Fitting engine baffling

Need to replace engine baffling on RV-3 O-320 powered. This is N93JP built by John Palmeri and first flew in 1981. I am probably the 4th owner. Anyway CHT is running over 400, baffling is pretty bad, some of it looks original. Lots of small holes that need to be plugged up with RTV. I ordered the silicone baffling from McFarlane and a tube of RTV.

Is there a secret to getting a good fit, getting the CHT down a bit?

Stan - give me a call when you're back in the valley. I can give you some tips and pointers on that. Ted

I will. Jean Marie is helping me. Sold the Citabria, have a hangar pending in Bishop.

Build and install bypass ducts for #2 and 3, rework (bend/tweak) the intercylinder baffles so they actually fit, then seal them with speed tape and RTV, seal EVERY gap in the baffles with speed tape/RTV, try get your flex baffle seals to go down in one piece without wrinkles, and make sure your inlets actually seal. It will cool fine if you do this.

What do you have for ignition?

Toobuilder said:

Build and install bypass ducts for #2 and 3....

Click to expand...

This one step helped my cooling enormously, getting air past where the cylinder fins are essentially zero depth. Not sure why Van's doesn't offer baffle kits that already incorporate bypass ducts...so important for those of us who routinely operate in 100-degree ambient temps. Maybe overkill for Minnesota RVers?

Lots of good examples of fabricating the ducts in the Engine Cooling sticky in the Traditional Aircraft Engines subforum.

Toobuilder said:

Build and install bypass ducts for #2 and 3, rework (bend/tweak) the intercylinder baffles so they actually fit, then seal them with speed tape and RTV, seal EVERY gap in the baffles with speed tape/RTV, try get your flex baffle seals to go down in one piece without wrinkles, and make sure your inlets actually seal. It will cool fine if you do this.

What do you have for ignition?

Click to expand...

Bendix mags.