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How I prime my internal structure

How I prime my internal structure

Hi all. I have done a lot of research on priming and painting. A lot of that research was done right here on this forum. To prime or not to prime?
IMHO, for my local environment, I think a minimum is that I need to prime mated surfaces.
I did that on my rudder, elevator, and HS. I did that using a rattle can etch from Napa. I was looking for something a little less toxic and thought I could use the time spent priming the parts to learn how to how to use a painting spray gun. Hmmm. Maybe I can learn how to spray well enough to paint the aircraft when it is all done.
Open to constructive criticism.
But, not looking to start any prime debate here.

Started working on the Tailcone. Attached is what the part looks like after the Stewart Systems EkoClean, EkoEtch, and EkoPrime. Took a little time, but it looks great. And the white should help me see any rust that might pop up.

I poured some car gas on a primed test part and left it in the sun all day.
No evident deterioration of the primer was noticed.

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FWIW - and that may be nothing - but various tests for many environmental conditions and aluminum alloys show that the most effective primer for copper alloys contains a high (by solids weight) percentage of zinc chromate. Like 10-15%. There are 1K and 2K primers with this compound. All the highly loaded structural alloys contain copper. It is clad and only exposed on edges which is one reason for the various discussions of primers. You can get rattle can primers (1K) from sky geek and it would be fine for interior areas what wont get a top coat. Why no top coat? - - these primers can usually be removed with acetone. 2K primers can not and are required for most solvent based topcoats.

If you want corrosion protection, ease of application, reasonable cost and the parts are not exposed and desirable of top coats, then it may be a good option. Comes in the standard primer green.
 
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