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splicing fat (awg 8) wire

KayS

Well Known Member
Hello All,
i had a brain fart when running the lead wire from the alternator to the 60A circuit breaker. Now it's much to short. Is there any approbiate way to splice this AWG8 or do I have to order a new wire?

Thanks, Kay
 
Hello All,
i had a brain fart when running the lead wire from the alternator to the 60A circuit breaker. Now it's much to short. Is there any approbiate way to splice this AWG8 or do I have to order a new wire?

Thanks, Kay
Run a new cable.

#8 (or better yet #6 for the typical 60 amp alternator application) US made welding cable is inexpensive and very durable - look at Amazon.

Note - consider a 70amp breaker for the standard 60 amp alternator output. It will help prevent nuisance trips.

Carl
 
Or better yet, a $3.00 12 ga fusible link on the bus end, instead of tht $50 CB that will never do anything, until the contacts fail open. :)

You can purchase 8ga butt splices, if you really need to stretch the wire, but I agree that welding cable is cheap and effective.
 
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Or better yet, a $3.00 12 ga fusible link on the bus end, instead of tht $50 CB that will never do anything, until the contacts fail open. :)
SNIP

Perhaps as an experiment try running enough current through a piece of #12 wire and watch it burn up - then decide if that is something you want under your cowl or anywhere else.

Use a breaker or a real fuse.
Carl
 
Perhaps as an experiment try running enough current through a piece of #12 wire and watch it burn up - then decide if that is something you want under your cowl or anywhere else.

Use a breaker or a real fuse.
Carl

I believe that purpose built fusible link wire has a very thick insulation to keep all that drama inside, though I can't speak to how effectively it manages that task.

Larry
 
They make splice kits. They are simply a machine barrel with set screws and a piece of heat shrink tubing.
 
You could splice the cable using the above mentioned butt-splice, and with the right precautions this is OK from a structural/electrical standpoint. But it isn't really good practice unless you are really out of options. In an RV, the cable runs are so short and acccessable that you should just replace the cable.
 
Welding cable

I thought welding cable had a low duty cycle rating, like 25% or so? If there is a duty cycle rating, does that mean we need a bidder size for RVs use?
 
Nope. It's just extremely fine stranded copper wire, with the same ga measurements as any other wire.

Many *welders* have duty cycle limits, but not wire.
 
I agree with Carl. Just purchase a new cable.

For the money we have in our aircraft, don't compromise to safe a couple bucks.
 
For the money we have in our aircraft, don't compromise to safe a couple bucks.

So very well said. Save a few dollars on a cable but risk tens (or hundreds) of thousands of dollars on your airplane and possibly your life.

"Penny wise and pound foolish!" - Benjamin Franklin

:eek:
 
While I don?t disagree with replacing the cable, a quality splice kit will actually cost as much, or more, than a new cable, so there goes that theory....
.....everybody sure likes to ?pile on? in these forums.... risk an airplane with a spliced cable, really guys.... hope you don?t have a simple alternator failure or youre doomed!

The OP asked if there was a suitable way to splice the cable. There is. Enough of that.

That said, if it was me, I would replace the cable, but that?s not what the OP asked.....
 
I also in the replace camp but you could crimp a couple #10 ring terminals on the wire ends and connect the two with a screw/washer/nut and protect as needed from chafing.
 
My philosophy all along has been to minimize things I'll worry about. This would be one of those situations. There's certainly nothing wrong with a properly-made splice, but I would always worry about it. Therefore my advice is: "Just buy new wire."
 
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