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  #11  
Old 08-17-2015, 07:24 AM
pa38112 pa38112 is offline
 
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I would not worry about the missing metal, but would make sure the leak is fixed so it does not continue to erode. It looks like you are close to the edge of the gasket seating area. I have read some threads on better gaskets than the OEM design. I don't remember the details, but I'm sure someone will have chime in with them...
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  #12  
Old 08-17-2015, 08:41 AM
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I just got off of the phone with Darryl at Superior. After he looked at the picture, he recommended I stop using the spiral wound exhaust gasket and instead use a the 75118 copper gasket. It will provide more surface area to seal the exhaust to the cylinder.
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  #13  
Old 08-17-2015, 09:42 AM
jchang10 jchang10 is offline
 
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Nice writeup with great pics. Thanks for it. Quite a number of "tricks" required for a task like this.

Also, are you using 100LL exclusively?
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  #14  
Old 08-17-2015, 09:51 AM
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agirard7a agirard7a is offline
 
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Default Nice job

Mike. Great McGiver job. A new nick name for you or
maybe McGruber! Seriously, glad you got back safely, and thanks for
The informative write up.
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  #15  
Old 08-17-2015, 02:04 PM
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bullojm1 bullojm1 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jchang10 View Post
Also, are you using 100LL exclusively?
Yes, 100% 100LL.
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  #16  
Old 08-17-2015, 05:35 PM
springer springer is offline
 
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Mike, I have the same engine. I may have missed it but how many hours on the engine?

One of the best write ups I have seen on VAF.
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  #17  
Old 08-17-2015, 05:43 PM
Lars Lars is offline
 
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Good to read you found the source of the problem. Wish mine had been that easy, but along the way I got a similar education. Compressed air does speed valve removal when you've got the pieces to do so. Go back to enjoying your magic carpet!
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  #18  
Old 08-17-2015, 06:51 PM
BobTurner BobTurner is offline
 
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Glad it's fixed.
As you now know certain certified Lycoming engines have a SB or AD mandating a "valve wobble test" every so many hours. Might be a good idea to get a hold of those instructions, they give more guidance than "the other 3 felt okay".

re post #1: What is a VOR/ILS approach? -

Comment #2: It's a lot cheaper to figure out how to set up your avionics on the ground, than it is in the air.

Bob
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  #19  
Old 08-17-2015, 07:28 PM
RVDan RVDan is offline
 
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Nice writeup. I have to ask though what would be the cause of the excess carbon buildup and what is to stop it from happening again in short order?
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  #20  
Old 08-17-2015, 07:50 PM
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bullojm1 bullojm1 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RVDan View Post
Nice writeup. I have to ask though what would be the cause of the excess carbon buildup and what is to stop it from happening again in short order?
Dan,

To be honest I have no idea why one cylinder decided to built up excessive carbon/lead on the guide than the other ones. I checked the other 3 cylinders, and the exhaust valve was smooth as silk. Manufacturing irregularities? Unlucky? Who knows. Some people have recommended the following suggestions:

1) Add Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO) to my fuel and/or oil.
2) Add TCP Fuel Treatment to the fuel to act as a lead scavenger
3) Switch from Phillips 20W50 aviation oil back to Aeroshell

I'm not going to do any of the above. I am going to keep running as I always have to see if the issue occurs again -- with the only caveat in I will check my exhaust valve wobble on every annual now that I know I can do a cylinder in about 15-30 minutes.

If you suspect you have an issue or want me to give a look at your engine, let me know and I will happily fly over to KFDK and assist you.
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