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  #11  
Old 07-15-2018, 09:04 AM
TS Flightlines TS Flightlines is offline
 
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Being able to see the fuselage first hand is a big help. Sometimes, even having the plans you can get a good perspective of whats around the area where you are working.

Tom
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Tom Swearengen, TS Flightlines LLC
Teflon Hose Assemblies for Experimentals
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RV7 Tail Kit Completed, Fuse started-Pay as I go Plan
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  #12  
Old 07-15-2018, 07:16 PM
rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hubbard Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcboon View Post
Thanks for the information and advise on the tubing. I like to bend and flare the tubes myself, and understand that I have basically two options. Either clut the sleeve, or make the bend half an inch lower/further from the tank. So that you can put the sleeve on the bent tube and then still flare it.

Do you know if there is an important reason from a space or perhaps fuel flow perspective against the idea of a bend half an inch lower?
There are other options

The bend is only 45 deg if I recall correctly.
There is a huge difference between bending a tube 45 deg and bending it 90 Deg. A 45 degree bend can be done by hand in a relatively tight radius without causing it to reduce in cross section (it actually will very slightly but it grows in the opposite direction so the overall cross section area doesn't change). More than 45 degrees at this tight of a radius does require use of a tool.

Instead of shorting the sleeve (not something I ever recommend), use the parts unmodified. Temporarily install an AN fitting on the end of the flared line ( a straight bulkhead fitting works best for this). The purpose of the fitting is to temporarily add length to provide leverage for bending by hand.
As mentioned, when only bending 45 deg., this will work fine.

Give it a try with a small piece of scrap tubing. You may be surprised.
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  #13  
Old 07-15-2018, 07:24 PM
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rongawer rongawer is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Brentwood, CA
Posts: 339
Default Hand bending

I highly recommend these - a low cost, easy to use tool set to have the tool bin:

General Tools S106 Tubing Bender Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004T827..._uu-sBbM08W6HE

It makes bending tube in tight places and by had an easy task without any marring and ending up with a nice, round tube. Slide one inside the tube, another over the outside of the tube, grip with hand and bend.
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  #14  
Old 07-15-2018, 07:26 PM
rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rongawer View Post
I highly recommend these - a low cost, easy to use tool set to have the tool bin:

General Tools S106 Tubing Bender Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004T827..._uu-sBbM08W6HE

It makes bending tube in tight places and by had an easy task without any marring and ending up with a nice, round tube. Slide one inside the tube, another over the outside of the tube, grip with hand and bend.
That is another option, but I have had nothing but bad experiences trying to use them, but I might just be that I don't know what I am doing.........
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  #15  
Old 07-15-2018, 07:38 PM
David Paule David Paule is online now
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Boulder, CO
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Ditto with those. I gave up on them after having some tube become permanently trapped inside them.

In my opinion, they're worse than worthless - they steal tube from me.

Dave
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  #16  
Old 07-15-2018, 07:58 PM
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rongawer rongawer is offline
 
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Interesting feedback. Personally, I’ve been pretty successful with them. I recently formed just about every line on my RV-12 with them that needed to be done in place. I do recommend lubricating the inside of the outer tool and outside of the inner tool with tool oil before use; maybe that’s the difference. I’ve used them on 3003 and 5052 without issue. Definitely not good for harder lines, such as stainless.
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  #17  
Old 07-15-2018, 09:18 PM
skydiverlv skydiverlv is offline
 
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Location: kansas
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Back in my po' boy days, we used to fill the tubes with mason sand, cap the ends and bend free hand. After bends and final flare, a good flush with liquid, a little air, and you were in business.
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  #18  
Old 07-16-2018, 01:07 PM
jcboon jcboon is offline
 
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Scott, that sounds good and I will give it a try. Thanks!
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  #19  
Old 07-16-2018, 10:07 PM
RFSchaller RFSchaller is offline
 
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Location: Phoenix, AZ
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I used a bending tool I got at the OSH Flymarket that prevents ovalization. It has a a series of grooves for each tube OD and a lever that when pulled down forces the tube around the hub trapped between the grooves that prevent ovalization. I think it cost $10 and works like a champ. Bending tubing was a non-issue with it.
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  #20  
Old 07-17-2018, 10:54 PM
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vernon smith vernon smith is offline
 
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Location: Naples FL
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Sometimes optimal weight and traditional aircraft mandates can be sacrificed on the alter of practicality and maintainability. Flexible Teflon hose within braided stainless shielding is way more impact and wear resistant than the run of the mill soft aluminum tubing in your kit. The hose ends are heavier but easier to deal with than bending and flaring tools regardless of make and quality.

All this can be purchased from any of the aircraft suppliers or any of the race car suppliers (at half the cost) that carry the Aeroquip line, which most of them do. Below is a link to an example;

http://aeroquipperformance.com/looku...11&category=42

I'm sure others, some with vested interests will disagree, but beyond weight and expense the Teflon SS braided hose and end fittings are superior on almost all respects to bent aluminum tubing. Look in your firewall forward kit and see how much unbent aluminum tubing is included.

There are many others that supply the same items and quality as Aeroquip and there is an active forum member that markets a complete line of exactly what I'm describing. I'm sure he will be glad to make you any Teflon flexible line you might want for a reasonable price.
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