Oil Restrictor Fitting Install

This afternoon I tried to install my VA-128 45 degree fitting into the port on my Titan IOX-370. I think this is very similar to the standard IO-360 location.

The first problem I had was removing the plug which didn't seem to want to budge. I remembered reading here on VAF that tapping the wrench helps loosen stuck bolts and etc. That seemed to do the trick. At one point I was getting a little worried that I was going to strip out the plug, but I switched to a tighter fitting wrench and patiently tapped away. Finally it moved a little and it broke loose. Thanks for that previous guidance. It saved the day.

I then moved on to trying to install the 45 degree restrictor fitting for my oil pressure. I purchased a small crescent style wrench for this since the fitting seems to be slightly larger than 7/16" across the body. However even my small 4" crescent wouldn't fit enough to allow me to rotate the fitting completely around as required. I'm wondering what is the correct tool to use to do this installation? I took a measurement across the body of the fitting and is 0.455" so its about 0.018" larger than a 7/16" wrench. How have people been able to do this without damaging the fitting?

One additional detail: I have a PMAG installed directly below the oil pressure port.

Fittings

Sometimes you can put a B nut on a fitting, snug it down, then put a box wrench on the B nut and rotate it like that. Additional benefit is fitting threads are protected. You might have to remove the P mag or whatever else to get some working room.

Don Broussard
RV9 Rebuild in Progress
57 Pacer

Do you have a set of metric wrenches, try 12mm wrench.

I do have metric wrenches, but I think 12mm is going to be too big. It will probably mangle the fitting.

I was wondering though if I could somehow modify a 7/16" wrench to make it a little wider. I'm not sure if the wrench steel is too hard to do this with or not.

Tubing wrench

Never understood why but fittings always seem to be a hair off. I use a tubing wrench. Not on that part cuz I'm not there yet. Just an idea. Tubing wrench has one extra flat and a smaller opening.

rapid_ascent said:

I do have metric wrenches, but I think 12mm is going to be too big. It will probably mangle the fitting.

I was wondering though if I could somehow modify a 7/16" wrench to make it a little wider. I'm not sure if the wrench steel is too hard to do this with or not.

Click to expand...

Maybe trying 11 but a 12MM should be just a few tho bigger. You can certainly shave off a bit from a 7/16 wrench also to fit it. Please remember to put some lube on the thread which will help turning it as well as sealing it.

On this fitting you need to think out of the box. Assuming the engine is installed, the first concern is to not cross thread the fitting and engine threads. There is limited room to "swing" wrenches as you do on other fittings elsewhere on the engine. Use a die grinder to get the required clearance to make the wrench fit the fitting snugly. This wrench will only work with the 45 degree facing you and then the 45 facing away from you. Limited "swings" here. Maybe an AN cap will help but you will need clearance for the fitting and now the cap may run into interference. You may use a crows foot on a wobble extension. Use anything to keep the fitting rotating until the correct position for the hose. Check the installed hose for clearance because now is when you can still be able to rotate the hose and fitting.

The engine isn?t installed yet. It?s still bolted to the pallet so I have good access to the rear of the engine. I?m trying to do some engine prep so that it?s ready to mount. Fuel pump fittings are next on the list.

How do these steamingly simple things have a way of becoming another project?

I?ve got a couple of things to try.

Well the first step seems to have worked.

This morning I went to HD aircraft supply and bought a $3.50 Husky 7/16" wrench. A few minutes with a mill file and now I have a wrench for the body of the fitting. Next to see if the outside of the wrench needs to be ground down.

Here's what we did

Buy an AN3 steel fitting. Press in a standard -3 rivet. Then drill a #60 hole in the rivet. Still not easy, but it does give you more room to work.
Ron

I have a box full of used wrenches I get at garage sales, usually can buy a full set for $5. I use these for those tight areas & customize them for the job with bends, twists, ground off jaws and handles as needed. After they are used, I throw them back in the box for the next time....

patterson said:

Buy an AN3 steel fitting. Press in a standard -3 rivet. Then drill a #60 hole in the rivet. Still not easy, but it does give you more room to work.
Ron

Click to expand...

I needed to make one as well. I used acid flux solder inside the steel fitting via a propane torch. Then drill out the desired orrifice. The solder is bonded, so no risk of coming out and fairly easy to make.

Larry

I was able to get the fitting installed during my "work from home" today.

I did have to grind the outside edge of the wrench to allow me to get the full rotation of the fitting. Reaching in from the top requires that the outer bump on the wrench be ground away some otherwise you can't reach the wrench in to complete the rotation.

I think removing the PMAG or at least the upper clip would probably help but I really wanted to stay away from that.

I got done helping a friends a few months ago and We finally gave up and removed the P mag. Retiming the mag is not near as hard as you would think and takes less time then jacking around with the fitting.