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Rudder trailing edge

W

Wyzepilot

Active Member
I'm getting ready to rivet the rudder together. I plan on using the double sided tape method and clekoing the trailing edge to an angle iron attached to my workbench. Does anyone have any other tips or some possible pit falls that I should be aware of before I begin. Thanks guys!!

Dave
 
Rudder

I did the same thing back in 04. Read all the horrible stories, very worried. Followed directions, came out very nice. Been flying since 09. No problems. I used epoxy instead of PRC, still looks good.
 
I can't remember the details but I do remember using thick aluminum angle purchased at Home Depot to cleco against. Turned out very nice and straight.
 
I used the two sided tape on the rudder and it worked out well and without the mess of pro seal. When you first apply the tape, make sure you rub on the non stick paper side well to help the adhesion side hold better. When you remove the strip, do it very slowly and make sure the glue film is not pealing off with the strip. Once you apply the skin to the other side, cleco the trailing edges together, then press on the skins against the adhesion material to ensure a good adhesion. When the paper strip is remove from this two sided tape, only a very thin layer of Adhesion material remains. Rivet per the instructions.
 
Thanks for the advice. I'm just priming all of my parts this weekend and plan on having the rudder completed by the end of the week. That's the "plan" anyway. I'll report back. Cheers!

Dave
 
So I finally had some time to work on the rudder. Everything went smoothly until had to rivet the last hole on the bottom rib flange. The plans say to use CCR264ss3-2 but its too long. I followed the instructions and squeezed it to make room but the shop end is still too long and no matter what I do it bottoms out on the rivet on the opposite side. I forced it to sit flush and set it hoping that it would make room but it bottomed out on the tail of the opposite rivet and bulged out. I drilled it out and tried again, no luck. I figure if first you don't succeed try again. At that point if you don't succeed ask the the guys on VAF. Anyone come up with a solution for this or am i doing something wrong:confused: Thanks!!
Dave
 
Wyzepilot said:
So I finally had some time to work on the rudder. Everything went smoothly until had to rivet the last hole on the bottom rib flange. The plans say to use CCR264ss3-2 but its too long. I followed the instructions and squeezed it to make room but the shop end is still too long and no matter what I do it bottoms out on the rivet on the opposite side. I forced it to sit flush and set it hoping that it would make room but it bottomed out on the tail of the opposite rivet and bulged out. I drilled it out and tried again, no luck. I figure if first you don't succeed try again. At that point if you don't succeed ask the the guys on VAF. Anyone come up with a solution for this or am i doing something wrong:confused: Thanks!!
Dave
Click to expand...

I'd love to hear solutions to this as well..... I am having the same issue- no way to set the 2nd rivet flush that I can figure out....
 
Are you trying to use that blind rivet on both sides or just one? I squeezed a solid rivet on the right side then used the blind rivet on the left side and did not have any issues...
 
I do have a solid rived squeezed on the opposite side (challenging but doable). I tried again to set the pop rivet. I was able to set it but the rivet tails are touching and the head of the pop rivet doesn't sit as flush as I would like. I called Vans and he said that it is a tight fight and that I should just leave it as is. Maybe the trick is to slightly over squeeze the solid rivet to make room? I am going to take Van's advice and just move on. It doesn't look too bad and the tech at Vans said that the rudder would be strong enough even if that rivet was missing.

Dave
 
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