Go for it
szicree said:
I'm nearing the part where I get to horse around with the baffle seals and am just wondering if it wouldn't be better to just build some type of lid for the whole rig out of aluminum or carbon fiber. Pros and cons are very welcome.
Yes, in my opinion a plenum is value add. This is also the opinion of the NASA cooling report, which made the recommendation to avoid soft seals because they are hard to seal up against the cowl. Also a secondary consideration (but not trivial) is air pressure on the upper inside of the cowl (plus out side air pressures) tends to wear the rear side/lower hinges; Hinges may last a good long time, but in my experience, 1000 hours they are shot. Also with soft seals engine vibrations/movements tend to load the cowl, even transmit more vibration (I would guess).
Does this mean Vans set up does not work? No Van's set up works fine for cooling but you can improve or reduce cooling drag. My normal recommendation is stick to the plans & keep it simple.
As far as cooling problems, soft seals may contribute, but I don't think a solid plenum is to blame in my opinion or can fix the main reasons for high CHT, which are many. I list them below; what I think the top three reasons are for high CHT, in my opinion.
Besides better sealing, not having to deal with the soft seals and less cowl wear, I don't think a "dog-house" plenum will gain speed or much better cooling. To gain speed significantly you need to change other things in concert with the solid plenum, which I mention below. If you want to gain some speed you should consider a smaller inlet area or even different shape (round v. rectangle).
Common sense, zero leaks, all air going into the upper plenum (regardless of how you seal it) and down through cylinders means more cooling and efficiency. Any leak, where air goes direct into the lower plenum with out cooling the cylinders, pressurizes the lower plenum and is bad for efficiency. The solution for the stock set-up is make those seals as leak free as you can. Clearly a solid "dog house" plenum can help but the seal between the cowl and plenum is a problem. I have an idea I show below on how to keep the cowl stock but change the inlet.
Leaks do reduce the differential pressure across the cylinders. Differential pressure from above to below the cylinders is what drives the air to do cooling work. A sealed solid plenum is KEY to no leaks.
The question is whether to stick with the stock rectangular inlets or round widely spaced inlets (ala James Aircraft). If you stick with rectangle you will have some challenge sealing the plenum to the cowl. Round obviously with a soft flex hose and clamps is easier to seal 100%. Round is just more practical for duct work. However what jeff did "RV_7A did is awesome, I'm impressed, nice work. You can seal rectangles and ducts but its a challenge.
There are other key reasons for using a round inlet. With a round inlet it's easier to make a more aerodynamic transition, which causes less turbulence in the first part of the inlet. Note smooth transition and 100% sealing between cowl inlet and plenum:
You will have turbulence with any design, but the design of a round "scoop" with an aerodynamic lip and inner profile means the air will not become turbulent, stall or stagnate as soon, which determines the efficiency. Also the air the farther from the spinner is cleaner due to the prop blades. The prop blade shank is blunt. Note reverse flow in the inlet near the spinner:
With a round inlet, you can put all your required area as far outboard as possible, verses a narrow letter box rectangle shape. Note how round inlet give better pressure. (Cp=coefficient of pressure but don't worry what it is, just compare the two inlet styles and a 10% is not insignificant.) Also not the even inlet flow and more pressure outboard, near the hot cylinder valve area. (In the top left corner, prop air flow is shown. Further towards the tip the better.):
More efficiency means you can make the inlet smaller and still maintain equivalent cooling with less cooling drag, which means more speed. The idea is NOT better cooling just the same cooling with less air or less drag. If I did not want to go the full James Aircraft style I would make a plenum and stock inlet smaller. Reduced height and width filling in from inboard edge. You can seal a rectangle duct with clamps. You make a plug deal like this, which nests inside the existing cowl inlet. The beauty is you can change is. This is some what like what Al and Bob Axom have done.
Hot CHT is NOT the plenums fault:
In my opinion its a red herring. Van's set up is fine from a cooling stand point if you pay attention to details and seal as best you can. The inlet size of Vans cowl are actually large enough, even if there are leaks. Now if you go to smaller round or rectangular inlets, the inlet area goes down by a large amount, so you have to have more efficient cooling with less air, to stay on par. The reward is less drag.
HIGH CHT is cause by several things like:
-Casting flash (lycs known for cast-flash left in fins during manufacture)
-Engine break-in (believe it, carbon build-up makes a thermal shield, lack of it on new engines allows engine to absorb more heat)
-Lower baffling TOO tight on cylinder #3-right rear or #2-front left shallow fins (see pic below, trick increase lower baffle/fin gap)
- At 100F OAT, gross wt climb to 8.5 might mean you need to increase speed to keep CHT in check. It's a trade off of cruise efficiency and climb CHT.