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TK's RV-8

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Your crafsmanship look great! I wish I had ordered the match drilled fuselage, but they came out a month after my order shipped.:( Keep up the great work!:cool:
 
Question for Glen

My compressor tank is at 175 psi, my lines are at 150 psi and most of my drops are 120 psi (the exception being the pain shop which is most often at 60 psi)

Glen,

I just HAVE to ask... since I don't have one of these rooms... just what goes on in there anyway?? Drilling holes through your finger? Accidents with the rivet squeezer? Dropping bucking bars on your toes? Dungeons & Dragons?

INQUIRING MINDS WANNA KNOW

hahaha :D :D :D
 
LOL ! The "pain shop" is where I go when I start getting full of myself, thinking I can do no wrong and am capable of magic. Needless to say, that room sets me right is short order. One of the last things out of that room was not part of my RV-8 but a worthy project all the same -> the box.
 
Tony - start thinking about the panel now!

I'm not saying you should be thinking about what equipment you will use. Rather, realize you can't read the future so plan that you WILL change your panel SOONER OR LATER. (ugh).

Do a little "future-proofing". Trust me, I've been climbing around in a finished RV-8. It's not for us bigger order men. :eek:
 
Glen, thanks for the tip. I am aware that the future will require maintainence, my current RV proves it. I have made, and plan to make more mods on my build to allow for easy access to all components but I do get discouraged thinking about the mountain of work ahead of me while I tinker with a mod. Following the plan takes a long time, incorporating a mod takes FOREVER. :rolleyes:
 
Gear tower parts ready for primer. I usually don't prime all parts but since this will be painted I figured I might as well prime everything.
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Took a scothbrite pad to the powder coated weldments along with some 320 grit. Seems like it worked fine.
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Coming together!
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There is a ton of work to do with these towers. I was hoping it would go faster but it hasn't....

Getting ready for final riveting.....
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After all this work I find out I made a mistake. Instruction call for clecoing the towers to the forward floor, well. the holes did NOT line up!! :eek:

Did Van's misalign the holes? Do I have a bad floor? Is this common? What is the fix? On to VAF, emergency situation! Find my answer rather quickly. David Dormier has his build on here and he made the same mistake I did. I had the floor angles installed improperly....

This aft bracket has 6 holes and is correct.
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This one only has 5 which is WRONG!!
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Here we go....
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Drill out rivets, remove the carefully torqued bolts, etc etc!

Ok...that's better! The holes line up.
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Almost had a heart attack. :mad:

Started final riveting!! FINALLY!
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Moving forward preparing the mid cabin braces.
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Finished riveting the gear towers and adding the braces.
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Preparing forward fuse assembly/baggage area.
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Ready for riveting.
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There is one thing I want to do here while I have complete access. I want to add a panel access door that so many have done before. I have worked underneath my -7A panel before and I suspect working under an -8 panel would be even worse. This mod will allow access through a door behind the panel.

First step, remove the webbing from the upper bulkhead.
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This should be an easy task after you get it all drawn up but for some reason, my Sioux die grinder doesn't do a very good job. It bogs down and is weak. (The air is set at 90+ psi) Anyway, it took awhile.
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All cleaned up!
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Now I have to make the doubler to add some strength back to the upper bulkhead.
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Ready to go and playing with hinge alignement.
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The door!
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Ready to prime!
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Other builders say this mod takes about a half a day. Well, I must be slow because it took me most of the day and that was just fabricating and preparing the parts for riveting.

The next morning I riveted the doubler to the bulkhead and clecoed the door and hinge to the assembly. Only thing left to do is drill for and install nutplates to fasten the door closed.

I thought I had nice spacing and everything was going smooth until I turned the part over.....:eek::eek:

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Calm down....think it through...Ok, I just need to remove the doubler and make it a bit wider. This will allow me to still use the bulkhead and the door. So I drill out the rivets and go to work on a new doubler. As if this mod hasn't taken me long enough!! Deviating from the plans SUCK!!

Here we go....
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MUCH BETTER!
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Doubler primed and installed!! Glad that's over!
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Working towards riveting the firewall to the forward floor assembly but I have to use fuel tank sealant where they mate to prevent oil and such from leaking inside the cockpit.
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my RV-8 has two access doors rather than one but the idea is the same. I will say, they are not as easy to use as you would hope - given you are trying to reach in thru the baggage door area and thus are bending your arms around.

It's good to have the access but I also recommend you really think about "maintainability" when you get to your panel design.

Having lived with this setup for a while, I am taking a the approach and making a self contained, removable panel. details to follow :)
 
I'm thinking I may mount the fuse panels to the door....but I am so far from electrical work, who knows?
 
I'm thinking I may mount the fuse panels to the door....but I am so far from electrical work, who knows?

You are at the perfect stage to start to plan you electrical system, and to install the necessary conduit work for the wiring.

You are much better to have extra conduit, than to have extra wires.

Dont forget pull strings.
 
Working towards riveting the firewall to the forward floor assembly but I have to use fuel tank sealant where they mate to prevent oil and such from leaking inside the cockpit.

Is fuel tank sealant recommended here? I thought I remembered reading that there is a "firewall sealant" that's more resistant to high temps than tank sealant? I'm standing by to be corrected...
 
Tony - don't bother buying any fire sealant. I have 10 cartridges of Fire Barrier 2000+

BTW: anyone else needing some, it's free FOB 53VG :)
 
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LongRanger,
The plans call for tank sealant but I have read numerous threads about alternate sealant. I have neither so I'll just go with the high temp stuff.

Glen,
I'll be down!!
 
On to the center section.
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Drilled some holes and made a bracket out of some angle. I am being VERY careful here so I don't screw up the crucial center section.
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All parts prepared. Just have to prime then I can start riveting.
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I was able to squeeze some rivets but not all. My confidence in riveting with the gun is growing. Especially on parts that are so accessible.
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Now for the aft section.
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Rivets look pretty good to me. I have to get someone with experience to come check out my project thus far just to be sure.
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Plans call for fabricating a wooden spacer to sandwich between the forward and aft sections. It is crucial to be at 1.438" and I couldnt figure out how I was going to make that out of wood. So I opted for these....
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The fittings were approx. 40 cents a piece so I couldn't go wrong. Too bad they didnt come cut to length! :rolleyes: I measured and marked, then cut with a bandsaw. Final adjustments made with my bench sander.
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Worked out real nice! I'm happy.
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Exact!!
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Center section complete.
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Next up, mid cabin seat ribs. Plans had me make these spacers for the rear spar.
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Then I had to make these from AA063 3/4 x 3/4. Problem was...I didn't have that angle and I looked EVERYWHERE! Spent a good 45 minutes before consulting VAF. Found the answer immediately. Those angles are 12' long and inside the longeron tube.
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Clecoed all the parts together then had to sit and scratch my head for awhile. Plans say to install the manual trim at this time....they refer you to the optional drawing with the trim kit. Ok, not too bad but the drawing is SMALL and harder to read. Also, the intructions are assuming a retrofit type of situation. AND it tells you to cut the ribs but (fortunately) they are already cut!! All this creates confusion and down time even though the work is basically done for you. It just takes awhile for it all to sink in.
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Slapped on the skins too!
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Doesn't look like too much work but it WAS!! I dismantled it and ended up with this pile!

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The next several hours were spent deburring lightening holes, rivet holes, edges, etc etc. Then prepare for primer. I wanted to prime on this same day so it would be cured by morning, that meant I had to keep working into the night. I started working around 10 in the morning and wasn't done til nearly 3 AM!!! 15 hours straight on the project is a LONG time!
 
FINALLY ready for primer.
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At this point, it was time for BED!

Woke up the next morning and started putting it back together.
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That's about as far as I got today before having to go to work. I'm a bit tired but those marathon sessions can really get your project on the move. I should be done with the mid cabin ribs sometime tomorrow or the next day. :D Then it's LONGERON bending time!!
 
Rear Spar Carry thru

See that relief cut in the bottom flange of the rear spar carry thru? There is a shop head that will reside in that slot in just a few days or weeks. As I riveted the skin to this assembly I wished that I had widened that slot just a bit to provide a happy home for the tail of that one rivet. You might study yours and see if you will need a little extra real estate in that area.
 
Robert,
I am trying (and failing) to visualize your tip. I think you are talking about the 2nd picture above your post. You mean the center relief cut in the rear spar attach bulkhead (F-806B-1)?... if so, I think you mean the bottom where it will meet the skin....so...I am confused by your advice...:confused:
 
Great progress Tony

Looks like your making great progress. Before you know it will be ready for my scales:). Where's your Russian cousin - figured I'd see him hiding in your shop.
Keep pounding!!
 
Robert,
I am trying (and failing) to visualize your tip. I think you are talking about the 2nd picture above your post. You mean the center relief cut in the rear spar attach bulkhead (F-806B-1)?... if so, I think you mean the bottom where it will meet the skin....so...I am confused by your advice...:confused:

You got it. The skin rivets to the bottom of the F-806B but there is a rivet connecting the F-826 and F-827 skins at the lap joint which resides in that relief cut. Make sure your relief cut is wide enough to accept the shop head. Just a tiny little detail that is easily over looked. Ask me how I know? :cool:
 
Awesome!!

Your build is looking awesome Tony.

Keep pounding !!! :cool:

You give me wings (no pun here..) to build on and get to that fuselage.
Once that done, I think about half the work is done... Or is it??? :eek:

Cheers
 
Tony, with regard to the trim system, all that goes in now are the brackets. Its a lot easier now than later. The trim install narrative is old and was written before pre punch days.

I just finished installing the rest of it and am wondering if it is really necessary with the 8. I may uninstall it and see how the airplane flies without it. With center line seating and properly rigged ailerons it ought to be trimmed as is. I don't like the cable mechanism, it works but seems awkward with the handle moving up and down rather than left and right.
 
Catch-alls

Those benches look like mine. It's OK if it has been in a days work but more than that and I can relate.:)
Erik
 
Tony,
I'm not sure what your plans are, but IF you plan on having removable floors [nut plates and screws] The time to drill the holes and fit the nut plates to the floor ribs and rear spar, is NOW! At this stage, it's easy to do. Later will require 3 times the work and a sore back. Just ask Bill Shook.
Charlie
 
Charlie,
I am on the fence about removable floors. But you're right saying that NOW is the time.

Robert,
I gave the relief cut a bit more relief! :D

David,
I think the fuel level MAY come into play as far as trim is concerned so I will add it. I follow your build (and many others) and I learn a lot from you guys. Can you explain your permanent floor decision a bit more?

Everyone else,
Thanks for the encouragement. There are times when the slightest comment keeps me focused and on track between those long hours of work.
 
Tony, if you are on the fence about additional floor accessibility, we can talk. My plane is semi-reopened at the moment with the new access chase installed. You can take a look. There is also an option that makes only half the floor removable.
 
David,
I think the fuel level MAY come into play as far as trim is concerned so I will add it. I follow your build (and many others) and I learn a lot from you guys. Can you explain your permanent floor decision a bit more?

.
Tony,

I did not want to spend the time to install or the money for plate nuts to do it. The primary focus here is to get this machine in the air, nothing else. There's no other reason to build it - time's a wasting. :)

The floor went in permanent but only after making sure wires could be easily slipped under it through a conduit.
 
Tony,

I did not want to spend the time to install or the money for plate nuts to do it. The primary focus here is to get this machine in the air, nothing else. There's no other reason to build it - time's a wasting. :)

The floor went in permanent but only after making sure wires could be easily slipped under it through a conduit.

Tony, I agree completely with David. Spend the extra time it would take to install nutplates on something else. I installed removable floors in the baggage compartment and the seat floorboard area of my -6. Van says pop rivet these areas. In 2 years I have never removed them (after final install). I did run extra conduits under it all for wiring access in the future.

With that said, I placed my strobe power supply under the baggage compartment removal floor area. I hope I never have to remove it :D

ps thanks for the heads up on Vlad's sudden absence.:)
 
Haven't updated for awhile because I haven't done much work. Holidays and life tend to get in the way.

Anyway, back to the mid cabin floor. Anybody notice anything amiss here?
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DaAV8R gave me some advice. Glad I took it. Here is that relief cut that interferes with setting the floor skin rivet.
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Ready for skins.
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Came out nice despite the fact that a second rivet man wasn't available.
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Here she is sitting pretty....
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I finally completed the longeron bending. I did the intermediates myself but had Russian assistance for the long ones. No pictures of that but its just trial and error until you get it right. In my case, I didn't get them EXACTLY right but they fit well enough that I decided to BUILD ON!

Prepared and put bends in the reenforcement plates/gussets.
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Fit the intermediate longerons and started drilling holes.
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Things are taking shape. The gear tower plates fit well and the pre-punched holes lined up fairly well except near the top. Instructions say to flute or unflute as necessary to make the holes line up. I tried this for a bit but I was unable to improve the alignment. I had to coax the parts to line up and was able to get clecos installed with minimum effort.
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Looking good!!!

Looking good Tony!!!

And you say I'm catching you...

One day I will though, once both our planes are flying, ahaha !!
 
Really thin seat belts?

You are going to have to use a really thin seat belt attach bracket. You probably ought to cut one out of a bee... I mean pop can since you turned both those brackets the same direction :D
 
I put it out there but didn't think anyone was going to notice. After I riveted it I thought, why did the use 2 pieces when 1 thicker piece would have worked? Staring CLOSELY at the drawing it occurred to me what I had done. :rolleyes:

These kits are much like the airplanes....when something is amiss, the airplane will tell you. Same goes for the kit.
 
I would put some AN7 bolts thru the spar box to keep it aligned . I see you have spacers to keep the width right.
Tom
 
Mating large pieces together is a huge motivater. I started on the side skin bends. Seems very critical they way they have you fabricate the 2 x 4 and clamp it down. Not sure why they wanted the 2 x 4 beveled on both edges when just the working edge would have worked just fine.
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Next up was cutting the 2 5/8" hole for the rear cooling. I had never used a fly-cutter before so there was a curve. I wasnt exactly sure where to make the measurement on the cutter but I got it set up in the drill press, adjusted the press belts for solow speed, test fit the side rib just to see what it would look like. WOAH!!! I caught myself about to make a 5 1/4" hole!! I figured out my mistake and dialed in the cutter properly.

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Came out nicely although the hole is just a hair small. I figured this way I could always enlarge the hole but I could never make it smaller.

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Right side skin clecoed in place.

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My bends were a little too tight so I used the vice to work it into place.

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Both side skins on complete with arm rests!
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Mating the forward and mid cabin together was a bit of a chore for 1 person but I managed.
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Then came the forward skins.
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The obligatory "Looks like an airplane"...
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Everything fit reasonably well. The forward skins were challenging where they mate up with the side skins and center section which I hope match drilling will help with. The side skins also have a slight wave in them at the top which concerns me but I have been advised it will all sit nicely when rivets and the longerons come into play. I hope so...

On to the rear bulkheads. Carefully cut this angle into 5 or so parts.
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The WD-409 and its instructions were vague and this is a CRITICAL step. Misdrill here and your tailwheel will be permenantly out of alignment. I had to read several builders sites to make head or tails of it. I am still not completely comfortable with the instructions because the builder sites say there has been a revision to the plan dimensions. Van's must have not corrected this issue because I have the old dimensions listed on my plans. Hoping for the best and building on here.
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Cleaned and prepped for primer.
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Spar

Looks like you have some AN4 bolts in place , the AN7 will insure perfect alinement , easy to do now .
Tom
 
I've neglected to update for awhile so I better bring it up to date.

Clecoed the side skins and arm rests in place. The bigger the sctructure gets the better it looks.
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I slid a few more bolts through the center section to assure alignment.
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The bulkheads were fitted together, matchdrilled and deburred. This process takes awhile because of all the nooks and crannies of the bulkhead flanges. Of course prepping and priming take even longer.
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After reading about delays some builders had with Todd's canopy, my preferred canopy, I ordered it EARLY. Well, I had no trouble getting mine and it was 7 days from first email to delivery.
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It looks really cool. I expected it to be stiff but it is quite flexible...more than I thought it would be.
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