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  #11  
Old 04-16-2017, 02:59 PM
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Oh what a relief it is, used to be the slogan for something, Alka Selzer I think. On the way from Easter dinner I stopped by, turned on the Skyview, heard the tone, and heard it totally disappear when I lifted up on the stall warning vane. Have not had time to digest that yet, but that seems like reverse of normal, maybe I got the wires hooked up backwards?
Thanks guys, not having flown and heard the sound, the stall warning would have been the LAST place I would have looked!
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  #12  
Old 04-16-2017, 03:28 PM
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Got another bright idea, looked back on the dozens of screenshots I have made, the stall warning light is on - always (when on the ground)! That should have triggered something in my brain cells!
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A&P, PP-SEL, Pathological Flier, EAA Technical Counselor
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  #13  
Old 04-16-2017, 03:40 PM
John-G John-G is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DonFromTX View Post
Oh what a relief it is, used to be the slogan for something, Alka Selzer I think. On the way from Easter dinner I stopped by, turned on the Skyview, heard the tone, and heard it totally disappear when I lifted up on the stall warning vane. Have not had time to digest that yet, but that seems like reverse of normal, maybe I got the wires hooked up backwards?
Thanks guys, not having flown and heard the sound, the stall warning would have been the LAST place I would have looked!
Don ---- Easy fix, there are two terminals marked NO (normally open) and NC (normally closed) on the micro-switch. You want to move the wire from the NC terminal to the NO terminal.

You should end up with the ground wire going to the terminal that comes out of the top of the micro-switch ... the other wire that ultimately runs to the stall warning input on the SkyView needs to be connected to the upper of the two terminals coming out of the back of the micro-switch (which is the NO or normally open terminal).

Refer to figure 1 on page 16-02 of the instructions.

Happy building (and soon to be flying)
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  #14  
Old 04-17-2017, 03:25 PM
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Well sorta cured maybe. The wire was connected to the lower spade, switched it and now the warning tone comes on when I flick up the stall vane.
Problem is though, it is now rather faint, even with the volumes all turned full, probably too faint to even hear while flying! That makes no sense to me because electrically all I did was reverse the path to ground! Could I have messed something up when changing the lug? I had the power on the whole time. Now I also get a faint air hissing noise, but still no activity like squelch from the radio,
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  #15  
Old 04-18-2017, 07:23 AM
John-G John-G is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DonFromTX View Post
Well sorta cured maybe. Problem is though, it is now rather faint, even with the volumes all turned full, probably too faint to even hear while flying! That makes no sense to me because electrically all I did was reverse the path to ground! Could I have messed something up when changing the lug? I had the power on the whole time. Now I also get a faint air hissing noise, but still no activity like squelch from the radio,
Don - I find your "new" volume issue most interesting. Lets take a step back. Remove the wire from the NO contact on the micro switch and physically touch it to the screw that secures the ground wire going to the common terminal on the micro-switch. Is the stall warning tone at the same "new" low volume or is it loud again?

Also, are the the audio sounds from the SkyView low as well? In the setup menu there is a place where you can test the SkyView audio ... when in the test mode the nice lady inside the box repeats "Dynon SkyView" over and over. You can use this as an aid for adjusting audio levels at the audio panel or GTR 200 radio whichever you have.

I'm wondering ... if in your previous efforts to get the headsets working, did you adjust the stall warning pot on the AV-5000A module or adjust audio levels? If so, you may want to place the potentiometer settings back to where it was from Van's and use that as a starting point. The stall warning tone is generated inside the AV-5000A module and the stall potentiometer on the side of the module adjusts the tone level leaving the AV-50000A module.

In addition:
I have the GTR 200 radio so this may not be helpful to you but on my setup the stall tone goes from the AV-50000A module to Input 1 on the radio (this is from memory and may not be correct) and the audio warnings from the SkyView go to Input 2. (The point being they are separate inputs to the radio's audio inputs).

Regardless .... Inside the GTR200 radio's settings in addition to the main volume control there is a separate setup menu for Input 1 and Input 2 and the volume can also be adjusted there as well. In my case I backed down the gain for Input 1 which made the stall warning much less ear piercing.

If you have the older style audio panel I would guess there are similar adjustments that can be made ... perhaps one of the guys more familiar with that setup can chime in to lend assistance.

This is a head scratcher ... good luck
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Last edited by John-G : 04-22-2017 at 06:25 AM.
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  #16  
Old 04-18-2017, 08:41 AM
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DonFromTX DonFromTX is offline
 
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Thanks a lot, that is very helpful and will keep me busy for a while.
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  #17  
Old 04-18-2017, 02:56 PM
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DonFromTX DonFromTX is offline
 
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Spent a few hours and found some new things, not sure what to do next.
The NO contact wire was removed and grounded, no difference noted in volume. Might have been I recalled the volume wrong, but I still think it was louder before I corrected that.
Went into setup, everything is set to the loudest possible - but I never heard a squawk! In the first "test" position, I sensed I was hearing something,
sounded like two words, repeated over and over, but too low volume to understand or to be certain it was voice. It did not seem to do that in any of the other settings, just a lot of nothing!
I have never adjusted the pots on the AV5000, I would assume they came correctly adjusted. I have an SL30 radio, nothing coming out of it either.
Any new ideas?

Quote:
Originally Posted by John-G View Post
Don - I find your "new" volume issue most interesting. Lets take a step back. Remove the wire from the NO contact on the micro switch and physically touch it to the screw that secures the ground wire going to the common terminal on the micro-switch. Is the stall warning tone at the same "new" low volume or is it loud again?

Also, are the the audio sounds from the SkyView low as well? In the setup menu there is a place where you can test the SkyView audio ... when in the test mode the nice lady inside the box repeats "WARNING" over and over. You can use this as an aid for adjusting audio levels at the audio panel or GTR 200 radio whichever you have.

I'm wondering ... if in your previous efforts to get the headsets working, did you adjust the stall warning pot on the AV-5000A module or adjust audio levels? If so, you may want to place the potentiometer settings back to where it was from Van's and use that as a starting point. The stall warning tone is generated inside the AV-5000A module and the stall potentiometer on the side of the module adjusts the tone level leaving the AV-50000A module.

In addition:
I have the GTR 200 radio so this may not be helpful to you but on my setup the stall tone goes from the AV-50000A module to Input 1 on the radio (this is from memory and may not be correct) and the audio warnings from the SkyView go to Input 2. (The point being they are separate inputs to the radio's audio inputs).

Regardless .... Inside the GTR200 radio's settings in addition to the main volume control there is a separate setup menu for Input 1 and Input 2 and the volume can also be adjusted there as well. In my case I backed down the gain for Input 1 which made the stall warning much less ear piercing.

If you have the older style audio panel I would guess there are similar adjustments that can be made ... perhaps one of the guys more familiar with that setup can chime in to lend assistance.

This is a head scratcher ... good luck
__________________
AF1 (was RV12) EAB Air Force One, SN 461, N461DG VIKING/HONDA ENGINE POWERED! AND N756TS ROTAX POWERED
A&P, PP-SEL, Pathological Flier, EAA Technical Counselor
EAA Chapter 595 President,http://www.595.eaachapter.org/index.htm
Retired US Army Officer
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/index....X&project=1903
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  #18  
Old 04-18-2017, 04:09 PM
John-G John-G is offline
 
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Don … Now that the steady tone issue has been resolved and you now know it was the stall warning tone, I think you may want to begin working on verifying the audio circuits.

Would suggest you start a new thread for this so others will see you are having audio problems and not “headset confusion” and mention your complete configuration conversion wiring harness, audio panel, SL30, ect. so others will be able to chime in to help with the current issue.

At this point I would fall back and use Van's electrical prints to go through the audio wiring with an ohm meter (with the power off) to verify all the audio connections between various devices are being made correctly. As a side note, I had a blueprint shop print out the wiring drawing on five or six 4’ x 3’ blueprint sheets ... printed the four quadrants and one centered on the AV-50000 module wiring interconnects. I have found these very useful.

To aid in the testing, I would also suggest you make a couple of long test wires with male and female pins on the ends that you can use to slip into the connectors for the pins being tested so you don’t have to try manually holding the ohm meter leads on the pins being tested. Using an ohm meter that has an alligator clip or hook on one probe makes things lot easier.

My suggestion would be to trace the continuity of all the audio circuits one circuit at a time from the source to the audio panel and from the audio panel to the headset jacks. Do all of this with the power off.

After knowing all the audio wiring is for sure correct, you could then move on to powering up the hardware and begin looking into making level adjustments. Others will have to help with that since your hardware is very different than mine.
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Last edited by John-G : 04-18-2017 at 04:56 PM.
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  #19  
Old 04-19-2017, 08:04 AM
Hotscam Hotscam is offline
 
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Is the green LED on the PM3000 intercom on ?
I once spent an hour or so to find it was accidentally switched off.
Left knob is push on/off
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