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Old 09-19-2019, 08:09 PM
Charles in SC Charles in SC is offline
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 699

What are all those TV screen looking things? Airplane instruments are round.
RV 7
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Old 09-19-2019, 09:26 PM
Steve Melton's Avatar
Steve Melton Steve Melton is offline
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 2,550
Default throttle/prop/mix lever spacing

I was concerned several yrs ago that I spaced my cables too close. It was never a problem and the advantage is that your palm can touch all three for takeoff. After five yrs I like it more than ever.

Steve Melton
Cincinnati, OH
RV-9A, Tip-up, Superior O-320, roller lifters, 160HP, WW 200RV, dual impulse slick mags, oil pressure = 65 psi, EGT = 1300F, flight hours = 800+ for all

Simplicity is the art in design.
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Old 09-20-2019, 01:06 AM
Draker's Avatar
Draker Draker is offline
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Livermore, CA
Posts: 328

Wow, so much to unpack here. I am very grateful for all the feedback. I have a lot of replying to do, and even more thinking! An alternate layout might be in the cards now.

EDIT: A few things right off the bat:

I'm not married to the G5, in fact I consider it totally redundant and optional. I will look into the Dynon Pocket Panel. I do definitely want some kind of backup indicators that run off the pitotstatic system though. Maybe steam airspeed/altitude only and ditch the standby display altogether.

Paul: Regarding the switches, I think I saw the strobe/WW suggestion in one of the installation manuals but maybe I was looking at the wrong one. Progressive switches for pos/strobe and landing/ww make total sense and I'm going to change to that.

Will investigate the Avidyne unit, however it will probably be a loooong time before I make the jump to an IFR navigator (I don't even have my instrument rating yet).

Lighted indicators: I considered having a big row of all sorts of lights but narrowed down to the two that I really want even if the whole G3X fails: Oil pressure and voltage.

Moving the comm radio up: I wanted to do that but it would involve cutting a lot more of the sub panel away. That radio is deeeep. Worth re-considering though.

Engine control spacing: I never thought of moving them closer together. Interesting idea and may give me more precious horizontal space down there. I'll play around with it!

Alternate layout: I do have an alternate layout that I haven't finished yet or taken screenshots of. Basically it is a portrait 7" display as the PFD far left and a 10" MFD center-left. The radio stack would be center-right. This frees up a lot of real estate and allows me to not have to re-locate the sub panel ribs. I will take some time to explore that layout
Ryan Drake
Livermore, CA
Donated 12/16/2019
RV-7A: Empennage and wing kits complete minus fiberglass, fuselage 90% complete. Canopy in progress.
N12VD and N23VD reserved... Another decision!

Last edited by Draker : 09-20-2019 at 02:40 AM.
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Old 09-20-2019, 04:51 AM
N941WR's Avatar
N941WR N941WR is offline
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: SC
Posts: 12,898

Originally Posted by Draker View Post

Lighted indicators: I considered having a big row of all sorts of lights but narrowed down to the two that I really want even if the whole G3X fails: Oil pressure and voltage.
No need. Your EFIS will give you an audio indicator that something is amiss and if Garmin is like the Dynon, it will highlight the problem. With the Skyview, the oil pressure will go flashing red and you will hear "Oil Pressure, Oil Pressure". I can't recall if says "Low Oil Pressure" or just "Oil Pressure". Either way, it will get your attention.

Take a look at the panel page on my website, while I haven't updated it in years, the concepts remain the same. IE. Lay your switches out by phase of flight, not function. Maybe even put some spaces between them so you don't bump one, when turning on or off another.

Two things that I did that have really worked out well and I would do again in a heart beat is to install a DJM throttle quadrant and the switch sub panels.

The switches are placed around the quadrant in such a way that in the event of a go-a-round, I can push and hold all the levers forward, the carb heat, and toggle up the flaps without removing my hand from the quadrant. (I'm in the process of possibly converting to a CS prop and nothing has to change other then the cover plate of the quadrant.)

The switches recessed using hardware store aluminum angle (It nestles better than aviation AA.) This has made making changes very easy as I only have to remake one small section. Even better is that I mounted red electroluminescent strips above each row of switches and breakers, bathing them in a nice warm red glow at night.

My panel is made up of three removable sections, again, it makes for easier maintenance and I have replaced all three sections at one time or another and am getting ready to redo my radio stack in the near future.

Good luck, you are on the right track!
Bill R.
RV-9 (Yes, it's a dragon tail)
O-360 w/ dual P-mags
Build the plane you want, not the plane others want you to build!
SC86 - Easley, SC

Last edited by N941WR : 09-20-2019 at 04:53 AM.
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Old 09-20-2019, 05:49 AM
N941WR's Avatar
N941WR N941WR is offline
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: SC
Posts: 12,898

PS. I would add a Garmin 660 mounted in an AirGizmo to your radio stack. That way, in the event your main EFIS goes belly up, you can navigate and keep upright with your backup display.

With this setup, you won't need an extra alternator feeding a second battery because you will have backup batteries on both EFIS's, your PocketPanel (I don't really know about the little Garmin), and your 660.

In the event of a total electrical failure, you won't have a radio but there are procedures for dealing with that. Heck, why not make a bracket to hold a handle radio and keep it charged? The range isn't great but in the event of an electrical failure when IFR you will have pretty much everything covered.
Bill R.
RV-9 (Yes, it's a dragon tail)
O-360 w/ dual P-mags
Build the plane you want, not the plane others want you to build!
SC86 - Easley, SC
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Old 09-20-2019, 01:03 PM
Ed_Wischmeyer's Avatar
Ed_Wischmeyer Ed_Wischmeyer is offline
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Savannah, GA
Posts: 1,214

Originally Posted by Draker View Post
Engine control spacing: I never thought of moving them closer together. Interesting idea and may give me more precious horizontal space down there.
If prop and mixture are vernier, you don't need to worry about keeping your hand on them on takeoff -- they're not going anywhere. In a multi-engine with lever controls, then it makes sense to keep your hand on all the engine controls. I think it's more important that you be able to get your fingers around each control -- that's what I made sure of when I redid the engine controls on the -9A when I added the constant speed prop. The carb heat wound up under and between throttle and prop because I didn't want to redo the whole panel...

RV-9A at KSAV (Savannah, GA; dual G3X Touch with autopilot, GTN650, GTX330ES, GDL52 ADSB-In)
Previously RV-4, RV-8, RV-8A, AirCam, Cessna 175
ATP CFII PhD, so I have no excuses when I screw up
2020 dues slightly overpaid
Retired - "They used to pay me to be good, now I'm good for nothing."
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Old 09-20-2019, 01:31 PM
wirejock's Avatar
wirejock wirejock is offline
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 3,682
Default Extra large panel

Just curious. Have you tried installing the extra tall panel? I couldn't find an easy way to slide it in place and finally gave up and went back to the standard. I want to be able to pull the panel as a unit to work back there.
I also fabricated two shelves. They span from the panel to subpanel at the bottom. One each side. Hinges hold them front and aft. Easy to pull a pin and drop the panel either direction or pull two pins and drop it. They really stiffen the panel and make an extra space to mount remote electronics.
I fabricated cardboard mock ups of every box to locate them.
Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 12/03/2019, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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Old 09-20-2019, 02:45 PM
BobTurner BobTurner is offline
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Livermore, CA
Posts: 6,425

My thoughts - worth what you paid for them
1. Mag/start switches. Very clever design, but I think in practice it will be awkward holding two switches up with one hand. At best, youíll push harder than needed, possibly shortening the lifetime of the switches. Iíd re-wire them, keeping the safety features, thru a regular push to start switch.
2. G5. For vfr do what you want. For ifr, Iím still of the minority opinion that you want your last-ditch backup as independent of the main panel, including software, as possible. Iíd favor a GRT mini, second choice a Dynon.
3. Agree with others, thereís no need for a Hobbs meter.
4. I think having the com low is okay, as long as you control it thru the EFIS, so you really donít have to look at it. I presume the efis will also show music-select and or music volume. I think I use the music volume more than any other audio knob/button!
5. Autopilot gets used a lot, the higher the better.
6. My personal preference is flaps right, fuel pump left, of the engine controls, just because flaps right is standard.
7. You can buy colored vinyl that slips over toggle switches. I like red for fuel pump, master, maybe trim cut-off, etc. Yellow for pitot heat, etc.
8. Right seat PTT seems awkward for a right seat pilot with right hand on stick. If intended just for passenger/safety pilot, ok.
9. You will find it a challenge to be avoiding a tangle of wires, headsets, music sources, etc., on the seats, when entering/exiting. I would suggest moving headset jacks, music inputs, USB charger, to the back. Maybe the horizontal brace.
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Old 09-20-2019, 04:13 PM
Vansrv7arob Vansrv7arob is offline
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Coal Point, Australia
Posts: 128
Default Look at Garmin 375

Drop g5 and second panel, add them back in when you go IFR

................./ ' \.

M: (61) 401 578 700
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Old 09-20-2019, 06:18 PM
RV12JT RV12JT is offline
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Keystone State
Posts: 121

Originally Posted by rmartingt View Post
If you have dual EFIS screens, (presumably) dual ADAHRS, and a backup mini-EFIS... why the steam gauges?
I agree, dump th steam, the G5 will suffice.
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