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Old 08-13-2019, 01:58 PM
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HAL Pilot HAL Pilot is offline
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Las Vegas NV
Posts: 118
Default Working with dimpled holes

Aloha All

So after finishing the Emp on my RV14 I have come to the conclusion that when dimpling holes the finished opening on the new dimple ends up being big enough that it is easier for the rivet to get cocked of in the riveting process and end up bent. Especially on curved surfaces. The rivet tends to be quite loose in the hole and also shorter, see my other thread:

I have found that if I take my rivet squeezer and using my smallest yoke since there is less play in it. I per-squeeze the next longer rivet so that it fattens up. I adjust the amount of squeeze to make the new rivet nice and snug. This especially helps if I am replacing a bad rivet as the holes tend to get a hair bigger in the riveting process and its easier to have multiple bad rivets in the same hole once you have drilled out the first bad one, if you do not make the next rivet snug. Ask me how I know ;-)

Yes I know oops rivets help but that's on rivets that have been removed. This is more to preclude the need for removal. but also works for rivets that have been removed and the hole is still nice and round and not too big.

So here's an off the wall question. If I pre-squeeze the rivet so that the shank is now a bit fatter than a standard size should the new formed head be a bit wider and fatter as the 1.5d x .5d formula would be starting from a fatter shank?

Is this way to fickle on size measurements?

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