So I'm reading in my plans that if I want I can have a different pitot tube on my wing and AOA as well. I don't know the options for what is available or how to make the adjustments to install different things. What can I read and look at to make an educated decision/purchase?
Van's Air Force
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RV-14 Pitot Tube/AOA lines
- Thread starter JDA_BTR
- Start date
wirejock
Well Known Member
Pitot
Most other model builders install the plumbing and mast then decide on pitot/AOA later but if you plan on heated pitot, you also want to look at the placement of the heater controller now or for the future. Brand of avionics may also drive the decision.
Most other model builders install the plumbing and mast then decide on pitot/AOA later but if you plan on heated pitot, you also want to look at the placement of the heater controller now or for the future. Brand of avionics may also drive the decision.
I moved the Vans supplied Pitot parts to the opposite wing as an unheated independent Pitot for my backup EFIS (small Dynon or GRT mini type). Then I installed a Gretz pitot mast near the proper location. Don't worry about the manufacturer of the pitot tube yet. The Gretz mast fits most of the major brands.
Stockmanreef
Well Known Member
so you bought the following kit:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/averytookforskyview.php
I assume that it is cheaper to buy as a kit than to buy stuff separately.
ken
Stockmanreef
Well Known Member
I also am at the point where I was making the decision about the pitot. Well actually i stopped thinking about it and purchased a Garmin heated pitot and the gretz mast.
I think that I will take the Tim Olson approach and mount the pitot in the last bay on the wing. I am concerned about having the pitot where Van's suggests, since it is right next to the tie down. http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/wing/20050206/index.html
I am wondering if I should have a spare pitot. Put in the Vans on one side and the garmin on the other. Maybe this is overkill.
ken
I think that I will take the Tim Olson approach and mount the pitot in the last bay on the wing. I am concerned about having the pitot where Van's suggests, since it is right next to the tie down. http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/wing/20050206/index.html
I am wondering if I should have a spare pitot. Put in the Vans on one side and the garmin on the other. Maybe this is overkill.
ken
Felt like renewing this thread again.
I'm at the step where it is time to make the 7/16 hole for the little aluminum pitot tube. I would like a heated pitot option and the standard install does not provide for that.
If I don't want AOA, can I just get the Gretz mast and run the single line of tubing to that location? I'm not sure how the AOA works but it looks like people have two tubing runs for that? Having never used an AOA I don't know what I'm missing.
What is the least exciting, plain jane way to get a heated pitot going here? All I know about is the Gretz mast and the Garmin heated pitot.
I'm at the step where it is time to make the 7/16 hole for the little aluminum pitot tube. I would like a heated pitot option and the standard install does not provide for that.
If I don't want AOA, can I just get the Gretz mast and run the single line of tubing to that location? I'm not sure how the AOA works but it looks like people have two tubing runs for that? Having never used an AOA I don't know what I'm missing.
What is the least exciting, plain jane way to get a heated pitot going here? All I know about is the Gretz mast and the Garmin heated pitot.
Dudley, if you are not sure about wanting AOA you can just install the Gretz pitot mast and move on. You definitely want a mast mount type pitot instead of the stock hydraulic tubing pitot. The wing altready has extra holes that will allow you to run the AOA sense line later if you want. You can choose the pitot you want later when you start buying avionics.
Okay - one last question (three really)
I'm reading the Gap 26 install instructions and I can't tell how many wires run from the fuselage to the regulator. I read that I would want 12 AWG hot and ground. And perhaps there is a sensor wire?
And if I run the AOA tubing just because the mast has it and why not, can an AOA line be run in the gap between the skin and rib where the j-stiffener runs under the top skin? Any pitfalls in that?
The plans have us coil the unneeded tubing in the bay outboard of the 4th rib. Later on where is the pitot tubing run at the wing root? Where at the root is there room for the AOA line so as to not interfere.
I'm reading the Gap 26 install instructions and I can't tell how many wires run from the fuselage to the regulator. I read that I would want 12 AWG hot and ground. And perhaps there is a sensor wire?
And if I run the AOA tubing just because the mast has it and why not, can an AOA line be run in the gap between the skin and rib where the j-stiffener runs under the top skin? Any pitfalls in that?
The plans have us coil the unneeded tubing in the bay outboard of the 4th rib. Later on where is the pitot tubing run at the wing root? Where at the root is there room for the AOA line so as to not interfere.
I didn't worry about adding any additional wiring other than the factory harness. I figured if I can get my arm in the wing to buck every rivet, then running pitot tubes and a few wires will be easy. I think there are enough unused snap bushings to accommodate the AOA sense line, but if not I just installed AOA tubing in the wing of an RV-9A last week and ran it inside of the upper stringer and it worked out well.
You have a point. It probably isn't too hard to get something from the inboard end to the pitot - going all the way to the tip looks a big hassle. It does seem that gap at the stiffener would be prefect for a AOA line....
What do you think about the SafeAir connectors?
What do you think about the SafeAir connectors?
I have only used them once before, but i will use them in my build. I bought the "Skyview air kit" which has everthing you will need for installing a Dynon or Garmin AOA pitot and ADAHRS.
http://www.safeair1.com/averytools/pitotstaticplumbingkit.php
http://www.safeair1.com/averytools/pitotstaticplumbingkit.php
An update on the discussion. I installed the Gretz mast and it is looking great. I decided to get the Dynon heated pitot; same cost as the Garmin but the wiring is a tad simpler. The Garmin has 4 wires from the controller to ships power. The reason is that each pair is connected in series for a 28V system and in parallel for a 14V system. The Dynon only has two wires since it is only rated for the 14V but it is simpler to connect/splice as a result. Not much of a difference but there it is.
Now I'm looking at where to mount the controller. I'd like to put it on the rib with some nutplates and cap screws so that it is easier to pull with a ratchet than with a phillips.
i'm planning to solder splice the 14V supply and run it via the root to the panel without a disconnect, leaving a service loop for removal slack later. The ground I'm just going to take to the rib using the tooling hole the way it is done for the lights ouboard.
I haven't bought the kit from SafeAir1, but I probably should. It will save me hassle and time for a small amount of unneeded parts. I wish I had bought it before I installed the static line in the tail and then I would have their cool static ports. As it is I've got the little pop rivets Vans gave us.
Now I'm looking at where to mount the controller. I'd like to put it on the rib with some nutplates and cap screws so that it is easier to pull with a ratchet than with a phillips.
i'm planning to solder splice the 14V supply and run it via the root to the panel without a disconnect, leaving a service loop for removal slack later. The ground I'm just going to take to the rib using the tooling hole the way it is done for the lights ouboard.
I haven't bought the kit from SafeAir1, but I probably should. It will save me hassle and time for a small amount of unneeded parts. I wish I had bought it before I installed the static line in the tail and then I would have their cool static ports. As it is I've got the little pop rivets Vans gave us.
Mounted the Dynon pitot heat controller on an access panel today. The controller base is the same thickness as the spar web; it was countersunk to take the #6 screws that hold the access panel on. I figured the controller box would take a countersink the same way. So I positioned the controller where I wanted on the access panel and match-drilled #27 holes in the access panel. Then after debur I dimpled the access panel and then c/s the pitot heat controller base. Worked like a charm and looks good too.
I tried a lot of different ways to find a good mounting location for the controller on the wing ribs and just couldn't come up with a good solution. I like the way it came out on the access plate.
I tried a lot of different ways to find a good mounting location for the controller on the wing ribs and just couldn't come up with a good solution. I like the way it came out on the access plate.
I'm pretty sure if I had a damaged wire I'd just have to run a new one.... Good thing is that the 22579/16 wire we use is much more hardy than the connectors on the ends; which can be spliced easily. I think the lacing keeps the wires from chafing as much as they would loose. But I suppose every benefit has a trade-off and you hit the nail on the head.
Shucks, after 18 months on the project this is the first time my girlfriend said she was impressed! I might get her in the finished project if I keep it this neat.
Shucks, after 18 months on the project this is the first time my girlfriend said she was impressed! I might get her in the finished project if I keep it this neat.
