VansAirForceForums  
Home > VansAirForceForums

- POSTING RULES
- Donate yearly (please).
- Advertise in here!

- Today's Posts | Insert Pics


Go Back   VAF Forums > Model Specific > RV-10
Register FAQ Members List Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1  
Old 03-17-2017, 04:06 PM
rvanstory's Avatar
rvanstory rvanstory is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: New Braunfels
Posts: 24
Default Flange repair advice for new builder

I'm a newbie building an RV10. Today I royally messed up a hole on rear spar of elevator while squeezing a dimple in the flange. It's not one that the trim tab hinge attaches to, it will be under aft end of elevator where the foam wedges are used for ribs. I wanted to post some pics of my repair just to get an experience builders opinion. I think it will be fine, but don't know what I don't know, so thought it best to ask. Please look at photos and tell me if it will be ok, or if I need to get new spar and try again.

1. Here's the messed up dimple.



2. I then reamed out the dimple so the cracked portion was removed, creating a much oversized hole. Then cut a doubler and match drilled it.


3. Then dimpled the doubler. Made doubler to cover 4 holes (messed up one plus 3 more) to make match drilling possible. Here it is clecoed in place.


The doubler does stick out past flange slightly (about 1/16"), but nothing attaches here that it could interfere with.
__________________
Randy Vanstory
Building RV10
N783V - Reserved
Flying Mooney M20J
Just getting started.
VS, Rudder, HS done. Elevator 80%
Dues Paid 2017
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 03-17-2017, 04:10 PM
Kyle Boatright Kyle Boatright is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 2,678
Default

You've made a good start - specifically by cleaning up the bad hole. Typically a repair like that is completed by drilling holes adjacent to the "Bad" hole and installing a new rivet on each side of the hole while maintaining appropriate edge distances.
__________________
Kyle Boatright
Atlanta, GA
2001 RV-6 N46KB
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 03-17-2017, 04:42 PM
David Paule David Paule is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 3,007
Default

A future option, should that issue occur somewhere else, is to see if an NAS1097 "oops" rivet will fit. The AD4 has a -4 body and a -3 head, so it possible could.

Dave
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 03-17-2017, 04:49 PM
rvanstory's Avatar
rvanstory rvanstory is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: New Braunfels
Posts: 24
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by David Paule View Post
A future option, should that issue occur somewhere else, is to see if an NAS1097 "oops" rivet will fit. The AD4 has a -4 body and a -3 head, so it possible could.

Dave
Thanks for the advice. I only wish the oops rivet option would have worked. In this case, the hole was way to damaged for an oops rivet to work. When I mess up, it's not 1/2-way.
__________________
Randy Vanstory
Building RV10
N783V - Reserved
Flying Mooney M20J
Just getting started.
VS, Rudder, HS done. Elevator 80%
Dues Paid 2017
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 03-17-2017, 04:51 PM
rvanstory's Avatar
rvanstory rvanstory is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: New Braunfels
Posts: 24
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyle Boatright View Post
You've made a good start - specifically by cleaning up the bad hole. Typically a repair like that is completed by drilling holes adjacent to the "Bad" hole and installing a new rivet on each side of the hole while maintaining appropriate edge distances.
Thanks Kyle. Do I still need to do that? Or, since I included multiple holes, will this work ok?
__________________
Randy Vanstory
Building RV10
N783V - Reserved
Flying Mooney M20J
Just getting started.
VS, Rudder, HS done. Elevator 80%
Dues Paid 2017
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 03-18-2017, 09:59 AM
JonJay's Avatar
JonJay JonJay is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Battleground
Posts: 3,381
Default

Your doing fine. A very good reference would be AC 43.13-1B which covers many typical repairs. Kyle's method is very commonly used and as the "manufacturer", you can do this. I am not sure it is called out in the AC as it is intended for field repairs, not for manufacturers. I feel Kyle's method is probably the best and most appropriate.
However, your method of reinforcement is actually called out in AC 43.13-1B ".... Add reinforcement to carry the stresses across the damaged portion....." This section is really intended for repair of cracks, but it works for your repair as well. Probably overkill.
So, either method would be acceptable. There is a long explanation of the requirements for what you are doing, splices, which call out the number of rivets per inch of width, blah, blah, blah.... however, you are only splicing through a portion of the spar, the flange, not splicing the spar itself.
As a side note, repair of spars is not allowed in AC 43, as only the "manufacturer" is allowed to tell you how to repair it. In our world, one could assume that means the aircraft designer, since each builder is the manufacturer. In other words, you can do whatever you want, but for anything short of a simple repair like this, you would want Van's involvement for a spar repair.
I hope that didn't muddy the waters.....
__________________
Smart People do Stupid things all the time. I know, I've seen me do'em.

RV6 - Builder/Flying
Bucker Jungmann
Fiat G.46 -(restoration in progress, if I have enough life left in me)
RV1 - Proud Pilot.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 04-14-2017, 07:10 PM
WrightsRV7 WrightsRV7 is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Ridgecrest, CA
Posts: 103
Default cosmetic or repair

The feedback on using AC43 are good ones to consider. I am not an A&P, but been around awhile working under them, and having a damaged hole is not usually considered a repair or a structural defect (i.e. crack, tear, etc). The doubler is overkill since you did not really affect the structural integrity of the spar, at least to any discernable amount. My fix would have been fill the hole with a rivet (after your nice clean up), the double-dimple will give the famous acorn-looking finish on the inside (who cares) and then add rivet on each side of the rivet in question, you have lots of room. Even if you stick with the doubler, I would still add rivets on each side. If you look over the AC43, they do not spare on the rivets when using a doubler. Keep up the good work!!
Cheers, Mike
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:04 PM.


The VAFForums come to you courtesy Delta Romeo, LLC. By viewing and participating in them you agree to build your plane using standardized methods and practices and to fly it safely and in accordance with the laws governing the country you are located in.