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Matco or Cleveland brake pads?

AndyRV7

AndyRV7

Well Known Member
I bought a brake pad kit from Vans (the only one listed for a non-10). I have Cleveland wheel and brakes but I received Matco parts??? Are they the same brake pads or do I need to order a different set?

Also, I am planning to purchase a brake pad rivet tool. Is this what everyone uses to do the job? Does anyone know the rivet size? I tired to look up the rivets listed in the kit but the part numbers were not recognized. Apparently, the tools come with different size rivet capacity from what I can tell anyway.

Thanks. Andy

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Mel said:
Rivets come with new brake pads.
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I know, but I need to know what size they are so I can match them to the appropriate die set that comes with the tool. The rivets in this reline kit are listed as a part number but the die sets that come with the rivet tools are listed as fractions of an inch if I remember correctly.
 
I believe from some experience that the Cleveland pads are 66-106 and use -4 rivets for all four pads. The matco system (RV 12) uses the same 66-106 pads but use -6 rivets for 2 of the pads. I see that there are 13 -4 rivets so you should be good. It looks like Vans just made the kit more universal. Larry
 
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Pad rivet removal

Old thread, but need some advice. I'm finishing my first condition inspection--and have been a bit hard on brakes. I received a pad replacement kit from Van's and also bot a Rapco rivet tool. The Matco doc says to use a #25 drill to remove the old rivets. The Rapco doc does not mention drilling out the rivet--just punch it out using their tool. I don't want to mess up my old backing plates, so I thought I better check with the group to see what is the recommended method. Thanks in advance.
Steve
 
If you do your own re-lining be sure to acquire the type of lining rivet setting tool that uses a screw for setting the rivets -- do not use the type of riveter that requires a hammer. As I recall, Cleaveland Tool also offers a set of brake rivet dies specifically for use in your rivet squeezer.

ps -- MATCO offers a service that provides new linings factory installed on backing plates -- I keep a spare set to facilitate quick replacement of linings.
 
David, thanks for the reply. I do have the threaded screw type tool for setting the rivets. My question still remains--do I drill out the old rivets with #25 drill per Matco instructions or use the Rapco tool to remove the old ones.
Steve
 
skyking902001 said:
David, thanks for the reply. I do have the threaded screw type tool for setting the rivets. My question still remains--do I drill out the old rivets with #25 drill per Matco instructions or use the Rapco tool to remove the old ones.
Steve
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Use the Rapco tool to push the old rivets out. If you drill the rivets, the holes in the backing plate will eventually elongate and you will need to replace the plates.

~Marc
 
You can preserve the backing plate by using a slightly smaller drill and stopping early, then drive out the remaining bit of rivet with a punch.
 
Thanks to all for the responses. I did use the Rapco tool to push out the old rivets and then to set the new ones. Took about 45 minutes to remove the old disk pads and install the new ones.
Clear Skies!

Steve
 
Installation brake pads - riveting tool

DHeal said:
If you do your own re-lining be sure to acquire the type of lining rivet setting tool that uses a screw for setting the rivets -- do not use the type of riveter that requires a hammer.

Why not?
Next question please. How tight does the rivets need to be? Just enough to keep the pad from any movement?
I can imagine cracking the pad, if the rivets are too tight.
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GOFT said:
Why not?
Next question please. How tight does the rivets need to be? Just enough to keep the pad from any movement?
I can imagine cracking the pad, if the rivets are too tight.
Click to expand...

Why not? Brake pads are not designed to withstand impact. They can and will crack from impact. Just buy the brake rivet tool or borrow one from a fellow builder/pilot/owner.

The rivets are some form of brass or brass alloy. They are reasonably soft. In fact they have a tendency to split, especially if over-driven. You want them tight but not a death grip; the pad shouldn't move on the backer.

To reduce the cracking/splitting of rivets, wipe the face of the rivet tool with grease, not a lot. Breaking the friction between the tool and the shop end of the rivet allows the operator better control over the riveting process and, ultimately, over the amount of pressure applied to the rivet.

Just as a guideline, it should take maybe 10 minutes to install new pads once the backers are lying on the workbench. It really isn't a big job. In fact 10 minutes might be a bit on the high side.
 
A two decades ago (more than 20-years ago) I purchased a set of hand rivet squeezer dies from the now out of business Avery Tool that would set the brake rivets. Not many places still sell them now. Avery had high quality dies.

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Hammer det

GOFT said:
DHeal said:
If you do your own re-lining be sure to acquire the type of lining rivet setting tool that uses a screw for setting the rivets -- do not use the type of riveter that requires a hammer.

Why not?
Next question please. How tight does the rivets need to be? Just enough to keep the pad from any movement?
I can imagine cracking the pad, if the rivets are too tight.
Click to expand...

I have been using the hammer set for years with no issues. It just takes finesse. If you can set rivets with a 2x and a bar you can set a brake rivet with a hammer. The key is light taps until you feel the set. Not a sledge hammer blow.
Click to expand...
 
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