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  #11  
Old 01-05-2017, 02:30 PM
mike newall's Avatar
mike newall mike newall is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Yorkshire, England
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Interesting thread as some guys in Ole Blighty are having difficulty obtaining Weldon-10 because it flags as hazmat and can't be air freighted.

My obvious go to alternatives would be Sikaflex UV-295 or a 3M structural adhesive with similar properties.

Having glued RV7, 8 and will be looking at 12 and 14, I still think it is the way forward and although more time consuming than drilling, less stressful and a much more professional finish.

For the guys looking at aluminum fairings - if it is so you can remove the windshield later - Mmmmm.. Google bird damage in cars and airplanes. Replacing the windshield will be the least of your problems.

Finding and removing the Buzzard's hoop from somewhere in the upholstery will be more of a challenge
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  #12  
Old 01-05-2017, 04:03 PM
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1001001 1001001 is offline
 
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I am interested in learning more about your approach as well.
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  #13  
Old 01-05-2017, 04:22 PM
togaflyer togaflyer is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Punta Gorda, Fl
Posts: 361
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If your interested in this method I would suggest starting by Google searching "Sportsman window installation" and check out this 5 part series that a gentleman did. It is very detailed. For me, this is what I have so far. The Silpruf holds the windows very good. Part of the process is using dried Silpruf as standoffs to set the window height and insure there is material between the window and the flange. If I was to kick the window, I have no doubt the plexiglass would shatter long before the material gave out. one thing, Silpruf needs about 20 days for full cure. There is a 1/8 gap between the window edge and the joggle. Once the plane is painted, I will fill and filet Silpluf in the gap. Silpruf is silicon, it is UV and weather resistant, and does not need a UV blocker like Sika needs. You do not want to get Silpruf on anything you want to paint. And as Mark said, do not use Silpruf unless you have at least 90 days before the expiration date.
I did want the ability to remove and replace the plexiglass if needed. I have seen the results of a bird strike, oops happens because of an FBO attendant, or just age beating down the plastic eventually. I went with the Dresser plastic and very happy with it. Was worth the money.
Oh, FYI, Im not intimidated by fiberglassing. Made sufboards when I was young and once I got the rust out of the brain, glassing has not been an issue. We just like the finished look of the Cessna TTX and the Cirrus windows, which is how this will turn out. I have spoke to someone who used the aluminum fairing, and seen the finished product, And we also liked the look. You can make the fairing removable or set it permanent with rivets. You could also have a glassed in like finish, but you would loose the removable ability.
When I have finished the install (before painting) I will learn how to post some picture and give a final verdict if its a viable option. This should be by the end of February. No comments on the time line please 😖
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  #14  
Old 04-19-2017, 09:03 PM
togaflyer togaflyer is offline
 
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Location: Punta Gorda, Fl
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I have installed my windscreen and the aluminum fairing I received from ML Skunk works. As in the door windows install, I used the same method as the Glassair Sportsman window installation method (which is the same for all my windows). We are very pleased with the results. I continued to use Silpruf for the windscreen. Lots of taping to establish clean lines where the Silpruf edges run and to protect all surfaces from contact with the Silpruf (you dont want contact with unpainted surfaces). The windscreen was lightly sanded in the area the fairing lays over it and a thin layer of Silpluf was spread over the sanded and taped area. This gives a clean black background looking forward from inside. The fairing took some extra cutting and shaping (needed a stretcher and shrinker set from HF) to achieve a clean fit along the fuselage and windscreen. I drilled the fairing and match drilled it to the fuselage with two inch spacing. There is one area on each side of the forward fuselage that required different spacing on a couple hole to acommodate the location of the sub panel and rib rivets. I dimpled the fairing for a -4 rivet; however, the final hardware will be a 4-40 countersink machine screw with a washer and lock nut. All holes are reachable, including under the panel. I drilled and carefully countersunk the fuselage, removing the minimal amount of material needed for the dimpled fairing. Enough Silpruf was used to bed and seal the fairing to the fuselage and windscreen. Clecos were used to attach and hold the fairing and to allow several days for curing. So if you interested in this method here are my thoughts.

Glassing vs Aluminum fairing - What appeals to you the builder. I think both look nice, but for us, an aluminum fairing just had a certain look we liked.

Servicing - The fairing makes it easier to replace the windscreen if a bird decides to someday fly through it. The fairing can be removed and reused.

Time - the prep work, shaping, fitting, drilling, etc, probably equals the work for preping and glassing. no free ride on this one. You still need to take the extra time shaping, drilling, setting clean tape line etc.

Post install - In a week (Silpruf needs time to cure, and up to two weeks for full strength set) We will remove the clecos and install th No.4 flush screws. I could do it tomorrow, but going out of town for a week. Before painting, I will touch up the areas were the tool marks are slightly visable with a thin float coat of filler. other then that its done. The fairing is flush on the windscreen and fuselage. You could float some filler along the fairing edge and fuselage to eliminate the .025 fairing edge, but if it ever need removal, you defeat the ability to easily remove it.

While Im away, I will learn how to post pictures. I will get some photos posted of the finished product. ML Skunk work charged 235.00 for the fairing, or you can get his video for 20 or 30 bucks and learn to make one (they include the video with the fairing). Right now Im like a rental horse heading for the barn, so I want nothing to slow me down. The fairing was worth the price IMHO. So hopfully this was informative for the Club -10 builders. Glassing or aluminum fairing, the end result is still a great plane!
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  #15  
Old 04-20-2017, 11:58 AM
Carlos Trigo Carlos Trigo is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Cascais - Portugal
Posts: 15
Default Photos please

Yes

Please post some pictures, both from the aluminium fairing and from the windows!

Thanks
Carlos
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  #16  
Old 04-20-2017, 12:03 PM
Canadian_JOY Canadian_JOY is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,274
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carlos Trigo View Post
Yes

Please post some pictures, both from the aluminium fairing and from the windows!

Thanks
Carlos
I'll second that request! Our Sportsman windows look fantastic - more like something one would expect on a Gulfstream jet than a homebuilt airplane. I hope yours come out looking as good!
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  #17  
Old 04-20-2017, 01:43 PM
Bill Boyd Bill Boyd is offline
 
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Location: Landing field "12VA"
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Quote:
Originally Posted by togaflyer View Post
I went with the Dresser plastic and very happy with it. Was worth the money.
Need help locating this company, please. Google no findy.

Already intending to go this route, for the reason Canadian Joy cites (professional appearance) but this thread inspires all the more
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  #18  
Old 04-20-2017, 02:07 PM
togaflyer togaflyer is offline
 
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Location: Punta Gorda, Fl
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Hi Bill, my bad, look up Cee Bailey aviation plastics. They are part of Dresser.
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  #19  
Old 04-20-2017, 08:09 PM
Bill Boyd Bill Boyd is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Landing field "12VA"
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Default didn't realize that

my secondhand kit came minus the plastics because the intention of previous owners was to go with Cee Bailey. So that's become my plan as well.
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Hop-Along Aerodrome (12VA)
RV-6A flying since '98
RV-10 in process

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  #20  
Old 04-20-2017, 09:04 PM
togaflyer togaflyer is offline
 
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Location: Punta Gorda, Fl
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I was happy with the product. Minimal trimming. A friend, who has a -10, said I cheated by not using the Van's plexiglass. I told him, work smarter not harder.
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