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  #11  
Old 04-19-2011, 07:21 PM
aerhed aerhed is offline
 
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Location: Big Sandy, WY
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Jeff, thanks for the pic.
Troy, yes I have the spacers. The head of the socket bolts sits about 1/4? inside the fairing. I solved the hand towbar thing today like this.

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  #12  
Old 04-19-2011, 07:47 PM
TSwezey TSwezey is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Vaughan View Post
Here is what I did. Have not tested it in big winds.


Mine melted for some reason! I had a screw cap on the end so you could tighten it and I had a little J that held the stick forward and kept the stick from moving side to side also.
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  #13  
Old 04-20-2011, 07:52 PM
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TroyBranch TroyBranch is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Calgary Alberta Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aerhed View Post
Jeff, thanks for the pic.
Troy, yes I have the spacers. The head of the socket bolts sits about 1/4? inside the fairing. I solved the hand towbar thing today like this.
I am trying to figure out why you need this attachment to the tow bar. Something is not right. Do you have a pic of your nose gear with the pant off?
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  #14  
Old 04-20-2011, 08:43 PM
aerhed aerhed is offline
 
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PHP Code:
I am trying to figure out why you need this attachment to the tow bar. Something is not right. Do you have a pic of your nose gear with the pant off?
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No pic handy, but like I said before the tip of the socket bolt is just below the surface of the hole. What it is, is that the cups on the towbar are short and they don't bottom against the fork. That lets the arms of the towbar scrape the sides of the fairing. Bogert makes different models of bars and this one must just be wrong.
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  #15  
Old 05-15-2011, 07:21 PM
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TroyBranch TroyBranch is offline
 
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Default Finaly pics of Aileron and Rudder lock

Here is a shot of my aileron gust lock that works very well. I put one on each aileron. Aluminum, dowl, a little bungy and you are set. There is no way it will come off in the wind. It is important to have one on each aileron as the control system will still take a beating otherwise. Two also puts less load on the lock.

Looking from the top.

Trailing end view.

Looking through the hinge.




New rudder lock. I just made this so I can now have the rudder aligned with the vertical stab so I can still put the airgizmo gust lock on the outside. The purchased internal lock made the rudder have an offset. I now had dual reduntancy for ever control surface. Might seem over bored, but when you get half of your gust locks blown off in strong winds, you may think the same.
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  #16  
Old 05-15-2011, 10:17 PM
paul330 paul330 is offline
 
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Location: Mpumalanga, South Africa
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Nice ideas - I'll definitely steal them!

Just a thought. Looking at the last photo, would it be possible to fit a cross piece so it's braced both ways and fix it to the control column as well? That would give just one lock which would secure all three axes.
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  #17  
Old 05-16-2011, 04:44 AM
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pierre smith pierre smith is offline
 
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Location: Louisville, Ga
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Default There's a better rudder stop

Seems that quite a few -10's shear the wimpy little rudder stops from Van's, including mine, so we came up with this:



Actually, we copied it and I cut it out of 1/2" thick UHMW and belt sanded it thinner, to fit between the upper and lower hinge brackets, then held it in place with two AN-3 bolts that go through both hinge brackets...much tougher. It is a one-piece, U-shaped bracket and clears the hinge on the rudder.

Best,
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  #18  
Old 05-16-2011, 06:43 AM
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TroyBranch TroyBranch is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paul330 View Post
Nice ideas - I'll definitely steal them!

Just a thought. Looking at the last photo, would it be possible to fit a cross piece so it's braced both ways and fix it to the control column as well? That would give just one lock which would secure all three axes.
With the stick in the forward position that should work. It does add to the possibility of knocking the lock out of place. For quick stops it would be better than nothing but I would not leave it that way over night. The other issue is the control system is still taking the load.

As for beefing up the rudder stop. Just imagine how much how much load it must take to brake the original. The rudder is really getting bounced around in the wind. I hope with my plan, the rudder will never touch the stop.
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SuperSTOL Built and Sold
RV9 Built and Sold
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  #19  
Old 05-16-2011, 08:26 AM
paul330 paul330 is offline
 
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Hmmm. So why not fit a similar lock as on the ailerons to the elevators and rudder? OK, you can't reach the top of the rudder without some effort, but would not one bracket on the bottom secure it effectively?
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  #20  
Old 05-16-2011, 08:58 AM
Strasnuts Strasnuts is offline
 
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Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
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Default Rudder stops

I made my rudder stop out of one piece instead of two. It would have to shear five to six rivets to break instead of two to three. Easy to fab too.
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