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  #21  
Old 01-10-2015, 11:37 PM
Mike S's Avatar
Mike S Mike S is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Dayton Airpark, NV A34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by koda2 View Post
That way six months from now -A drivers won't have to get to the internet and track down an old thread on a forum to review this info.
That is why I made it a sticky------will stay at the top of the maintenance forum.
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VAF 909

Rv-10, N210LM.

Flying as of 12/4/2010

Phase 1 done, 2/4/2011

Sold after 240+ wonderful hours of flight.

"Flying the airplane is more important than radioing your plight to a person on the ground incapable of understanding or doing anything about it."
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  #22  
Old 01-11-2015, 10:24 AM
Rupester Rupester is offline
 
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Location: Mahomet, Illinois
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This is an excellent and valuable thread. Many thanks to Walt and the other contributors.
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Terry Ruprecht
RV-9A Tip-up; IO-320 D2A
S. James cowl/plenum
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  #23  
Old 01-13-2015, 11:55 AM
BillL BillL is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central IL
Posts: 4,413
Default Thanks, Walt et.al.

Thanks to the team for assembling and posting this information. I sent a note to DR about a way to submit, vet and post such information for future reference by builders and owners. This is a very good start. A very very good start.

Vans has neither the resources or goal to do such documentation for the masses. They certainly can aid in the vetting, but liabilities may limit the ability to officially participate. This leaves the collective experience here on VAF.

The good information is heavily diluted and churned, so this type of dissemination is highly valuable.

EDIT: I put this into a pdf file, so if you want one, PM/email me and I will send it. It includes credits to authors. pictures and some formatting. It is rough, but available for your digital library. I would appreciate if an author would review it for format and suggestions.
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Last edited by BillL : 01-31-2015 at 05:06 AM. Reason: added information.
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  #24  
Old 01-30-2015, 10:54 PM
gerrychuck gerrychuck is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Moose Jaw, SK, Canada
Posts: 526
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What is the specified torque for the nut on the gear strut/engine mount bolt?
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Gerry Julian
Moose Jaw Saskatchewan
RV6A "Second Wind" C-GERZ (born N242UL)
O-360 A1A, Sensenich FP prop

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  #25  
Old 01-31-2015, 06:40 AM
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Walt Walt is offline
 
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Location: Dallas/Ft Worth, TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gerrychuck View Post
What is the specified torque for the nut on the gear strut/engine mount bolt?
Per 43.13: 100-140 in/lbs (plus running torque)
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Walt Aronow, Dallas, TX (52F) RV7A, IO360, C/S, 1500+hrs

EXP Aircraft Services LLC
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  #26  
Old 01-31-2015, 08:45 AM
NYTOM NYTOM is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Raleigh, North Carolina
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Passed up this post for days now thinking it was just another rehash of the nose gear argument . It turns out that I think it is one of the most important, informative posts on the subject and that all nose draggers could learn from. Made a hard copy to put in the box with my gear equipment as a reminder and reference to improved practices. Thanks Walt, you've helped me again. I just wonder how many RV accidents/ incidents have been avoided due to the existence of the VAF site and it wealth of information.
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Classic "Short Tail Six" A Model N822PM (Res)
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  #27  
Old 01-31-2015, 09:48 AM
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rzbill rzbill is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Asheville, NC
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Default B&S vs AN386

Quote:
Originally Posted by ChiefPilot View Post
it all went very smoothly EXCEPT for the reamer.

In short, the reamer sold by ACS was of very poor quality. It stopped making chips after getting only about 1/3rd of the way through. Dressing it allowed it to go another few turns making very fine chips, but then it would stop and need to be dressed again. A slightly more expensive tool from MSC Industrial finished the ream very quickly and is still razor sharp.
Interesting, maybe that was my problem (not cutting) from the beginning since all 3 reamers I bought came from spruce. Tried dressing the reams with a stone but no luck.

While I am typing and since the conversation is about tapers and buying reams other than at spruce, I wanted to share a little more detail about the ream tapers vs AN386 tapers. This is only to head off future questions about my EDM print by dilligent persons. If you look at the spec differences between Brown and Sharpe tapers and AN386 tapers, there is a descrepancy of .001" per foot specifically on the size of pin we are using. The rest of the sizes match perfectly. To my knowledge, there is no such thing as an AN386 ream. The AN386 taper pins all (with our one exception) follow the geometry of the B&S tapers. It is my opinion that the AN386 pin drawing is "simplified" because the difference is slight and partially compensated by the taper tolerance noted.

Practically, the difference is not confidently measurable on the machined taper bore, even with common machine shop tools like a CMM because it is in the .0000x (ten thousanths of an inch) size range difference. Many factors unrelated to the part itself come into play when discerning measurements that small.

My print follows the B&S standard.
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Bill Pendergrass
RV-7A: Flying since April 15, 2012. 710hrs
YIO-360-M1B, mags, CS, GRT EX and WS H1s & A/P, Navworx
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  #28  
Old 05-27-2015, 07:38 PM
maus92 maus92 is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Annapolis MD
Posts: 387
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My RV-8A was completed in year 2000. When I was doing pre-purchase due diligence, the title search company discovered a NTSB report a few years later regarding a nose gear incident w/o prop strike. Apparently the strut was replaced with the larger diameter model according to my measurement, but alas, this was before the new fork was designed. The second owner was unaware of the incident, and he elected not to replace the fork / shorten the strut when the mandatory SB was released. I am the third owner and I am going to perform the SB, but I'm not sure what direction to go regarding the nose wheel. I'm leaning towards the Antisplat Aero solution that machines the stock wheel to accept new sealed bearings, with spacers that allow torquing the axle bolt to specs without binding the wheel - mainly because it's cheaper, and eliminates the taper bearings. I noticed that Matco offers a new axle that is similar to the Grove axle included with their wheel - which involves drilling hole to accept pins / bolts that prevent the spacers from rotating, somehow improving the torquing procedure, but retains the taper bearing and their periodic servicing requirement. The AntiSplat solution does not require the pins. Any thoughts about which way to go?
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2000 RV-8A | O-360, SDS CPI, FP, G3X Touch, VP-X, EarthX | Eastern Shore | KESN
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  #29  
Old 05-28-2015, 09:19 AM
gasman gasman is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Sonoma County
Posts: 3,435
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I would look into the Grove tubeless wheel and Desser tubeless tire. Then send the wheel in to Antisplat Aero for the bearings and spacer......

$$$ but, you will have a fine set-up and solve many nose wheel problems.

Wheel should spin free...... about 3 to 5 rotations or so. Breakout should be set to 22+ lbs. of pull with the wheel off the ground. Check it a few times after some use until it settles in.
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  #30  
Old 07-26-2015, 08:11 PM
JoeLofton JoeLofton is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 144
Default Sharpening a Dull Taper Pin Reamer

Another method of dressing a dull taper pin reamer that worked for me. Using your finely calibrated eyeball as a guide, lightly press the outside flat of each flute against the flat side of a spinning Scotchbrite wheel on a bench grinder. Use a light touch, just enough to brighten the flute.
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