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  #731  
Old 02-22-2014, 06:32 AM
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DanH DanH is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: 08A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scard View Post
Dan and I overlapped the forward edge on top of the top skin instead of matching the height of the forward edge. It will act as a bit of a wind/rain scoop depending on fit.
Looks like this Paul...about an inch of glass, maybe a bit more, added to the front edge of the canopy frame to overlap the screw line. Brian intended it to be a flush fit, but there's no bulkhead under that screw line, just a double-flushed strip doubler. It's hard to convince the unsupported edge of the aluminum to conform to the exact profile of the pre-molded fiberglass. I debated reworking the glass to match the aluminum for the intended flush fit (which would not be hard to do). In the end I liked the appearance of hiding the screw line.



As the overlap was laid up with the canopy frame latched firmly to the fuselage, the original fit conformed to the aluminum perfectly. In the first year the right side developed a gap of about 0.050" along a stretch of 3" of so (arrows). I think it's from the weight of the canopy when sitting open in the sun. Note that the fit of a flush setup would have changed the same way. Anyway, there's an air leak there that gets directed across the face of the panel by the internal canopy rib. I've threatened to install a smaller version of a blow-up seal like Dave Buntin did on his slider, but it's so "not bad" that 3 years later there is still no motivation. Worst case, I pull on nomex gloves when OAT is below freezing. Compared to a slider, these tip-overs are hermetically sealed.

There's no right or wrong here; do what you like. Scott and I are tugging Brian's appendage just a bit

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Last edited by DanH : 01-30-2015 at 07:53 AM.
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  #732  
Old 02-22-2014, 07:41 PM
PaulT PaulT is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: South Australia
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Thanks Dan, that explains it perfectly.
I won't mind having those screws visible. It'll at least give the appearance of some structure beneath.
There is a bit of flex at the doubler. I'll see how things looks when I get there.
And anyhow, an extra (non planned) shot of cool air would generally be a blessing where I am.

I remembered seeing a pic (below) showing the area you pointed to, (albeit on the other side), illustrating the potential challenge of getting things to fit.

I think it was Bud Silvers'.

Paul.

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  #733  
Old 06-08-2014, 10:50 PM
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Blain Blain is offline
 
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Location: El Dorado Hills, CA
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Default Fun under the skirts!

Weekend of fitting the skirts to a Sika bonded Todds canopy. Plenty of re-inventing the wheel here.
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  #734  
Old 06-20-2014, 05:37 AM
Morraine Morraine is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Warwick, Queensland, Australia
Posts: 34
Default Bonding skirt to canopy

Hi,
Have recently sika bonded my Vans canopy to my canopy frame and am wondering what bonding medium you are using to attach the canopy skirt to the canopy frame and bottom of the canopy.
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  #735  
Old 06-20-2014, 11:38 PM
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Blain Blain is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Morraine View Post
Hi,
Have recently sika bonded my Vans canopy to my canopy frame and am wondering what bonding medium you are using to attach the canopy skirt to the canopy frame and bottom of the canopy.
Actually doing that this weekend. Same Sika product. 295. Cut the number of rivets in half and bonding the perimeter of the frame but not the vertical bars. Masked off the area to contact Sika so it will be to raw fiberglass. Thin spacer between canopy and skirt.

If you haven't trimmed the skirt yet, be aware that the additional thickness of the sika changes the position of the skirt. I trimmed to scribe mark and was too short. Had to build it back up. Added another week of build time.

Will shoot some pics this weekend and post.
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  #736  
Old 07-03-2014, 02:50 PM
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flyboykelly flyboykelly is offline
 
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Location: Port Orange, FL (7FL6)
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Default Radial RV-8 update

Hi all,
I've been busy working on all of the small things to get her ready for flight. The prop and avionics are the only big ticket items left. Here are some pics on my progress. For regular updates you can go to my Facebook page, http://www.facebook.com/radialconversions. Happy fourth to everyone!

Brian

http://
http://
http://
http://
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Last edited by flyboykelly : 07-03-2014 at 02:53 PM.
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  #737  
Old 07-03-2014, 05:17 PM
Sig600 Sig600 is offline
 
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It may not be the fastest or most efficient, but it's going to be the most kickass RV-8 ever! Me want!!! Can't wait to see and hear it run and fly!

How is it going to affect CG?
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  #738  
Old 07-03-2014, 05:43 PM
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flyboykelly flyboykelly is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sig600 View Post
It may not be the fastest or most efficient, but it's going to be the most kickass RV-8 ever! Me want!!! Can't wait to see and hear it run and fly!

How is it going to affect CG?
It's definately going to sound cool. The cg should be right where it is with any other RV. Rotec built the mount to my specs, so I had the liberty of picking the CG position. I chose to mount it a little bit closer to the forward side of the envelope. The engine weighs 275 lbs, which is about the same as a Lycoming O-320.
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See the worlds only radial powered RV-8 at;

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  #739  
Old 07-04-2014, 10:21 AM
dealfair dealfair is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sig600 View Post
It may not be the fastest or most efficient, but it's going to be the most kickass RV-8 ever! Me want!!! Can't wait to see and hear it run and fly!
DOUBLE DITTO!!!
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  #740  
Old 07-04-2014, 11:00 AM
Sonex 541 Sonex 541 is offline
 
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Wow , wow , all I gotta say is wow , what more could you ask for , what a ultimate setup. Is there any rv,s right now flying with a radial or anyone else doing this setup , , I think it's cool
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