-14-2017, 06:52 PM
olderthandirt olderthandirt is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Lopez Island, Wa.
Posts: 174
Default regulator/rectifier

I am no electrical guru, but when they were willing to warranty the unit for two years it caught my attention...Ducati/Rotax/ Van's aircraft is not providing any help with replacement....second, they said they would make one that is way better than original..so far that is not saying much...mine lasted 25 hours...do not know what cost will be...but it is built in USA and guaranteed for two years...sounds to me like a way better product...the manufacturer is: Aircraft Systems in PA....I get nothing out if this except maybe a Regualtor/Rectifier tha last more than 25 hours.....
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Sold 182 Skyelane
sold Super Cub
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Paid thru 2016, even though exempt
RV 12 completed, waiting DAR
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