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  #1  
Old 02-12-2017, 06:12 PM
BillL BillL is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central IL
Posts: 4,520
Default Tip-up Latch Lug Question

I have been tweaking various dimensions ( seemingly endless) on my tip up to get it to fit, and am about ready to finalize the latch lugs.

Has anyone successfully slotted the holes in the WD-622 steel lugs to allow some minor adjustments??

I "think" that the contact forces and friction are plenty to prevent slippage, but some real world data would be much better.

One more question - has anyone used some stiff rubber spacers between the longeron and the rail (near the latch) to hold the canopy against the latch forces?

Thanks - -
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  #2  
Old 02-13-2017, 12:38 PM
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TCONROY TCONROY is offline
 
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Location: Wilsonville, OR
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I would also be interested to hear if anyone has had success with slotted holes on the lugs. I have replaced my lugs once due to fitment issues after changing the weather stripping along the sides and also under the rear frame.
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  #3  
Old 02-14-2017, 08:51 AM
Rupester Rupester is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Mahomet, Illinois
Posts: 2,195
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillL View Post
I have been tweaking various dimensions ( seemingly endless) on my tip up to get it to fit, and am about ready to finalize the latch lugs ...
One more question - has anyone used some stiff rubber spacers between the longeron and the rail (near the latch) to hold the canopy against the latch forces?

Thanks - -
Not sure if this is what you're aiming at, Bill, but I added weatherstripping (McMaster & Carr) to the bottom rails of the canopy on both sides. It works beautifully, and (I think) serves the function you ask about. The canopy closes nice and snug, it's water and wind-tight, and the latch pulls just enough to crush the rubber tube of the weatherstrip. It gives the canopy a nice "soft landing" on closing.
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  #4  
Old 02-14-2017, 09:58 AM
RV Jerry RV Jerry is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Chino, CA
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I have always slotted the latch weldments with no problems, makes final adjustment a lot easier ,problably have done this on 20 canopies
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  #5  
Old 02-14-2017, 10:12 AM
BillL BillL is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rupester View Post
Not sure if this is what you're aiming at, Bill, but I added weatherstripping (McMaster & Carr) to the bottom rails of the canopy on both sides. It works beautifully, and (I think) serves the function you ask about. The canopy closes nice and snug, it's water and wind-tight, and the latch pulls just enough to crush the rubber tube of the weatherstrip. It gives the canopy a nice "soft landing" on closing.
Thanks, Terry, I am going to have to lift the left side .040 to make the canopy meet squarely. So, I was thinking about a stiffer bumper. I made a very stiff one and it works nicely. Your experience helps, and it may not be needed as I do not have that weatherstrip in place yet. I was trying to fit the lugs first.

When further along and working on the weatherstrip, I will get back to you with some pictures before final seal selection.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RV Jerry View Post
I have always slotted the latch weldments with no problems, makes final adjustment a lot easier ,problably have done this on 20 canopies
Good to hear Jerry. This is a very practical approach, but wondered if they would slip loose. I did some calculations an it said no, but the assumptions could make it very close. Real world data like yours seals the deal. Thanks for sharing your experience.

Slots it is!!

20 tip-ups - you must have some secrets to that!!
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  #6  
Old 02-14-2017, 04:38 PM
Rupester Rupester is offline
 
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Location: Mahomet, Illinois
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Default Aside:

Bill .... I sent you a PM ....
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  #7  
Old 02-14-2017, 05:58 PM
johnfurey johnfurey is offline
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 230
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I slotted mine then put I tiny drift pin in each one for added assurance
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  #8  
Old 11-06-2018, 04:08 PM
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sglynn sglynn is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Anacortes, WA
Posts: 665
Default tip up latch finger slots

I am finally putting the tip up canopy on my RV-7A in prep for flying. The forward top skin is now riveted over the electrical bay. And so this is the first time the canopy has been put on with that securely riveted. Until now it has just been clecoed. And guess what. Canopy doesn't fit very well.

It doesn't latch fully and so I am wondering how to extend the latch fingers. I guess I will slot the holes as others have described on this post. Other ideas welcome. I was thinking of filing the latch itself, but that might screw up how it locks in place.
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  #9  
Old 11-06-2018, 05:34 PM
BillL BillL is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sglynn View Post
I am finally putting the tip up canopy on my RV-7A in prep for flying. The forward top skin is now riveted over the electrical bay. And so this is the first time the canopy has been put on with that securely riveted. Until now it has just been clecoed. And guess what. Canopy doesn't fit very well.

It doesn't latch fully and so I am wondering how to extend the latch fingers. I guess I will slot the holes as others have described on this post. Other ideas welcome. I was thinking of filing the latch itself, but that might screw up how it locks in place.
I think the phase of the moon affects canopy dimensions!! Not seriously, but mine changed every time anything related was riveted. Once it was all square and even it has not changed a bit in phase I. One exception - plexiglass to plexiglas clearance changes quite a bit with hot temps. Too close and it will stick.

I have not had any issue with the slots. I allowed the canopy to nestle down on the roll over structure, adjusted the local height with some nylon washers then put some hard rubber stops on the canopy rail to keep the latch from pulling against the plexiglas. Lucky I did as the garage door slammed it shut on day and there was no damage. (stupid story for later) I had some trouble with the seals. My rails are close and finally used the standard Vans teardrop seal. The hardware seals added so much force to compress them the latch would not go home.

I also had to bend one latch so it's hook would bottom at the same time as the opposite side.

One last comment on the slots. The parts are not that expensive. You could always get a new set and transfer the proper hole locations for the final position. You may need that skill for a heavy wing later.
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