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Exhaust Pipe Supports - ??

BillSchlatterer

Well Known Member
Sponsor
Just a little confused and advise from anyone is welcome. All I have for directions on the exhaust pipe supports is a one page sketch and it really doesn't line up very well. I have a standard O-360 A1A in the 7a and it's kinda difficult to see how the supports come off the engine case and line up with anything that would attach to the pipe brackets. Maybe the instructions are for a 6?

Any pictures or advise about where you put the connecting pipe cross piece through (like in front or behind the gear leg) and which case bolts did you attach to would be helpful.

Did you put the pipe brackets ahead or behind the bend/angle on the pipe itself. It obviously has to go behind the heat muff but how far?

As always, a couple of good pictures or link would probably say it all.

Thanks
Bill S
7a Ark Finishing
 
It's a real challange. I moved mine at least a dozen times as I added fuel lines, control cables etc. The cross pipe is now attached just at the bend in the pipe and crosses above (in front of) the gear leg. The case attaching brackets are where ever I could put them again working around hoses etc.

We will see where they end up being in the end!

Larry
 
Trash them!

I had the same issue. At my first condition inspection, I had one broke and the others loose. I purchased about $16 dollars worth of exhaust hangers from Advance Auto Parts, cut and modified for a clean fit and installed them. Zero issues since. When I get a chance, I will photograph and e-mail you.
 
Thanks, pictures seem to say it all! After a little fumbling around, I think I have found the right anchor points on the case but all of the hangers need trimming which I assume to be normal.

Bill S
 
Bill:
Just a word of caution. Make sure you have a minimum of 1/2-3/4 in. clearance between the pipes and the nose gear support structure. My pipes were banging against the lower brace and had caused some damage to the tubes (no damage to the pipes). Also, make sure you inspect the hangars whenever you remove the lower cowl. The method used to manufacture the hangars (squeezing the ends flat and drilling) makes them prone to failure at this point. Finally, be careful of using extra supports between engine and mount. Pipes need to move with the engine or they'll fracture at the flanges.
Terry
 
Scuff up the stainless tubes. Scratch the heck out of them with some 80 grit so they can bite into the rubber tubing. Otherwise, the slick tubes will slide around.
 
I chucked mine steel tubing up in my drill press and carefully made small groves with a file to prevent the hose from slipping and I also didnt use the hose that came with the kit. It was greased down with some seriously slimey lube. I used some fresh squeeky injector hose from AeroZone.

-Jeff
 
You will find that the pipe hangers do slip around a bit in the beginning. But after a few hours of flying the hose seem to bond themselves to the steel pipe quite well, and will not budge.
 
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