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  #11  
Old 09-07-2019, 07:35 PM
Bill Boyd's Avatar
Bill Boyd Bill Boyd is offline
 
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Location: Landing field "12VA"
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Default Thanks, Kyle.

I'm facing the same issues and these photos will help a lot!
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Hop-Along Aerodrome (12VA)
RV-6A - N30YD - flying since '98
RV-10 - N130YD reserved - under construction

donating monthly to the VAF - thanks, Doug
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  #12  
Old 09-08-2019, 08:29 AM
lr172 lr172 is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Schaumburg, IL
Posts: 4,190
Default

Thanks for posting this. VERY helpfull.

Larry

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyle Boatright View Post
This is how I mounted the front left baffle and tied it to the engine case.



Here's how I tied the front right baffle to the engine case.





Here's how I cut the right rear baffle to clear the pressure relief valve (the yellow thing) and also added a strap to tie the baffle to the engine case.image sharing sites





Here's a view from the front of the engine. I scabbed on extensions to the baffles on both sides of the engine here. The stock ones left very large openings between the crankcase and the baffles.pic free host





Here's my current solution to the #5 cylinder air bypass. It is just a hole cut in the baffle, a 1/2" wide doubler (of 0.63, I think) around the hole, with a plate riveted over the top. That gave me an air passage that's about 0.095" deep, which should pass more air than what I've got on the RV-6 and has worked well for 18 years. I did not make a bypass for #2.

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  #13  
Old 09-16-2019, 11:09 AM
Bill Boyd's Avatar
Bill Boyd Bill Boyd is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Landing field "12VA"
Posts: 1,394
Default Ran into this:

#2 baffle just wasn't going into position with the brace (CB-1002D) attached. Decided it would either be plate nuts and screws, or rivet it on per plans and see even more paint scraped off my case and cylinder fins.

Opted for the plate nuts and 3 #8 screws.
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Hop-Along Aerodrome (12VA)
RV-6A - N30YD - flying since '98
RV-10 - N130YD reserved - under construction

donating monthly to the VAF - thanks, Doug
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  #14  
Old 09-19-2019, 07:45 AM
Bill Boyd's Avatar
Bill Boyd Bill Boyd is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Landing field "12VA"
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Default Kyle / anyone

I notice in your left front baffle picture that you have the threads on the prop control cable backed as far out of the bracket as they can go and still get the nut on.

In test-fitting my Van's prop gov cable, with the blue knob all the way in, the cable is still too long to line up with the governor (PCU 5000) control arm in its low pitch extreme of travel, even with threads backed all the way out like yours shown. Looks like I'll have to trim down and possibly cut more threads on that cable shaft or else live with "balls to the wall" not really being to-the-wall for the blue knob. That seems not desirable.

Anyone else run into this? Did you shorten the cable end length or shim the bracket maybe 1/4" away from the underside of the #2 baffle? I'm not gung-ho about either option. What am I overlooking?

ETA: after thinking this over a bit more and studying my own pictures while at work, I realize the arm on the PCU5000 could be re-clocked on the shaft to better align with the cable throw - as long as care is taken not to get near the limits of an over-center situation. Is that correct? May be all the adjustment I need, if so.
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Bill Boyd

Hop-Along Aerodrome (12VA)
RV-6A - N30YD - flying since '98
RV-10 - N130YD reserved - under construction

donating monthly to the VAF - thanks, Doug

Last edited by Bill Boyd : 09-19-2019 at 08:15 AM. Reason: free second-opinion for myself
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  #15  
Old 09-19-2019, 07:51 AM
Bill Boyd's Avatar
Bill Boyd Bill Boyd is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Landing field "12VA"
Posts: 1,394
Default Apparently wasn't holding my mouth right before...

I no sooner completed this mod than I discovered a sequence of twists and shoves that fairly easily installs and removes the #2 front baffle piece with the brace installed and without further scraping any paint from the fins and engine case (what's gone is gone ) Evidently I just didn't put the right hoodoo on it before I gave up and made the brace removable. Don't do this mod - it's really not needed if you figure out the puzzle.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Boyd View Post
#2 baffle just wasn't going into position with the brace (CB-1002D) attached. Decided it would either be plate nuts and screws, or rivet it on per plans and see even more paint scraped off my case and cylinder fins.

Opted for the plate nuts and 3 #8 screws.
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Bill Boyd

Hop-Along Aerodrome (12VA)
RV-6A - N30YD - flying since '98
RV-10 - N130YD reserved - under construction

donating monthly to the VAF - thanks, Doug
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  #16  
Old 09-20-2019, 11:04 AM
Bill Boyd's Avatar
Bill Boyd Bill Boyd is offline
 
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Looking last night at the PCU5000X control arm, there's no way to re-clock it on the shaft without disturbing the factory set high and low RPM/pitch limits, which I am not going to do. Wouldn't gain me enough extra travel to accommodate the cable limits anyway.

I've threaded and shortened the shaft on the end of the Prop cable another 1/4" which is another hard physical limit where the threads align with the outer sleeve when fully retracted (knob pulled to coarse pitch). I will add 1/8" shims under the cable bracket feet. Hopefully these two changes will pull the cable back far enough to align its travel with that of the control arm. Not really rocket surgery, only an extra couple of evenings on the build, but I'm surprised the factory cable and bracket are made so close to the extreme end of the stack-up tolerance for cable travel.
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Bill Boyd

Hop-Along Aerodrome (12VA)
RV-6A - N30YD - flying since '98
RV-10 - N130YD reserved - under construction

donating monthly to the VAF - thanks, Doug
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  #17  
Old 09-20-2019, 12:26 PM
cderk cderk is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Park Ridge, NJ
Posts: 377
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Boyd View Post
Looking last night at the PCU5000X control arm, there's no way to re-clock it on the shaft without disturbing the factory set high and low RPM/pitch limits, which I am not going to do. Wouldn't gain me enough extra travel to accommodate the cable limits anyway.
I think there is Bill... i had to reclock mine. I had to cut away their awesome safety wiring and the whole thing spins. I have not adjusted the upper and lower limit, i'm hoping that it wont need to change.
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  #18  
Old 09-20-2019, 12:31 PM
Kyle Boatright Kyle Boatright is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Atlanta, GA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cderk View Post
I think there is Bill... i had to reclock mine. I had to cut away their awesome safety wiring and the whole thing spins. I have not adjusted the upper and lower limit, i'm hoping that it wont need to change.
Same here.
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2001 RV-6 N46KB
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  #19  
Old 09-20-2019, 09:46 PM
Bill Boyd's Avatar
Bill Boyd Bill Boyd is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Landing field "12VA"
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Here's my present PCU5000X setup:

You're saying if I remove these screws and reposition the outer portion 30 degrees clockwise, that the internals will work normally provided I don't disturb anything else? Because 30 degrees will solve all my cable throw issues quite nicely.
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Bill Boyd

Hop-Along Aerodrome (12VA)
RV-6A - N30YD - flying since '98
RV-10 - N130YD reserved - under construction

donating monthly to the VAF - thanks, Doug
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  #20  
Old 09-21-2019, 04:12 AM
cderk cderk is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Park Ridge, NJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Boyd View Post
Here's my present PCU5000X setup:

You're saying if I remove these screws and reposition the outer portion 30 degrees clockwise, that the internals will work normally provided I don't disturb anything else? Because 30 degrees will solve all my cable throw issues quite nicely.
Correct - if you remove the safety wire and loosen all those screws, the whole thing rotates. When I ordered mine, I guessed at the angle. I was way off, which kind of sucks, but it was simple to adjust. Mine came with instructions on how to do it.
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