Installing (used) Dynon EMS 120

RV-6A --- this will get rid of (8) existing round gauges and give me room for future upgrades.

Tachometer --- buy tach transducer (which one) or pick up Bendix "P" leads from key switch and install 30kohm resistors?

Fuel and oil press senders -- just go ahead and buy the Kavlico?

"A", "B", or "C" hook up on ammeter shunt -- ?


Thanks folks, more questions later?

Ron

Mine is wired so the shunt only shows current flowing out of the battery.
I would prefer to see current flow both directions. You might consider that option when you wire it.
I have my CHT programmed to go Yellow when 400 deg. F. I see this on cyl. 3 on climb out now. It reminds me to get the nose down and cool it more.
The data downloads are slow... but record a huge block of inflight data.
Savy Analysis will let you graph it for free on their site.

1 - I would wire the tach to the P-leads via these 33K resistor. At $1.09 each you can't go wrong. Or if you really want lower cost these are $1.49 for a pack of 5.

2 - Use your existing sensors for now. You can always upgrade later.

3 - I would use method "A" for the Ammeter (SkyView Installation Manual Pg 7-49) and configure your EMS to show the current entering/exiting the battery. Later on you can add a Hall Effect sensor if you want to monitor aircraft load.

This is how I have my SkyView EMS hooked up and love it. My 2 cents.

How about the GRT "Hall Effect"

sensor for the amps? --- seems like a more flexible solution and apparently works well with the Dynon?

RONSIM said:

sensor for the amps? --- seems like a more flexible solution and apparently works well with the Dynon?

Click to expand...

Yes it does but since you already have the shunt, use it to monitor the current entering/exiting the battery and use the sensor for monitoring the aircraft load. If you want to know how much current the alternator is generating at any moment, just add the two numbers.

flightlogic said:

Mine is wired so the shunt only shows current flowing out of the battery.
I would prefer to see current flow both directions. You might consider that option when you wire it.

Click to expand...

If you are wired to show the current flowing out of the battery (position "A") then you can show current flowing into the battery. The only difference is the polarity of the signal on EMS pins 24/25.

Now, you do have to set up your sensor file to enable it to display both positive and negative values otherwise it only shows the positive value. Go to SETUP MENU > EMS SETUP > SENSOR SETUP, find the ammeter sensor file then use the example shown on Pg 7-65 of the SkyView Installation Guide for voltage as a starting point. Make the Maximum Graphical Display +60 and the Minimum Graphical Display -60 or whatever maximum current value your alternator can generate. A positive value should be the current flowing into the battery while negative value should be current flowing out of the battery. Then set your ranges to show whatever color(s) you like on your display.

If after doing this your display shows a negative current when the battery is charging then just flip the little shunt wires that connect to EMS pins 24/25.

Great info

Thanks, guys --- I have the access panels nearly finished and about ready to start on the EMS install --- I did go ahead and order the newer pressure sensors (fuel and oil) and the GRT Hall effect sensor --- I may use both the shunt and the Hall effect so that I have "maximum" information available. I will wire the -10A and the 120 together so that I can transfer screens back and forth.

Ron

Hi Ron.

Just wondering how the secondhand Dynon has worked out.
Just got a used EMS 120 less sensors etc myself for my RV-6 and considering how best to go about fitting it.
I'm wondering whether to buy all new sensors and rip out / start again, or make use of some of the existing (Vans gauges senders) installation.

Rob

Love it!

Rob ---- I completed my used EMS 120 installation and have been flying for several hours ------ I would certainly do it again! Like I said, earlier, I replaced (8) different displays on my panel.

I decided to just use my existing sensors -- fuel level, fuel flow, EGT, CHT. I did buy the newer Kavlico oil and fuel pressure sensors. I also purchased new harness from Dynon because the used harness was too short for my application. Instead of using a shunt for the ammeter reading, I used the GRT hall effect. That is the only issue in that my amp readings jump around quite a bit, but I have gotten use to it.

I have my 120 synced to my D10A and can transfer the displays from one to the other.

I did make use of Dynon's user forums for questions and answers, but by following Dynon's install manual, carefully, everything went well.

Good luck on your install -- you will enjoy the 120.

Send me an email and I will reply with some pics -- [email protected]