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  #1  
Old 10-21-2018, 07:37 AM
Pman Pman is offline
 
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Location: Geneva, Illinois
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Default Sika Primer Question

Hi All,

Has anyone used Sika 209-D Primer on "bare metal"?

Originally I thought I would simply prime over the scuffed power coat canopy frame. However, after purchasing the Sika 209-D Primer, I have since decided to remove the powder coating off my RV8 canopy frame.

I'm wondering if I can expect good results with Sika 209-D Primer on my bare metal canopy frame or should I order the Sika 206 G&P Primer to use on the metal frame?

Thanks,

Mike Perillo

Last edited by Pman : 10-21-2018 at 08:34 AM.
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  #2  
Old 10-23-2018, 06:55 PM
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Carlos151 Carlos151 is offline
 
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Location: Lebanon, TN
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Used it on the bare metal (aluminum) on the bottom edge of the windscreen as well as the scuffed up roll bar. Makes for a nice bead on the inside. After that I layed up the fiberglass transition with Hysol instead of West System epoxy per tech counselor advice. Hysol sticks great to aluminum and plexi. Made some test samples and literally had to destroy them and they still did not come apart.
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  #3  
Old 10-23-2018, 07:06 PM
Mark33 Mark33 is offline
 
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Location: Baton Rouge, La.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carlos151 View Post
...After that I layed up the fiberglass transition with Hysol instead of West System epoxy per tech counselor advice. Hysol sticks great to aluminum and plexi. Made some test samples and literally had to destroy them and they still did not come apart.
Karl, can you give a little more insight on the Hysol and possibly a link to the product?

Thanks,
Mark
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  #4  
Old 10-23-2018, 08:27 PM
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Carlos151 Carlos151 is offline
 
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Hysol is a bit harder to work with than West epoxy simply because itís not as fluid. I soaked and pressed the layups between plastic strips as described on the EAA video (https://video.eaa.org/detail/video/1...=2&q=Composite) to make sure it went all the way through the fiberglass cloth. The layups come out a bit rougher but you can then fill in with West epoxy and micro balloons to smooth it out since itís just cosmetic at that point. I would consider the Hysol layups to be structural when it cures. Itís simply that strong. Like I mentioned before, I layed up some test strips of plexiglass on scrap aluminum and when pulling them apart the aluminum literally tears before the plexiglass separates.
Hysol is available at Aircraft Spruce (https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catal...?clickkey=9598)
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  #5  
Old 10-24-2018, 05:15 AM
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mike newall mike newall is offline
 
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Used the 209 on both of our canopy installs both on bare metal and powder coat - no issues.

No idea why you would want to or how you removed the powder coating - it will stick just as hard as anything else to the metal.
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  #6  
Old 10-24-2018, 10:16 AM
Pman Pman is offline
 
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Location: Geneva, Illinois
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike newall View Post
Used the 209 on both of our canopy installs both on bare metal and powder coat - no issues.

No idea why you would want to or how you removed the powder coating - it will stick just as hard as anything else to the metal.

Thanks for the reply’s.

Since my original post I have spoken to the Tech Rep for Sika. The Sika Tech Rep informed me, the 206 G+P primer should be used on bare mental substrates, and the 209 D primer on the plexiglass and panted surfaces (such as scuffed powder coated substrates).

Granted, gluing to the powder coating would likely be adequate. However, if one desires a direct metal bond, removal of the powder coating is simply accomplished by using a Roll-Lock Disc.
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